The Home Improvements Thread (2)

[ElixirCoder]

Looking for recommendations in CT (Edgemead) for reputable companies for:
1. New kitchen (not a huge one). Budget R75k or so. More or less know what we want but would be good to get plans done so long.
2. Replace wooden old wooden windows with aluminium (probably 8 or so)

For the wooden windows replacement I can recommend Hughes Aluminium

 

[The_Mowgs]

If the neighbours kid jumps the wall he can jump a generally short pool fence, likewise the area he jumps over might be within the fenced area? its retarded, you cannot be held responsible for negligent actions of others. I would love to see a successful case outcome where someone had this happen and proceeded to take action on the pool owner.

I know of several succesful house sales concluding with no poolnet or fence in the last say 3 years.

If I find a random dead child in my pool Im chucking that thing back over the wall. I will never take responsibility for any unauthorized access.

 

[WAslayer]

Looking for recommendations in CT (Edgemead) for
2. Replace wooden old wooden windows with aluminium (probably 8 or so)

Anglo Windows..

 

[ToxicBunny]

Looking for recommendations in CT (Edgemead) for reputable companies for:
1. New kitchen (not a huge one). Budget R75k or so. More or less know what we want but would be good to get plans done so long.
2. Replace wooden old wooden windows with aluminium (probably 8 or so)

Honestly, after my experience (and I think many others) with most custom kitchen companies... Id suggest you build your own plans, and use the services of one of those prebuilt cupboard companies where everything can be order flatpack.

Keep the units as standardised as possible in terms of sizing.

 

[SAguy]

Honestly, after my experience (and I think many others) with most custom kitchen companies... Id suggest you build your own plans, and use the services of one of those prebuilt cupboard companies where everything can be order flatpack.

Keep the units as standardised as possible in terms of sizing.

Yip, I used diycupboards.com. They deliver pre-assembled cupboards (or flat packed) and you do the installation. Much better than all the shît for brains renovators.

 

[Off-The-Chart]

wanted to find out:

say you wanted to attach a lean-to to the house and you wanted to attach the roof to the house's, how would you go about doing the change in pitch of the tiles?

like what kind of flashing is needed or anything else

like I know if you did a valley you use a valley pan and thought maybe you used like under tile flashing, but don't think that would really stop water from going underneath the lean to roof tiles

 

[ToxicBunny]

wanted to find out:

say you wanted to attach a lean-to to the house and you wanted to attach the roof to the house's, how would you go about doing the change in pitch of the tiles?

like what kind of flashing is needed or anything else

like I know if you did a valley you use a valley pan and thought maybe you used like under tile flashing, but don't think that would really stop water from going underneath the lean to roof tiles

Any number of ways you could do this, but it depends on the style of the lean-to roof, and use of the space itself?

I think the easiest way would be to have the lean-to roof actually go under the existing roof so you don't impact the existing guttering and such.

 

[Mars]

So I have strugled with the waterproofing on one of my showers since the day we bought the house. I have repainted the passage wall about 10 times. Re-grouted, tried to reseal the pan, various stopgaps none of which worked.
Use the shower and less than a week later there is water damage on the passage wall again. I eventually banned the use of the shower completely.

Now that I'm ripping the shower out I know why:




I would really like to meet the builder that got up to this bullshttery. Almost 50mm of mortar in places and voids all the way to the brick. Can this be tile adhesive?
I'm going to have to chop all this shtt out I think.

 

[SAguy]

So I have strugled with the waterproofing on one of my showers since the day we bought the house. I have repainted the passage wall about 10 times. Re-grouted, tried to reseal the pan, various stopgaps none of which worked.
Use the shower and less than a week later there is water damage on the passage wall again. I eventually banned the use of the shower completely.

Now that I'm ripping the shower out I know why:

View attachment 1153102
View attachment 1153104

I would really like to meet the builder that got up to this bullshttery. Almost 50mm of mortar in places and voids all the way to the brick. Can this be tile adhesive?
I'm going to have to chop all this shtt out I think.

That's all tile adhesive yeah. You're going to have to chop that off.
Alternatively you could plaster over it with something like SkaCim added to the plaster, then tile over that.

Not that I know too much about these things though

 

[Steamy Tom]

I would skim it with a concrete/plaster mix, then you need to add waterproofing, you get a paintable type of concrete slurry, then tile.

 

[I.am.Sam]

I would skim it with a concrete/plaster mix, then you need to add waterproofing, you get a paintable type of concrete slurry, then tile.

someone told me to add this white powder to the cement

think its the same thing @SAguy is talking about

 

[ElixirCoder]

So I have strugled with the waterproofing on one of my showers since the day we bought the house. I have repainted the passage wall about 10 times. Re-grouted, tried to reseal the pan, various stopgaps none of which worked.
Use the shower and less than a week later there is water damage on the passage wall again. I eventually banned the use of the shower completely.

Now that I'm ripping the shower out I know why:

View attachment 1153102
View attachment 1153104

I would really like to meet the builder that got up to this bullshttery. Almost 50mm of mortar in places and voids all the way to the brick. Can this be tile adhesive?
I'm going to have to chop all this shtt out I think.

Apply some ABE Dura Flex before tiling and you're golden.

 

[ToxicBunny]

someone told me to add this white powder to the cement

think its the same thing @SAguy is talking about

Yeah, I'd go to the nines with the waterproofing...

Add a mixture to a cement slurry, then skim the wall with a waterproofing solution, then add about 990000 additional coats, then retile.

if you're going to chop out the adhesive, then when you replaster the wall, add the mixture to the plaster, then skim with an additional layer of something like , and keep going with that until you run out of patience or money
You could also get some membranes to embed in the plaster as an additional protection.

 

[Bikerbob]

So I have strugled with the waterproofing on one of my showers since the day we bought the house. I have repainted the passage wall about 10 times. Re-grouted, tried to reseal the pan, various stopgaps none of which worked.
Use the shower and less than a week later there is water damage on the passage wall again. I eventually banned the use of the shower completely.

Now that I'm ripping the shower out I know why:

View attachment 1153102
View attachment 1153104

I would really like to meet the builder that got up to this bullshttery. Almost 50mm of mortar in places and voids all the way to the brick. Can this be tile adhesive?
I'm going to have to chop all this shtt out I hink.

So I have strugled with the waterproofing on one of my showers since the day we bought the house. I have repainted the passage wall about 10 times. Re-grouted, tried to reseal the pan, various stopgaps none of which worked.
Use the shower and less than a week later there is water damage on the passage wall again. I eventually banned the use of the shower completely.

Now that I'm ripping the shower out I know why:

View attachment 1153102
View attachment 1153104

I would really like to meet the builder that got up to this bullshttery. Almost 50mm of mortar in places and voids all the way to the brick. Can this be tile adhesive?
I'm going to have to chop all this shtt out I think.

In the old days that was how tiles were laid. I would remove it all and plaster again, then waterproof with sika cemflex and membrane from the floor to wall. Similar to this,

 

[Off-The-Chart]

Any number of ways you could do this, but it depends on the style of the lean-to roof, and use of the space itself?

I think the easiest way would be to have the lean-to roof actually go under the existing roof so you don't impact the existing guttering and such.

not really many ways

as said, I do want it attached to the house's roof because if I was to go underneath the eaves, it would lose way too much height for the room

the one way I can think of is going metal roof and then just pushing it in quite a few cm underneath the main tile and then doing some IBR flashing with some waterproofing

no idea how to do tile-to-tile change in pitch

 

[Mars]

I'm not putting a shower there again. Its going to be cupboards. I'm installing a shower/bath combo on the other side of the room.

 

[ToxicBunny]

not really many ways

as said, I do want it attached to the house's roof because if I was to go underneath the eaves, it would lose way too much height for the room

the one way I can think of is going metal roof and then just pushing it in quite a few cm underneath the main tile and then doing some IBR flashing with some waterproofing

no idea how to do tile-to-tile change in pitch

Even with that, there are still many ways you could do it tbh, and still not have a huge concern with the change in pitch. You would remove the guttering and have the IBR roof butt up underneath the tile, and then use flashing and silicone to seal the area where they meet. Or you could cut away the eaves back to the current exterior wall and then still do a similar thing with an IBR sheeting.

Depending on your roof tile type, changing the pitch could be a relatively simple thing, but most tiled roofs have a fairly "steep" minimum pitch requirement and if you are concerned about head height in the lean-to then it wouldn't work anyway.

Your biggest "issue" is going to be how to get rid of the rain water after you've done the work and sealed everything, you will need to make sure your new gutters and drainage is up to the task.

 

[ToxicBunny]

I'm not putting a shower there again. Its going to be cupboards. I'm installing a shower/bath combo on the other side of the room.

Then you are going to need to chop out the adhesive, and then leave the wall to dry for as long as absolutely possible.
You may need to do a similar thing on the other side of the wall as well to be sure to get rid of any of the damp problems.

I would still use a water proofing admixture in the new plaster though, just as a safety measure.

 

[I.am.Sam]

I'm not putting a shower there again. Its going to be cupboards. I'm installing a shower/bath combo on the other side of the room.

so the other wall will have a leak

 

[howardb]

Quick question: was at Leroy Merlin to get a replacement analogue pool timer. Saw the CBI Astute smart controller WiFi timers and they seem to have a 30A resistive and 10A inductive load rating - would these units work to replace an analogue pool pump timer, load wise?

From what I remember in school (many moons ago), a pool motor would be inductive, right, so the 10A should be fine?