Awesome, I'll have a lookScreen that brass cap off. The lever then comes off. There is a small washer behind that. It probably cost 20 cents...
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Awesome, I'll have a lookScreen that brass cap off. The lever then comes off. There is a small washer behind that. It probably cost 20 cents...
Awesome, I'll have a look
100%.. Already in the garage waiting to be put on the wall.IF you use key coat base coat on the wall you dont need to chip
Unlikely you ever will get rid of the staining.. looks like a good amount of time that section was exposed to the elements, so the wood there is pretty much dyed now..How do I fix these type of dark patches ? Sanding is done properly and then 2 coats of meranti varnish with meranti dye applied already.
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Bottom of the garage door is worse (single coat done though)
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Thanks. I was wondering if there is a paint that will hide those areas. I have tried wooddoc sealer + meranti dye so far.Unlikely you ever will get rid of the staining.. looks like a good amount of time that section was exposed to the elements, so the wood there is pretty much dyed now..
eh, used incorrect term. It is wooddoc sealer and I mixed it with meranti dye as suggested by Mica guy. When does one apply Linseed oil? Before or after sealer or instead of sealer?Eww varnish...
Linseed oil FTW!
Paint will hide those areas, because paint ends up being a new layer on top of the existing surface..Thanks. I was wondering if there is a paint that will hide those areas. I have tried wooddoc sealer + meranti dye so far.
That's why Frank and I sometimes sit and paint rocks, giving them a new layer of life.Paint will hide those areas, because paint ends up being a new layer on top of the existing surface..
ok, it doesn't look as bad as looks unless you are very close and most garages in our complexes are like that and as per rules, most take care of their own garage doors by treatment every 2 years or so. I suppose that wooden garage doors need to be replaced every after X years.Paint will hide those areas, because paint ends up being a new layer on top of the existing surface..
Not a requirement in Johannesburg, even if it was, it is easily something paid off like other CoCsOversight perhaps on the part of the attorneys..? It seems strange that you are asked for CoC for everything else except plumbing..
If you are in Cape Town, your carport is going to need plans, irrespective of whether it's closed off or not..Hi guys, I bought a house and the double garage was converted to a flatlet. Anyone have any ideas on putting a double carport next to the old "garage" and closing it off on the sides and putting an automated garage door on? I want to avoid going to council to put in plans, how has anyone done something similar? Feasible to put up nutec weatherboards?
Thanks @WAslayerIf you are in Cape Town, your carport is going to need plans, irrespective of whether it's closed off or not..
You can close it off any number of ways:
Nutec boards, vibracrete slabs, corrugated sheeting.. it's just going to be a matter of ensuring whatever cladding you use, has the right supporting structure..
Why are freestanding house dwellers not allowed to answer..? Your question has got nothing to do with how large your erf is..So, the question is for townhouse/complex/cluster dwellers and not for people who stay in houses on a 2000 sq.m land .
I need to clear garage completely so that we can do proper tiling & cupboards all around but don't want to clutter patio/other room in house. Is it best to keep the stuff in the garden on tarpauline and then cover it till job is done?
Or, best to rent a storage unit for a month even if job will probably be done in under 6-8 days ?
Is the stuff you need to store valuable or susceptible to moisture damage? If yea, rent a unit.So, the question is for townhouse/complex/cluster dwellers and not for people who stay in houses on a 2000 sq.m land .
I need to clear garage completely so that we can do proper tiling & cupboards all around but don't want to clutter patio/other room in house. Is it best to keep the stuff in the garden on tarpauline and then cover it till job is done?
Or, best to rent a storage unit for a month even if job will probably be done in under 6-8 days ?
LOL - I hear what you say but tiler/carpenter I have is generally accurate within 2 days of his original estimate. At least so far.Is the stuff you need to store valuable or susceptible to moisture damage? If yea, rent a unit.
Also, no construction job ever takes what you think it will. 6 - 8 days is probably more like 3 - 4 weeks