Thermocouple connection

Mmm that seems like it might be the better option where did you get the barrel connector?

Also are you using the same PID? Just connect two of the cables?


Could this work?


That one comes with 3 cables. On the diagram it shows you how to connect it to the PID. you need to connect the 3 cables and then change it over to the RTD thermocouple in the settings.

I bought from NDE in cape town (https://www.nde.co.za/) to be exact https://www.nde.co.za/categories/bsp-fittings . just google BSP fittings and you should find a supplier in PTA. I built my entire system with a assortment of Barrel's and nipples.

I dont think what you linked will work. You need a RTD P100 with 3 wires. I dont know enough to know how you would hook it up with either 2 or 4 wires.
 
That one comes with 3 cables. On the diagram it shows you how to connect it to the PID. you need to connect the 3 cables and then change it over to the RTD thermocouple in the settings.

I bought from NDE in cape town (https://www.nde.co.za/) to be exact https://www.nde.co.za/categories/bsp-fittings . just google BSP fittings and you should find a supplier in PTA. I built my entire system with a assortment of Barrel's and nipples.

I dont think what you linked will work. You need a RTD P100 with 3 wires. I dont know enough to know how you would hook it up with either 2 or 4 wires.
No problem thanks will have a look, I thought the item I attached may work as the probe that came with it also has 2 cable but I too have limited/no knowledge :P
 
@Magnum could this linked probe from rs online work with my earlier linked PID?

I have zero knowledge here any guidance would be appreciated
Type K is Type K. You get 3. K, J and PT100. K and J is 2 wire probes and PT 100 is 3 Wire.

your PID should support K and PT100. check the Input probe types.

you just need the Braided Stainless Steel wire to connect from the Thermo couple to the PID. and it should be the Correct wire for the Probe. The resistance of the wire is internally compensated for in the PID Controller to give the correct Probe temp.

In a pinch guys have run normal CabTyre but I have always been called out to replace with correct wire as soon as Maintenance is possible.

NTC is something completely different. In stead of the Heated junction creating Voltage the NTC is a resistor.
 
Last edited:
Type K is Type K. You get 3. K, J and PT100. K and J is 2 wire probes and PT 100 is 3 Wire.

your PID should support K and PT100. check the Input probe types.

you just need the Braided Stainless Steel wire to connect from the Thermo couple to the PID. and it should be the Correct wire for the Probe. The resistance of the wire is internally compensated for in the PID Controller to give the correct Probe temp.

In a pinch guys have run normal CabTyre but I have always been called out to replace with correct wire as soon as Maintenance is possible.

NTC is something completely different. In stead of the Heated junction creating Voltage the NTC is a resistor.
Thank you, just to confirm it will not work
 
You can house it in something like this


Its out of stock but just google around or ask millside to bring it in next time they order.

Also pro tip buy extra the cheap chinese stuff dont last.
 
You can house it in something like this


Its out of stock but just google around or ask millside to bring it in next time they order.

Also pro tip buy extra the cheap chinese stuff dont last.
Great thanks!
 
@Jitters wouldnt this work too?

 
@Jitters wouldnt this work too?

That would work as well, Good find I completely missed it
 
are you planning to use a pump?
Yeah I currently use a 12v solar hot water pump for recirculation works with no issues, what would you recommend though?

I do this to ensure even temps throughout the mash
 
Yeah I currently use a 12v solar hot water pump for recirculation works with no issues, what would you recommend though?

I do this to ensure even temps throughout the mash
Ok if you are planning on recirc I wouldn't use the stubby. I built my system based of Bobby's design from brew hardware.


in his design the temp probe is in a T as you exit the kettle.

I suggest standardizing on 1/2" SS fittings so that all your connections are the same on your kettle. it also means you just need to buy 1 SS hole saw or step bit.

Something like this would probably work better.


the only down side of the configuration is that you cant really measure temperature unless the pump is running. so I added an extra port and temp probe directly to the kettle to get past this and now I can measure temp as I get the water up to mash temps.
 
Ok if you are planning on recirc I wouldn't use the stubby. I built my system based of Bobby's design from brew hardware.


in his design the temp probe is in a T as you exit the kettle.

I suggest standardizing on 1/2" SS fittings so that all your connections are the same on your kettle. it also means you just need to buy 1 SS hole saw or step bit.

Something like this would probably work better.


the only down side of the configuration is that you cant really measure temperature unless the pump is running. so I added an extra port and temp probe directly to the kettle to get past this and now I can measure temp as I get the water up to mash temps.
Sweet thanks will have a look. Just a question are you using a pump if so what?
 
Sweet thanks will have a look. Just a question are you using a pump if so what?
Yeah I use a dishwasher pump, wasn't worth it to be honest.

If I had to buy a new pump I would buy something like the following

you can get this cheaper at the importer, but it gives you a starting point on what to google for
https://beerguevara.com/product/electrical-pump-for-hot-liquids/

or for example something like this


just try and find one with one with an ss head. it will last longer.
 
Yeah I use a dishwasher pump, wasn't worth it to be honest.

If I had to buy a new pump I would buy something like the following

you can get this cheaper at the importer, but it gives you a starting point on what to google for
https://beerguevara.com/product/electrical-pump-for-hot-liquids/

or for example something like this


just try and find one with one with an ss head. it will last longer.
Ah perfect, thanks will do so. Was eyeing these. When mine gives up will move over to this.
 
@Jitters thanks so much for the info, busy building my panel now got this https://www.robotics.org.za/PT100-2M-1P

Works beautifully. Did you know that with RTD you can add up to 3 decimals on the PID ( i just use 1 tho i.e. 65.5)!

Wanted to calibrate it and when I tested this vs my theropro for smoking it was the same temp to the decimal
 
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X