The Home Improvements Thread (3)

Brawler said:
Before I go to builders and get their assistance and get sold a R3000 sander let me seek some advice here as it's probably straight forward.

This is my wooden garage door:
View attachment 1633869

As you can see after a rough winter and time (I've only owned the place for 2 years) it is due for some maintenance that I would like to do myself. I'd like to think I'm not an idiot and can do it myself but have not done any 'woodwork' since grade 9. To my eyes the wood still looks good but it needs to be saved now as another winter will do damage.

What will I need? Due to the large surface area I suppose I need a sander. Any recommendations? (cheaper the better)

Sand paper type?

Varnish type?

I guess the space in-between the slats needs to be done manually.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Do you have a compressor by any chance, if yes look at pneumatic sanders. You need to sand the varnish off and then reapply three or more layers while lightly sanding in-between. Have a look at Waksol/Waxsol F.
 
Brawler said:
Before I go to builders and get their assistance and get sold a R3000 sander let me seek some advice here as it's probably straight forward.

This is my wooden garage door:
View attachment 1633869

As you can see after a rough winter and time (I've only owned the place for 2 years) it is due for some maintenance that I would like to do myself. I'd like to think I'm not an idiot and can do it myself but have not done any 'woodwork' since grade 9. To my eyes the wood still looks good but it needs to be saved now as another winter will do damage.

What will I need? Due to the large surface area I suppose I need a sander. Any recommendations? (cheaper the better)

Sand paper type?

Varnish type?

I guess the space in-between the slats needs to be done manually.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
If you don't have access to a sander, or can't borrow one, I would go and get a cheapie from Hyperama or similar, just for this job. Should last the door sanding.
 
Brawler said:
Before I go to builders and get their assistance and get sold a R3000 sander let me seek some advice here as it's probably straight forward.

This is my wooden garage door:
View attachment 1633869

As you can see after a rough winter and time (I've only owned the place for 2 years) it is due for some maintenance that I would like to do myself. I'd like to think I'm not an idiot and can do it myself but have not done any 'woodwork' since grade 9. To my eyes the wood still looks good but it needs to be saved now as another winter will do damage.

What will I need? Due to the large surface area I suppose I need a sander. Any recommendations? (cheaper the better)

Sand paper type?

Varnish type?

I guess the space in-between the slats needs to be done manually.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Definitely get a sander.. if you don't plan on using it long term for other projects, get the cheapest you can find.. checkers hyper Schultz brand comes to mind here..

You would need 80grit sand paper to get the varnish off.. once varnish is off, sand with 120 and apply varnish, rightly sanding on between coats with 120grit again.. only sand once completely dry..

Good luck, sanding is an absolute terrible, nightmare job at the best of times.. sanding off varnish, that's a whole different level of terrible..
 
WAslayer said:
Definitely get a sander.. if you don't plan on using it long term for other projects, get the cheapest you can find.. checkers hyper Schultz brand comes to mind here..

You would need 80grit sand paper to get the varnish off.. once varnish is off, sand with 120 and apply varnish, rightly sanding on between coats with 120grit again.. only sand once completely dry..

Good luck, sanding is an absolute terrible, nightmare job at the best of times.. sanding off varnish, that's a whole different level of terrible..
Click to expand...
You could also look at your local cash converters. They often have half decent tools in stock.
 
Why sanding between coats? If you are out of the overcoating period you can just wash, dry and wipe down with turps and apply next coat.
 
Speedster said:
Our house has some old school terracotta floor tiles which we really don't love that much. We're thinking about replacing the flooring (most likely Rhodesian teak parquet), but my question is whether it's worth trying to remove the tiles without breaking them? Is there some form of resale value for used tiles, or do I just take a mini breaker/jackhammer to them
Click to expand...
Why do you think you'll lift them without breaking the?

Usually, in most cases, you break them when lifting them.
It also quicker if no care is taken...
 
Mannydefreitas said:
Why do you think you'll lift them without breaking the?

Usually, in most cases, you break them when lifting them.
It also quicker if no care is taken...
Click to expand...
Yeah, certainly much easier and quicker that way. Just wondering if it would be worth trying to save them. Doesn't seem so.
 
Brawler said:
Before I go to builders and get their assistance and get sold a R3000 sander let me seek some advice here as it's probably straight forward.

This is my wooden garage door:
View attachment 1633869

As you can see after a rough winter and time (I've only owned the place for 2 years) it is due for some maintenance that I would like to do myself. I'd like to think I'm not an idiot and can do it myself but have not done any 'woodwork' since grade 9. To my eyes the wood still looks good but it needs to be saved now as another winter will do damage.

What will I need? Due to the large surface area I suppose I need a sander. Any recommendations? (cheaper the better)

Sand paper type?

Varnish type?

I guess the space in-between the slats needs to be done manually.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
I had 3 Sanders, did a Job where we needed to remove the ceiling, expose the trusses and sand them.

By day 2 my guys had burnt out 2of the 3 Sanders.

I rushed out and bought 3 more.

The cheapest was Ryobi (a cheap brand), cheap line called Handy line.
Bought the HS 150 for R329 in NOV 2020.

Timber exposed to weather should not be varnished, it should be oiled.

Use something like Woodoc30.

But if it's been varnished previously you can't oil it unless you take all the varnish off.
 
Speedster said:
Yeah, certainly much easier and quicker that way. Just wondering if it would be worth trying to save them. Doesn't seem so.
Click to expand...
Nah, why bother, they're worth fokol.
I sometimes hire a small breaker, but the cost of the breaker isn't less than having 2 guys work an extra day.
But it saves time and transport...
 
WAslayer said:
What he probably means, and having used plascon in the past, it's overpriced for what you get..
Click to expand...
That I don't agree with at all! Paint is one of the things that you don't skimp on, unless you are paying the painters well below the going rate... Plascon has proven over and over again that it does not pay to go cheap, with many projects that I have done over many years.
 
deesef said:
That I don't agree with at all! Paint is one of the things that you don't skimp on, unless you are paying the painters well below the going rate... Plascon has proven over and over again that it does not pay to go cheap, with many projects that I have done over many years.
Click to expand...
I am glad you found happiness with plascon..

I cannot recommend it to anyone in good conscience.. we had to do 5 - 6 coats to get a wall white, using white paint, on a previously white wall.. that was an utter waste of money..
 
deesef said:
That I don't agree with at all! Paint is one of the things that you don't skimp on, unless you are paying the painters well below the going rate... Plascon has proven over and over again that it does not pay to go cheap, with many projects that I have done over many years.
Click to expand...
I agree. I've never had any issues with Plascon products. Served me well over the years.
 
WAslayer said:
I am glad you found happiness with plascon..

I cannot recommend it to anyone in good conscience.. we had to do 5 - 6 coats to get a wall white, using white paint, on a previously white wall.. that was an utter waste of money..
Click to expand...
What would you recommend as an alternative for bathroom ceiling?
 
Snyper564 said:
Decided to replace then remove then replace the thatch happening as we speak.

"After much contemplation and reflection I decided to just redo the thatch.

Dust etc is never an issue its cleaned twice a week by our domestic so thats never an issue, insurance prem doesnt change.


The structure is rock solid and at 13k vs 50kplus doesnt make sense at this moment.


If I decide to redo ill do it in years to come as this can be sorted in a few days. I have major renovations with home extension and kitchen overhaul so this will do and will do well till then."

View attachment 1633623

Also have some pest control peeps out next week for the spraying of some bugs then plans also being finalsed by end dec and then major work on house and kitchen kicks of end jan/feb
Click to expand...
Lapa thatched - another renovation quickly ticked off the list.

Before

1702742606868.png

After

1702742697069.png

Very happy - next up build the new braai!
 
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