The Home Improvements Thread (2)

Status
Not open for further replies.
W@P said:
Those shoes may work if you have a small enough lawn or you have an engineer who can walk around for an hour or two.

The drum spike rollers make bigger holes. Better penetration.
View attachment 1590306

Thankyou very much.
Click to expand...
I normally hire a drum spike roller. You fill it with water for the weight.
 
  • Like
Reactions: W@P
marbro said:
I think i just came...

Thank you!!! I will def be doing this, I see its quite flat too, did you do that, or was it like that when you moved in?

Gonna be a bit of work, but its not as big as your yard
Click to expand...
This is the 3rd year I am leveling a bit with lawn dressing so it's pretty flat yes. Was a lot more bumpy.
That cylinder mower cuts like a dream. Just had the bottom blade replaced and the cylinder blades backlapped. It cuts paper into pieces now.

Cutting with something like that gives a whole new look and feel to the grass compared to a normal mower. And also who doesn't like stripes on their lawn? :ROFL:
 
Those dead patches could also be worms. If your lawn is level you can try flooding a patch right next to a dead patch with water. I mean a GOOD flooding! If there are worms they'll come up for air soon enough.
 
Tabac said:
Me. Anything that displays time is set correctly and stay that way.
Click to expand...
Having an inverter , helps massively on this front. The only clock we stopped caring about is the oven, cos it's on non-essential
 
TedLasso said:
Having an inverter , helps massively on this front. The only clock we stopped caring about is the oven, cos it's on non-essential
Click to expand...
I use the clock on the oven to tell me whether there was load shedding during the night.
 
The_MAC said:
Underfloor heating.

I see the cables running into the enclosure, can you not trace them?
Click to expand...
No underfloor heating, unless it has been pulled before we bought the house.

We recently moved in, so I need to get up in the roof and follow the cables.
 
shai_za said:
View attachment 1589292

make sure your system has a non return valve - i had same issue when mine was installed
Click to expand...
The plumber just left, replaced a non-return valve which we saw was not working correctly after removing it and he put another one further up. Hope that fixes the issue, will see tonight :fingers-crossed:

Btw, this was with Blue Line plumbing. Very happy with them, they were literally the only place out of 10 that I contacted that bothered coming through, and the guy was super friendly and quick.
 
DrJohnZoidberg said:
The plumber just left, replaced a non-return valve which we saw was not working correctly after removing it and he put another one further up. Hope that fixes the issue, will see tonight :fingers-crossed:

Btw, this was with Blue Line plumbing. Very happy with them, they were literally the only place out of 10 that I contacted that bothered coming through, and the guy was super friendly and quick.
Click to expand...
I hate plumbers. None of them want to come out for easy tiny jobs if you call direct.

But man, let your building insurance call them up, they are there within 2 hours.
Most building insurance do give you 3 free call-outs a year (shared between plumbing and electrical) that is not a claim (so doesn't count against you), but just for a simple job. Covers call-out fee and the first hour. Then you only pay the parts and extra hours.
 
Tinuva said:
I hate plumbers. None of them want to come out for easy tiny jobs if you call direct.

But man, let your building insurance call them up, they are there within 2 hours.
Most building insurance do give you 3 free call-outs a year (shared between plumbing and electrical) that is not a claim (so doesn't count against you), but just for a simple job. Covers call-out fee and the first hour. Then you only pay the parts and extra hours.
Click to expand...
I've used all mine up for the year.
Had to replace a blown isolator switch in the roof.
Then 2 weeks later my element gave up and I had to have that replaced.
I only paid for parts on both times.
Now I just need my plumbing to remain calm for the remainder of this year.
 
DrJohnZoidberg said:
The plumber just left, replaced a non-return valve which we saw was not working correctly after removing it and he put another one further up. Hope that fixes the issue, will see tonight :fingers-crossed:

Btw, this was with Blue Line plumbing. Very happy with them, they were literally the only place out of 10 that I contacted that bothered coming through, and the guy was super friendly and quick.
Click to expand...
Yay, this was indeed the issue. Geyser is now keeping its heat as expected. I will no longer need to put the element on in the morning now if I have it up to temp the previous evening.

1695473185667.png
 
Does anyone have a recommendation for a drip edge solution for my garage door opening? There is no protection from the rain and all the water that runs down the wall rolls under the opening and sits on the top of the wall/lintel area.

I've noticed that on the inside of the garage I can actually see the bricks soaking up that moisture and they're noticable damp. The exterior wall is plastered and painted but I'm assuming if the water just sits there long enough it eventually just gets soaked up.
 
DrJohnZoidberg said:
Does anyone have a recommendation for a drip edge solution for my garage door opening? There is no protection from the rain and all the water that runs down the wall rolls under the opening and sits on the top of the wall/lintel area.

I've noticed that on the inside of the garage I can actually see the bricks soaking up that moisture and they're noticable damp. The exterior wall is plastered and painted but I'm assuming if the water just sits there long enough it eventually just gets soaked up.
Click to expand...
Is it coming underneath the door?

If so I'm sure I've seen something random on Facebook recently in relation to that, sort of a collapsible rubber strip that seals the bottom of the door when it closes.
 
ToxicBunny said:
Is it coming underneath the door?

If so I'm sure I've seen something random on Facebook recently in relation to that, sort of a collapsible rubber strip that seals the bottom of the door when it closes.
Click to expand...
The lintel is on the top of the opening :p
 
DrJohnZoidberg said:
Does anyone have a recommendation for a drip edge solution for my garage door opening? There is no protection from the rain and all the water that runs down the wall rolls under the opening and sits on the top of the wall/lintel area.

I've noticed that on the inside of the garage I can actually see the bricks soaking up that moisture and they're noticable damp. The exterior wall is plastered and painted but I'm assuming if the water just sits there long enough it eventually just gets soaked up.
Click to expand...

A drip flashing would probably work, mount it underneath the lintel and bend an angle into it slightly, some rubber stripping between the flashing and the lintel will keep anything that doesn't run off from going backward.

A cover flashing would also work if you cut it down
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X