The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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ToxicBunny said:
They normally would be, but you clearly have a substrate issue so I would fill everywhere and anywhere that looks suspect.
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What's that ? To me it seems the pervious paintjob was just done schit and cheap. (100% sure, it's a mine house with contractors doing kak jobs).
 
HunterNW said:
What's that ? To me it seems the pervious paintjob was just done schit and cheap. (100% sure, it's a mine house with contractors doing kak jobs).
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Substrate being the underlying plaster...

I would almost be saying that it looks like you may have a damp issue. So try find the actual cause of the paint peeling before you spend boat loads of money repainting, because if there is an issue, the problem will just return in short order.
 
ToxicBunny said:
Substrate being the underlying plaster...

I would almost be saying that it looks like you may have a damp issue. So try find the actual cause of the paint peeling before you spend boat loads of money repainting, because if there is an issue, the problem will just return in short order.
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I have the same problem throughout the house, paint peeling off at random areas. Areas where there's no way of being a damp problem. It's Rustenburg - Things crack of heat :ROFL:
 
HunterNW said:
I have the same problem throughout the house, paint peeling off at random areas. Areas where there's no way of being a damp problem. It's Rustenburg - Things crack of heat :ROFL:
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You would be surprised about the damp aspect... rising damp is a problem...

But it might also just have been a problem with the walls being painted too soon after plastering so it locked inthe existing moisture in the plaster... so if you strip the walls and then leave them exposed for a week it might solve that problem
 
Yes try and find out what is causing the paint to flake off. Rising damp? Worse near the bottom of the wall? Any sign of a leaking roof? water entering the wall at the top? Is there a visible damp coarse layer?
Is the soil level outside the wall higher than the floor level? If so, water is entering the wall from outside and the new paint will eventually also come off. Fix that before you go further, or, accept that you will have to redo the painting in the future.

Was the surface powdery when you started cleaning it up? Fine hair cracks in plaster can be painted over after filling in any bad ones as already suggested.

If you decide to go ahead with the painting, remove as much as possible of the loose stuff and powder, do what other have already said you should do and then paint on the primer, more than one coat and very important allow to dry properly between coats. Don't be in a hurry even if SWAMBO puts plenty of pressure on you.
 
WAslayer said:
What are you trying to achieve..?

If you are looking to clamp temporarily, to glue something etc, yes:

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Went ahead with this - did the job well enough... :thumbsup:
 
Going to be installing a freestanding closed combustian fireplace - should I DIY or do get someone to do it? Apparently it'll be about R3k installation.

Only part I'm uncomfortable with is the core drilling machine :D
 
What drilling will you be doing?

When I did my closed combustion it was suggested that its best to keep as much of the chimney/flue etc. exposed inside the house so as to generate additional heat.
 
Arzy said:
What drilling will you be doing?

When I did my closed combustion it was suggested that its best to keep as much of the chimney/flue etc. exposed inside the house so as to generate additional heat.
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Its going to go out the top of the wall - flat roof house, won't be able to go through the ceiling/roof
 
xrapidx said:
Its going to go out the top of the wall - flat roof house, won't be able to go through the ceiling/roof
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Arzy said:
What drilling will you be doing?

When I did my closed combustion it was suggested that its best to keep as much of the chimney/flue etc. exposed inside the house so as to generate additional heat.
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I want to do the same just not sure how.

I currently have an old school freestanding triangle shaped fire place in a double volume.

So I would need to remove the old square flue and replace with new round flue. Not sure if it will through the same opening.

Also need scaffolding or very tall stable ladders to get to the soffit.

Which stove did you get?
 
xrapidx said:
Going to be installing a freestanding closed combustian fireplace - should I DIY or do get someone to do it? Apparently it'll be about R3k installation.

Only part I'm uncomfortable with is the core drilling machine :D
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You can rent a core drill and its not difficult to operate. Its basically just an oversized hole saw.
There are a bunch of videos on youtube that show how to use the diamond core bits.
I used one to drill a hole for an in-wall extractor a few years back.
 
Yeah, they're relatively easy to use actually....

Slow and steady is the name of the game with those things...
 
alqassam said:
I want to do the same just not sure how.

I currently have an old school freestanding triangle shaped fire place in a double volume.

So I would need to remove the old square flue and replace with new round flue. Not sure if it will through the same opening.

Also need scaffolding or very tall stable ladders to get to the soffit.

Which stove did you get?
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Still deciding - we looked at this one: https://eurofireplaces.co.za/modena lux red.html

Wife wants to look at one or two other places before deciding. I still need to remove a bar and prep the room - so aim is middle of May.

Rocket-Boy said:
You can rent a core drill and its not difficult to operate. Its basically just an oversized hole saw.
There are a bunch of videos on youtube that show how to use the diamond core bits.
I used one to drill a hole for an in-wall extractor a few years back.
Click to expand...

That would be the plan - I'll need to offset the cost of rental, and time it'll take to do the install myself vs paying the fee.
 
xrapidx said:
Still deciding - we looked at this one: https://eurofireplaces.co.za/modena lux red.html

Wife wants to look at one or two other places before deciding. I still need to remove a bar and prep the room - so aim is middle of May.



That would be the plan - I'll need to offset the cost of rental, and time it'll take to do the install myself vs paying the fee.
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You said R3k for the install fee?

Granted, you live in CPT so earn a stupid salary :P ... so if you factor in your time to do the install, I would say R3k is actually probably a bargain.
 
I used core drills to make holes for ALL the new pipes installed when we renovated my daughter's kitchen. Makes for a very neat installation, with the hole placement precisely where needed, and even at an angle for the drain pipes. I used core drills available and a homemade jig to anchor the drill setup to the wall and hold it stable. Obviously, for larger diameters, a proper core drill would be better. You can get core drills easily up to about 60 mm in dia. Allow yourself 5-10 mm play if you are worried about having problems. We went for a very tight fit, and though it posed challenges, we were able to get away with it. The smaller the pipe diameter you are catering for, the less leeway you require. We even did the same with the tiling. Fine Diamond core drills were used to cut the tiles to exactly fit the pipes with 10 mm play in the diameter. most of the tiles were fitted before the fittings were installed as well and only one tile had to be split to allow installation.
Yes, I had to do that all myself. The professional tilers looked on in amazement and clearly could not be bothered because the work was finicky and required some very careful measurements.
 
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