- Jan 31, 2005
OR: if one switch is on, the current wall-light goes on. If you turn the Sonoff switch on, the light stays on. In other words, the light will be on if either of the switches are on.What does that mean, specifically OR and XOR?
They're selling a bulb as well as a bulb fitting with built in wifi. But neither of these will resolve Dolby's issue as now the guest won't be able to turn the light on or off at allIs that not a bulb with a wifi radio (as an access point), rather than a light you can control with wifi?
why not just switch the lights off the normal way, by sending the girlfriend or wife. Thats the closest thing to wifeI i foundHi,
Has anyone got or found wifi light switches that work?
I'm keen to try and get these in my home just cos I think it will be fun to do some ifttt type of thing.
Also I have seen plugs that are wifi, or rather the adapter is wifi. But nothing in the Za plug format. Anyone seen or got something working?
I did see qlikswitch, but it didn't tickle my fancy.
I'm doing the same thing.Ok so I am in the process of doing a refit to our house to get some smart house capabilities in place and I have had a look at the sonoff switches but I cant for the life of me understand how they will fit on SA light boxes. What size do I use? because i see the US version might be the right size but has the wrong voltage and the UK ones are the right voltage but at 86x86 they just won't fit...
So I looked at the sizes, the US one is 120 x 78 which might fit our boxes. I don't think the voltage will be an issue as the specs say 90 to 250v ac.Ok so I am in the process of doing a refit to our house to get some smart house capabilities in place and I have had a look at the sonoff switches but I cant for the life of me understand how they will fit on SA light boxes. What size do I use? because i see the US version might be the right size but has the wrong voltage and the UK ones are the right voltage but at 86x86 they just won't fit...
Yip, just spent the last 45 mins reading up on this. In the UK very few light switches use a neutral so stuffed there.So if your wiring does not include a neutral then you SOL?
No hub but you need 3 wires for it to work.Also started looking at the sonoff. They seem cheap enough want to use it with Alexa. Might get one or two of them for starters.
Just need to do some more reading up if you need a hub of some kind.
Hi ebendlSorry to bump this... I've been looking at using the Sonoff switches to open my electric gates. Problem is I ideally don't want the Sonoff to output 220v, just give me the relay connections (but still run off 220v on the other side).
Does anybody of something like this around?
I already have the gates up and running and they have remotes. Each (one is a Gemini, one is a Centurion) have a TRGGER pin that I believe you can hook up to a switch to let the gate open or close.Hi ebendl
Just trying to understand your setup - how will you be powering the gate, if not via a 220v power supply cable?
Hi ebendlI already have the gates up and running and they have remotes. Each (one is a Gemini, one is a Centurion) have a TRGGER pin that I believe you can hook up to a switch to let the gate open or close.
The problem with the Sonoff switches mentioned in this thread is that they don't just give you a relay with "free" connections -- it is wired up to the mains too, so the idea is you can use the switch to turn on/off mains powered devices directly. In my instance I just want to trigger the TRIGGER pin, so a relay separate from the mains should be better.
That being said, I noticed now that Sonoff also has a couple of additional offerings, including a Sonoff SV (Safe Voltage) switch (https://www.netram.co.za/3600-sonoff-sv-safe-voltage-wifi-wireless-switch-smart-home-module-support-secondary-development.html?search_query=sonoff&results=11) designed to run from 12 - 24V and switch small voltages, and from what I could gather you can also disconnect the relay from the source, so this is likely what I want.
My next challenge is
a) is my wifi strong enough to get out to my gates (likely not)
b) how can I pick up if the gate is open or closed?
For a) I'm thinking of just opening one of the Centurion remote controls and connecting the relas to the buttons directly. I have 2 extra remotes and that way I don't have to install anything additional into the gate boxes. And it keeps the secure connection bteween the two and I know it covers the distance.
For b) I'm looking at the Sonoff RF bridge (https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-rf-bridge-433.html) -- which basically offers you Wifi control over RF devices, including detection of RF-based door sensors and PIR sensors (they sell their own for cheap). So I could use that to detect if the gate opens or closed. The main purpose here is to have an alarm inside the house if the gate is left open, or my mother-in-law arrives without notice (she has a remote).
The intention is long range control over all devices. You don't need to send much data for a light switch.That could probably work for sending and receiving packets, but not really for actual useful data transfer.