The Home Improvements Thread (3)

Snyper564 said:
Got quite a few home renovations planned for the next 12 months.

Short term
- Update house plans.
- Replace old sliding doors with new stacking doors
- Replace megamaster braai with "brick" braai
- Install roof turbine on garage roof to aid cooling in garage where solar system is

In the next 12 months
- Build scullery area onto house
- Renovate kitchen

Gonna be a busy year ahead
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I'm also getting my metal braai removed and a brick one put in later this month.

Have you found somebody to do the work or you going to DIY it?
 
DrJohnZoidberg said:
I'm also getting my metal braai removed and a brick one put in later this month.

Have you found somebody to do the work or you going to DIY it?
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Our general builder will do it. Just looking for "inspiration" ideas.

Can get quite creative - just need to figure out what to do :P

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WAslayer said:
Pressure dropped to all hot water taps, it only drastically affects the kitchen mixer though.. it only became an issue after a burst pipe at some point, though that may just be coincidence and the issue is related to something else..
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I think I've cracked this case...
 
Mosgi said:
Took a solid beating tonight with the massive hailstorm in Midrand…

Seems almost every valley in the house got overwhelmed with the sheer extent of small hail’s then massive hail and rain that came down, because we had leaks galore on the second floor.

From the morning we will naturally have all trap doors and exterior doors open but need to find a way to dehydrate the roof to ceiling - it’s chromadek which I just got painted so need to see any damage it’s done to that.

But is there a place where I can hire an industrial widget that can help dry it all out? Especially since there’s insulation because it sort of feels like the perfect breeding ground for danger spores…
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Rent a dehumidifier.
 
Snyper564 said:
Thanks!

Thats what im looking for. Sick of the megamaster rusted nonsense. Nothing beats good ol brick!
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Yes, they are nice. Just a big open place to make fire.

You can always then drill some holes in the back wall at certain heights from the fireplace "floor" and stick a short piece of rebar in there with chemical anchor that protrudes about 100-150mm. Then you can have a custom rooster made with some "eyelet tubes" at the back/wall side of the rooster that you can slide the rooster onto the rebar and bob is your uncle.

Now you have a mounting system to put your rooster at different levels.

You can of course use an off-the-shelf rooster and modify it.
 
W@P said:
Yes, they are nice. Just a big open place to make fire.

You can always then drill some holes in the back wall at certain heights from the fireplace "floor" and stick a short piece of rebar in there with chemical anchor that protrudes about 100-150mm. Then you can have a custom rooster made with some "eyelet tubes" at the back/wall side of the rooster that you can slide the rooster onto the rebar and bob is your uncle.

Now you have a mounting system to put your rooster at different levels.

You can of course use an off-the-shelf rooster and modify it.
Click to expand...

Indeed can be as fancy as you want!
 
WAslayer said:
It's not the burst pipe, if that's what you are getting at.. pressure on the cold line is perfect, as before the pipe burst..
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There is one test left...

Disconnect hit pipe from geyser and to cold. If that doesn't fix it, start doing the same further down the hot pipe in 2 meter distances, until you find the difference. Boom, problem found.

Though I guess you wouldn't want to do that.
 
Tinuva said:
There is one test left...

Disconnect hit pipe from geyser and to cold. If that doesn't fix it, start doing the same further down the hot pipe in 2 meter distances, until you find the difference. Boom, problem found.

Though I guess you wouldn't want to do that.
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I really don't mean to be funny but I really can't understand what you mean
 
Steamy Tom said:
I really don't mean to be funny but I really can't understand what you mean
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Not sure I follow 100% either, but if I disconnect the hot line and jerry rig it into the cold to test, it would in theory tell me if the geyser is to blame, perhaps a faulty PRV..
 
WAslayer said:
Not sure I follow 100% either, but if I disconnect the hot line and jerry rig it into the cold to test, it would in theory tell me if the geyser is to blame, perhaps a faulty PRV..
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yeah that could work, would probably still be a bit hard to do. I dont think a PRV can fail in a way that makes output from the geyser poor, it would just either not release pressure or it would leak constantly

If it were me I would honestly start by the tap with the biggest problem. Does it have flex lines or is it hard plumbed? If it has a flex line, remove the flex line at the small shut off valve and attach a new one and test its flow/pressure into a bucket. If it is good or better than the tap, then you know its in the tap or the flex line (It is possible all taps got something in them, I know you its probably best to look for a single point of failure but this is an easy test)
Try blow through the flex line still attached to the tap (with the tap open on the hot all the way, is it easy or hard?

close to the tap it could be:
the shutoff valve
the flex line
the tap

lastly, the pipe that burst, what pipe was it? galvanised? a hot water pipe after the geyser? what did they replace the affected section with, copper? how did they connect the copper to the galvanised?

Sorry for the wall of text
 
Snyper564 said:
Stacking door ordered and hoping to be in before dec :)
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What was the ballpark price? Dimensions?

Those things can be temperamental with opening and closing properly. Make sure they do a good job on installation.
 
W@P said:
What was the ballpark price? Dimensions?

Those things can be temperamental with opening and closing properly. Make sure they do a good job on installation.
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There was a black friday special with Sequ-door 40% off till end of month. Managed to snag a removal and install for R24k

Sequ-door is apparently one of the better/best people in this game.

2.06x4.16 Custom made to fit space perfectly. 5 panel door. Not doing sliding gate which is an additional 9k. Area we live in is safe enough will fit one if needed in the future. Insurance confirmed it wasnt needed if you have armed response.

PG glass - stock standard door was that without any remove/install

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