8mm should be fine. 10mm is probably better. Just make sure you pre-drill the dowel before putting the screw in (like a 1.5 - 2mm bit should be fine). Splitting shouldn't be a problem because the wood of the door will provide quite a lot of support (unless there's been a cock-up with the install and one of the screws is just going through the hardboard and not into the lock block, this is pretty unlikely though).
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The Home Improvements Thread (2)
- Thread starter TedLasso
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newby_investor
Executive Member
I'm probably going to need to find a corresponding wood drill bit, I don't think I have one that big.
HSS / steel bits work fine in wood as well. Don't specifically need a brad point bit.
If the plug is reversible, why would it matter?How are you supposed to know what's live and neutral on these plugs?
/facepalm. It's been a long day doing the stuff I've been promising for the last 6 years
PhireSide
Honorary Master
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Got the new garage door installed with help from the wife and inlaws. I can say, with absolute certainty, that I would rather crawl naked through a burning acacia bush than go through this experience ever again.
The old one was well and truly tattered, and was suffering from a (poorly done) repaint done prior to us living here
The old one was well and truly tattered, and was suffering from a (poorly done) repaint done prior to us living here
Has anyone got their balcony sealed with polyurethane sealer? I was looking at ripping up the tiles and starting from scratch, but I have seen some services where they put polyurethane over the tiles to completely seal it.
Haven’t seen that, I had to recently rip out tiles and seal.
KOPITE
Executive Member
Guys i need some guidance.
I want to remove the wall between the kitchen and the lounge and only leave the top section about 30/50cm on top. This is for aesthetic looks and also not to disturb the ceiling cornice and save money.
I am not sure if it's low bearing or not, still need to check. Would i require plans for partial removal of the wall and if it's not low bearing, can i remove it myself or get someone to remove it and even up and plaster the side walls and floor.
How much does a structural engineer cost just to confirm low bearing or not and for their advice. What if i opening the corners with a door sized opening, will i still require plans?
Would appreciate your advice
I want to remove the wall between the kitchen and the lounge and only leave the top section about 30/50cm on top. This is for aesthetic looks and also not to disturb the ceiling cornice and save money.
I am not sure if it's low bearing or not, still need to check. Would i require plans for partial removal of the wall and if it's not low bearing, can i remove it myself or get someone to remove it and even up and plaster the side walls and floor.
How much does a structural engineer cost just to confirm low bearing or not and for their advice. What if i opening the corners with a door sized opening, will i still require plans?
Would appreciate your advice
I suspect your insurance would require some form of engineering sign-off on such alterations. Not sure what the council requirement is. But bricks don't hold themselves up so you would need some form of beam below them.
furpile
Expert Member
What is going to support the few top rows of bricks hanging from the ceiling? If you want to do this you wil likely need to install beams below this, then it will be easier and cheaper to just remove completely. If it is load bearing definitely will need beams.
Call local architects and ask for advise regarding plans etc. They might even come out and give a free quote for the work or can recommend an engineer to talk to.
KOPITE
Executive Member
I was thinking of a lintel across, it's about 3m long. i guess an architect will confirm everything and cost involved. Otherwise opening a door sized wall on one side or both sides seems less work.
Can anyone give recommendations on architects and structural engineers in the Cape Town area that does not cost and arm and a leg. what is the costs nowadays
Can anyone give recommendations on architects and structural engineers in the Cape Town area that does not cost and arm and a leg. what is the costs nowadays
Every waterproofer I phone is booked up until August-September. Is there any clear product I can buy from the hardware to paint on a balcony/cement area as a temporary stopgap while I wait for a professional to come and repair?
WAslayer
Honorary Master
They are designed or meant to be installed flush with the surrounding surface.. there is no need for them to be above ground level..
I posted waaay back about mine (oct 2020) being broken - I'm now getting grief because they're under grass... I ideally don't want them grass level - or above grass... I suppose I could cover them in fake grass if its "illegal", but I can't seem to find anything that'd suggest it is.
WAslayer
Honorary Master
Put them below grass level, but pour a bit of a concrete casing for them instead.. that will prevent issues because they are under grass and you can cut little squares of fake grass to cover them and the concrete bits up..
Generally speaking if it's a single brick wall it should not be load bearing. Double walls are usually load bearing.
Pm for architect info if still required.
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