The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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TedLasso said:
So a dumb question.

I am bit immobilised at the moment but was hearing crazy things when the pool pump was running over the last few days. I went to wier and saw that the pool lost 3-5cm of water since the last time I looked at it. Ironically, I had to replace the weir cap as it was cracked .

I’ve looked at the solar heating , the pump and weir can can’t seem to see anything leaking. I can’t see if the it’s going to the backwash as the overflow goes straight into sewer (don’t ask - it’s the only way to do it considering elevation / gradient of property ).

Can’t see what’s happening in the pool as it is covered and I can’t remove it.

Could the pump selector (backwash / filter/circulate) have given up the ghost? I’ve been here for 5 years now, and have never changed it. Just wondering if I can solve it cheaply first before calling a professional.
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I would look at replacing the spider gasket in the pump selector first. R120 and very easy to DIY.

We had the same problem. Losing water while pump was running. Turns out spider gasket was worn and not seated correctly anymore. So steadily lost water down the waste pipe while pump was running on filter.
 
Any recommendations for a (reputable) electrician in Cape Town Southern Suburbs? My earth leakage is tripping, and I've managed to isolate it to a plug circuit in the kitchen, but it keeps tripping even when everything on that circuit is switched off/unplugged.
 
ForgetfulLegend20244 said:
Any recommendations for a (reputable) electrician in Cape Town Southern Suburbs? My earth leakage is tripping, and I've managed to isolate it to a plug circuit in the kitchen, but it keeps tripping even when everything on that circuit is switched off/unplugged.
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Turn the plug off at the DB. Open the plug and just look for the basics, like that there isn't a loose wire. It might not be loose but have one of the strands standing out touching something else.

You did most of the work already by isolating it down to a single plug....thats the most of the job the electrician usually does.
 
Tinuva said:
Turn the plug off at the DB. Open the plug and just look for the basics, like that there isn't a loose wire. It might not be loose but have one of the strands standing out touching something else.

You did most of the work already by isolating it down to a single plug....thats the most of the job the electrician usually does.
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Thanks. It's a plug circuit, so 3 separate double plug sockets on it. But it still trips when all sockets are switched off/all appliances unplugged, I'll double confirm that though.

I found an electrician via the FNB app. Sounds like a decent guy. Suggested I unplug everything in the house and then test in case the circuit extends beyond the kitchen. If it still does, then he'll come out to check. He doesn't want to charge for callout for what could be a 5 minute job.
 
ForgetfulLegend20244 said:
Any recommendations for a (reputable) electrician in Cape Town Southern Suburbs? My earth leakage is tripping, and I've managed to isolate it to a plug circuit in the kitchen, but it keeps tripping even when everything on that circuit is switched off/unplugged.
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I use Teevolt for all my electrical work. I've got a great relationship with them and they're affordable as well.
 
ElixirCoder said:
I use Teevolt for all my electrical work. I've got a great relationship with them and they're affordable as well.
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Used SWAT electrical a couple times, based in Plumstead / Wynberg very quick to assist and rates aren’t too bad.

Sounds like a loose, damaged wire somewhere.
 
I am starting a bathroom renovation.
The bath I have is a cast iron bath, there is nothing wrong with it other than the fact that its green.
Should I re-enamel it or buy a new bath?

The bath I would buy costs about R3500 for an acrylic bath and re-enameling this one will come in at about R2000.

It would be a no brainer to save the R1500 except im not sure about the hardiness of the enamels they use. Its obviously not as hardy as the baked on enamel. From what I've read its guaranteed for 5 years, but that's short in the lifespan of a bath. I would expect a lifetime guarantee where they control every aspect of the installation, similar to auto repair centers. I'm not even sure if they can change the colour of a bath tho.

Anyone have experience with re-enameling?
 
ForgetfulLegend20244 said:
Any recommendations for a (reputable) electrician in Cape Town Southern Suburbs? My earth leakage is tripping, and I've managed to isolate it to a plug circuit in the kitchen, but it keeps tripping even when everything on that circuit is switched off/unplugged.
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Thanks for all the replies. Some proper troubleshooting was done and it turns out to be the washing machine. Hopefully it's not busted and can be easily fixed...
 
Mars said:
I am starting a bathroom renovation.
The bath I have is a cast iron bath, there is nothing wrong with it other than the fact that its green.
Should I re-enamel it or buy a new bath?

The bath I would buy costs about R3500 for an acrylic bath and re-enameling this one will come in at about R2000.

It would be a no brainer to save the R1500 except im not sure about the hardiness of the enamels they use. Its obviously not as hardy as the baked on enamel. From what I've read its guaranteed for 5 years, but that's short in the lifespan of a bath. I would expect a lifetime guarantee where they control every aspect of the installation, similar to auto repair centers. I'm not even sure if they can change the colour of a bath tho.

Anyone have experience with re-enameling?
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Bear in mind though, acrylic baths scratch and chip very easily and I expect the life of a an acrylic bath to also be about 5 years before it no longer looks good and scratched and chipped up if it's not meticulously maintained and carefully cleaned.. even something like handy Andy and it's micro crystal something or other will scratch the surface..
 
WAslayer said:
Bear in mind though, acrylic baths scratch and chip very easily and I expect the life of a an acrylic bath to also be about 5 years before it no longer looks good and scratched and chipped up if it's not meticulously maintained and carefully cleaned.. even something like handy Andy and it's micro crystal something or other will scratch the surface..
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We were told never ever to use Handy Andy on our acrylic bathroom fittings.
 
Looking to get an irrigation system installed in the near future. Any recommendations - maybe DIY? Looking at make it smart too and integrate it into my Home Assistant setup.
 
Priapus said:
Looking to get an irrigation system installed in the near future. Any recommendations - maybe DIY? Looking at make it smart too and integrate it into my Home Assistant setup.
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You have a few options. Pretty much your needs checklist is: controller (smart controllers exist from most major players), manifold, solenoids, piping, connectors, adaptors and sprinklers.

Draw up a plan on paper beforehand and check the specs for sprinklers to work out where you need to place them.
 
ElixirCoder said:
You have a few options. Pretty much your needs checklist is: controller (smart controllers exist from most major players), manifold, solenoids, piping, connectors, adaptors and sprinklers.

Draw up a plan on paper beforehand and check the specs for sprinklers to work out where you need to place them.
Click to expand...

I'll assume the controller is the most expensive bit here?
 
So what's the best order of operations when doing a bathroom. I would like to tile everything before I re-install the bath and the new basin, but people I'm talking to say that tiling should be done after.

So my plan is this:
Demo (in progress)
Re route pipes and waste
Build the new support wall for the bath
Tile everything
Install the bath
Install basin unit and basin.

Why would I tile after?
 
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Mars said:
So what's the best order of operations when doing a bathroom. I would like to tile everything before I re-install the bath and the new basin, but people I'm talking to saybthat tiling should be done after.

So my plan is this:
Demo (in progress)
Re route pipes and waste
Build the new support wall for the bath
Tile everything
Install the bath
Install basin unit and basin.

Why would I tile after?
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Tile before is fine, just make sure that, if the bath will then be on top of the tiles, that the tiles there have no gaps in the adhesive.. if there are gaps, there is a chance a tile can crack with the weight of the bath..

Technically the load should be spread across all tiles but, freaky things tend to happen when you least expect it..
 
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