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Wifi light switches

Dolby

Honorary Master
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
25,111
#41
Connecting the current switch in an OR configuration (or XOR) would mean the Sonoff would send the incorrect state to the server; telling you the light is on, when it's in fact off
What does that mean, specifically OR and XOR?
 

Honey Badger

Honorary Master
Joined
Apr 30, 2010
Messages
15,745
#42
What does that mean, specifically OR and XOR?
OR: if one switch is on, the current wall-light goes on. If you turn the Sonoff switch on, the light stays on. In other words, the light will be on if either of the switches are on.
XOR: Exclusive OR, is a more complex implementation. If either of the switches are on, the light will go on. If both are on, the light will go off. In other words, the light will only go on if the current state of the two switches are not the same.
 

Honey Badger

Honorary Master
Joined
Apr 30, 2010
Messages
15,745
#43
Is that not a bulb with a wifi radio (as an access point), rather than a light you can control with wifi?
They're selling a bulb as well as a bulb fitting with built in wifi. But neither of these will resolve Dolby's issue as now the guest won't be able to turn the light on or off at all :D
 

Dolby

Honorary Master
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
25,111
#44
This is close to a guest using it :

It's 'smart' at the start - and then operates as a traditional switch. Now, this is my Slampher - but I want the rest wired like this to.

Basically a guest will walk the 'on' light, flip it off (naturally) ... he then it's effectively a manual light

[video=youtube;giBpx7xZdzQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giBpx7xZdzQ[/video]
 

NCBean

New Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2013
Messages
5
#45
Ok so I am in the process of doing a refit to our house to get some smart house capabilities in place and I have had a look at the sonoff switches but I cant for the life of me understand how they will fit on SA light boxes. What size do I use? because i see the US version might be the right size but has the wrong voltage and the UK ones are the right voltage but at 86x86 they just won't fit...
 

Icemanbrfc

Honorary Master
Joined
Jul 28, 2011
Messages
12,659
#46
Hi,

Has anyone got or found wifi light switches that work?

I'm keen to try and get these in my home just cos I think it will be fun to do some ifttt type of thing.

Also I have seen plugs that are wifi, or rather the adapter is wifi. But nothing in the Za plug format. Anyone seen or got something working?

I did see qlikswitch, but it didn't tickle my fancy.

Thanks
why not just switch the lights off the normal way, by sending the girlfriend or wife. Thats the closest thing to wifeI i found :D
 

alqassam

Expert Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
1,954
#47
Ok so I am in the process of doing a refit to our house to get some smart house capabilities in place and I have had a look at the sonoff switches but I cant for the life of me understand how they will fit on SA light boxes. What size do I use? because i see the US version might be the right size but has the wrong voltage and the UK ones are the right voltage but at 86x86 they just won't fit...
I'm doing the same thing.

Any luck with the sonoff switches?


I would like to automate the following
Garage doors, front gate, geysers, lights and all integrated with the security system.

Possible include the total kwh consumption of the house as well.

Future wise it would be great to use electronic front and rear doors.


Any ideas or what have you done?
 

alqassam

Expert Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
1,954
#48
Ok so I am in the process of doing a refit to our house to get some smart house capabilities in place and I have had a look at the sonoff switches but I cant for the life of me understand how they will fit on SA light boxes. What size do I use? because i see the US version might be the right size but has the wrong voltage and the UK ones are the right voltage but at 86x86 they just won't fit...
So I looked at the sizes, the US one is 120 x 78 which might fit our boxes. I don't think the voltage will be an issue as the specs say 90 to 250v ac.


Might bring one in to test. So if your wiring does not include a neutral then you SOL?
 

gregmcc

Honorary Master
Joined
Jun 29, 2006
Messages
21,226
#49
Also started looking at the sonoff. They seem cheap enough want to use it with Alexa. Might get one or two of them for starters.
Just need to do some more reading up if you need a hub of some kind.

So if your wiring does not include a neutral then you SOL?
Yip, just spent the last 45 mins reading up on this. In the UK very few light switches use a neutral so stuffed there.

A good explanation here:

http://www.vesternet.com/blog/2014/09/why-smart-switches-cant-be-used-without-neutral/

Order one for bang good to play around with. Less that £4! Going to see if I can fit it into my light unit.
 
Last edited:

alqassam

Expert Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
1,954
#50
Also started looking at the sonoff. They seem cheap enough want to use it with Alexa. Might get one or two of them for starters.
Just need to do some more reading up if you need a hub of some kind.
No hub but you need 3 wires for it to work.

It links directly to your app
 

Dolby

Honorary Master
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
25,111
#51
I was lucky that I had the neutral and they could fit behind the switch - a very easy install. However, the electrician did say that it is not the norm and other installs could be more complex ie climb in the room and install at the light.
 

ebendl

Expert Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2004
Messages
2,998
#52
Sorry to bump this... I've been looking at using the Sonoff switches to open my electric gates. Problem is I ideally don't want the Sonoff to output 220v, just give me the relay connections (but still run off 220v on the other side).

Does anybody of something like this around?
 

phaktza

Executive Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2008
Messages
6,185
#53
Sorry to bump this... I've been looking at using the Sonoff switches to open my electric gates. Problem is I ideally don't want the Sonoff to output 220v, just give me the relay connections (but still run off 220v on the other side).

Does anybody of something like this around?
Hi ebendl

Just trying to understand your setup - how will you be powering the gate, if not via a 220v power supply cable?
 

ebendl

Expert Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2004
Messages
2,998
#54
Hi ebendl

Just trying to understand your setup - how will you be powering the gate, if not via a 220v power supply cable?
I already have the gates up and running and they have remotes. Each (one is a Gemini, one is a Centurion) have a TRGGER pin that I believe you can hook up to a switch to let the gate open or close.

The problem with the Sonoff switches mentioned in this thread is that they don't just give you a relay with "free" connections -- it is wired up to the mains too, so the idea is you can use the switch to turn on/off mains powered devices directly. In my instance I just want to trigger the TRIGGER pin, so a relay separate from the mains should be better.

That being said, I noticed now that Sonoff also has a couple of additional offerings, including a Sonoff SV (Safe Voltage) switch (https://www.netram.co.za/3600-sonof...velopment.html?search_query=sonoff&results=11) designed to run from 12 - 24V and switch small voltages, and from what I could gather you can also disconnect the relay from the source, so this is likely what I want.

My next challenge is
a) is my wifi strong enough to get out to my gates (likely not)
b) how can I pick up if the gate is open or closed?

For a) I'm thinking of just opening one of the Centurion remote controls and connecting the relas to the buttons directly. I have 2 extra remotes and that way I don't have to install anything additional into the gate boxes. And it keeps the secure connection bteween the two and I know it covers the distance.

For b) I'm looking at the Sonoff RF bridge (https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-rf-bridge-433.html) -- which basically offers you Wifi control over RF devices, including detection of RF-based door sensors and PIR sensors (they sell their own for cheap). So I could use that to detect if the gate opens or closed. The main purpose here is to have an alarm inside the house if the gate is left open, or my mother-in-law arrives without notice (she has a remote).
 

phaktza

Executive Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2008
Messages
6,185
#55
I already have the gates up and running and they have remotes. Each (one is a Gemini, one is a Centurion) have a TRGGER pin that I believe you can hook up to a switch to let the gate open or close.

The problem with the Sonoff switches mentioned in this thread is that they don't just give you a relay with "free" connections -- it is wired up to the mains too, so the idea is you can use the switch to turn on/off mains powered devices directly. In my instance I just want to trigger the TRIGGER pin, so a relay separate from the mains should be better.

That being said, I noticed now that Sonoff also has a couple of additional offerings, including a Sonoff SV (Safe Voltage) switch (https://www.netram.co.za/3600-sonof...velopment.html?search_query=sonoff&results=11) designed to run from 12 - 24V and switch small voltages, and from what I could gather you can also disconnect the relay from the source, so this is likely what I want.

My next challenge is
a) is my wifi strong enough to get out to my gates (likely not)
b) how can I pick up if the gate is open or closed?

For a) I'm thinking of just opening one of the Centurion remote controls and connecting the relas to the buttons directly. I have 2 extra remotes and that way I don't have to install anything additional into the gate boxes. And it keeps the secure connection bteween the two and I know it covers the distance.

For b) I'm looking at the Sonoff RF bridge (https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-rf-bridge-433.html) -- which basically offers you Wifi control over RF devices, including detection of RF-based door sensors and PIR sensors (they sell their own for cheap). So I could use that to detect if the gate opens or closed. The main purpose here is to have an alarm inside the house if the gate is left open, or my mother-in-law arrives without notice (she has a remote).
Hi ebendl

Yes, I was going to recommend the Sonoff SV - we do have stock. A 433Mhz RF door sensor would also work via the RF bridge (of which we also have stock).

Qwikswitch also have a door sensor and a 12V DC relay - which both use RF and would possibly cover the distance. We can help you out there with a good price, as well.
 

zippy

Executive Member
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
9,466
#56
why not just switch the lights off the normal way, by sending the girlfriend or wife. Thats the closest thing to wifeI i found :D
It depends whether its easier to hack ? The wife/gf or wifi. Which is more secure, and does it mattter ? :)
 

Icemanbrfc

Honorary Master
Joined
Jul 28, 2011
Messages
12,659
#57
It depends whether its easier to hack ? The wife/gf or wifi. Which is more secure, and does it mattter ? :)
I suppose going the gf or wife route will get you thrown out from time to time, but there are patches and fixes for that :D
 

phaktza

Executive Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2008
Messages
6,185
#60
That could probably work for sending and receiving packets, but not really for actual useful data transfer.
The intention is long range control over all devices. You don't need to send much data for a light switch.

The biggest problem with current tech is range - either WiFi or RF. And then if you use WiFi you can't use a battery.
 
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