Wiring distributuion box

Joking aside,

I've designed DBs for hospitals etc and these days I connect up 3MVA generators with huge 6000A synchronous transformer supplies, but I still had an electrician do our house's board. You're going to want a proper signed off C.O.C. if anything goes wrong and on top of that we don't want you to accidentally check out when you make contact with an unprotected wire.

Izinyoko.
 
dillinger said:
Get a sparky. Everything needs to be on a E/L some people take the lights of the E/L as they did a stuff up when installing the lights and now the E/L trips all the time. The way a breaker is designed to work with overload and short circuit you have to feed at the top and connect the load at the bottom, there are some breakers that can be wired any way but lets not get into it for now, usually on the breakers they indicate supply and load. As per your old DB, there are some nice PVC surface mount that just fix over the old DB and wire all the new equipment in the new DB.
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Any appliance with a dedicated switch such as stove, geyser,dish-washer, fridge, does not need to be on E/L. Lights do not have to be on E/L. The standard socket circuits do.
 
Get a Sparky to do it....

Get a COC for the work. The risk is not worth it doing it yourself. period.
 
Voicy said:
Joking aside,

I've designed DBs for hospitals etc and these days I connect up 3MVA generators with huge 6000A synchronous transformer supplies, but I still had an electrician do our house's board. You're going to want a proper signed off C.O.C. if anything goes wrong and on top of that we don't want you to accidentally check out when you make contact with an unprotected wire.

Izinyoko.
Click to expand...

Listen to this man.
 
Dude!!! I am the same, I do all my electrical work myself, but you have to look at the bigger picture here. INSURANCE - rather get somebody qualified and that can give you a CoC and then at least you eliminate one more excuse for your Insurer to decline a payout should anything go wrong
 
Guys since we are doing this, are there any good online open heart surgery guides?
 
[video=youtube;A47QcOVhaus]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A47QcOVhaus[/video]
 
gfmalan said:
I guess it would be possible for you to rewire the DB, and my first Question would be, can you switch off the live (60A) wires comming in to the DB?
Or are you going to work live?
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There is the trip switch outside and the circuit breakers at the pole.

Robertvv said:
You get new small circuit breakers.

Why is that thing getting so hot, loose connection,arching?
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That's what I want to know myself. It's 2 or 3 wires that's supposed to connect at the busbar. It doesn't look like it's the diameter or else the live should be acting up as well. Probably been working like that for decades so most likely a connection that's come loose.

In any case have to go and get the wire, new box and breakers today so will know then what goes for what and if I'll need a chisel.
 
gfmalan said:
Yes it is easy to connect correctly and you can use breakers any way arround, but to make it possible for the next guy to work on, keep it to a standard, all ontop or bottom.
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Reason I ask this is because everything comes in from the top then goes behind the plate and to the bottom.
 
Swa said:
Reason I ask this is because everything comes in from the top then goes behind the plate and to the bottom.
Click to expand...

If you are going to-do it youself, and willing to spend money on all new breakers and busbars, and join/extend wiring with ferrels and covering with correct color of Nitto tape, then I'll help you.

To replace the inside of the DB isn't difficult, but a schlep, you can buy products to convert the old DB for new equipment. I would go that route, as you can have it working in an hour.

Is the EL tripping when pressing the test button?
Do you have dualpole isolators at the geyser and stove?
 
Voicy said:
Penny wise, pound foolish.

Look at the bright side. The money you save by doing it yourself can go towards the deposit of a new house once this one burns down.
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Just be sure to tell your life insurance if you have diabetes.
 
Ok I seem to have gotten two different types, they aren't marked, but all pictures I can find seem to show both types as mini rail. Only the one on the right fits.

20170826(000002).jpg
 
Ok never mind. The left is the correct mini rail which is actually called the samite rail. The other one seems to fit both samite and DIN. Now it's another trip to exchange for the correct box as I seem to have ended up with DIN rail.
 
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