Axpert invertors

[blacknight72]

Also make sure that your battery type is selected correctly (program 5). If you've selected user defined, you must also make sure the voltage levels are set correctly (programs 26, 27, 29). This COULD cause problems. I went with flooded, as I'm using traditional flooded lead-acid types. I believe yours are also this type.

I shall verify this matter with the contractor. I am also using flooded lead acid cells from Trojan

 

[blacknight72]

Today when we spoke around this matter the installer confessed that he used 'flexible DC wire ' instead of the recommended one in the manual!! Could this be the root cause?

 

[savage]

Today when we spoke around this matter the installer confessed that he used 'flexible DC wire ' instead of the recommended one in the manual!! Could this be the root cause?

Not for a OVER voltage I think.... If it was UNDER voltage, I could maybe say yes - there may have been voltage drops and what not... Granted, proper cabling is required regardless.

Without at the very least pics of what has been done, and basic readings with a multimeter - everything is really just going to be a stab in the dark.

 

[blacknight72]

Thanks Greg! You have a point. The installer is blissfully unaware of many a things written in the manual. He keeps blaming the batteries for this issue. He says 3KVA Axpert can take only 100Ah and 240 Ah cell is too much for the system.

 

[savage]

Thanks Greg! You have a point. The installer is blissfully unaware of many a things written in the manual. He keeps blaming the batteries for this issue. He says 3KVA Axpert can take only 100Ah and 240 Ah cell is too much for the system.

That is bull****. The Ah has nothing to do with it - as long as the batteries are at the right voltage, it should work. It's starting to sound (if you understand your sparkie correctly) like this is a backyard sparkie not knowing what is klaping.

Have you asked for his ECB contractor's card / registration number? Have you validated it at the ECB?

 

[DollyAAAA]

Thanks Greg! You have a point. The installer is blissfully unaware of many a things written in the manual. He keeps blaming the batteries for this issue. He says 3KVA Axpert can take only 100Ah and 240 Ah cell is too much for the system.

Stront man. The battery capacity (Ah rating) has nothing to do with it. Your charger might take longer to recharge a larger bank, but the voltage is still the same.

It's like a large dam and a small dam with the same depth (voltage). The one has more water (more Ah), but the pressure at the bottom is the same for both.

 

[blacknight72]

DollyAAA & Savage, Thank you for the explanation and reassurance. I am offered a replacement for the current inverter. May be he should rebuild the system . Hoping it will work. Shall keep posted.

 

[JohnHay]

In SANS 10142-1:2012

7.12.5 Additional requirements for installations where the gene-
rating set provides a supply as a switched alternative to the main
supply (standby systems and UPS systems that incorporate bypass
switching)

7.12.5.2 A 16 A switched socket-outlet shall be provided supplied from a
utility board not connected to the plant direct.

So does this apply to Axpert/Infinisolar setups too? Does it have to be close to the inverter and if so, does it need to be E/L too? Or if one is going to have some of your wall socket-outlets behind the inverter and an E/L, will that be enough?

I was thinking of putting two small DBs close to the inverter, one for the solar and one for the AC. Can one run one piece of trunking from the ceiling down to them, with both the AC and PV cables inside? The PV will be just less than 500V DC, but will use PV cable.

 

[DollyAAAA]

DollyAAA & Savage, Thank you for the explanation and reassurance. I am offered a replacement for the current inverter. May be he should rebuild the system . Hoping it will work. Shall keep posted.

No problem. Did the installer check the settings? Maybe it is just an incorrect setting.

 

[blacknight72]

No problem. Did the installer check the settings? Maybe it is just an incorrect setting.

He says he has checked. Anyway I am bringing in another installer who has more experience in this regard.

 

[ray-zin]

Is it just me or does it seem like Chris is the ONLY electrician in the country that knows how to do this stuff properly?

 

[savage]

Is it just me or does it seem like Chris is the ONLY electrician in the country that knows how to do this stuff properly?

More than likely not... I may be one of a few only on myBB that actually cares enough to inform non-electricians on what they can, and cannot do in terms of the laws of this country though

You don't have to listen / follow advice though - no body is forcing you...

 

[ray-zin]

I think us Gautengers should do a "group sub contract" and get you up here to do a bunch of Axpert installs back to back ;-) Everything I read here makes me too scared to get just any electrical contractor in!

 

[savage]

I think us Gautengers should do a "group sub contract" and get you up here to do a bunch of Axpert installs back to back ;-) Everything I read here makes me too scared to get just any electrical contractor in!

If they charge you R300 to install, or R500 for a COC - RUN Just my personal opinion...

 

[DollyAAAA]

Ok, so after some rewiring this weekend, this is what my DB looks like now:



I've moved the earth leakage section from the bottom row to the top right, so that all the normal Eskom supply is on top, and the bottom row is reserved for the feed from the inverter.

Also added is a LED indicator to each bank showing power present or not.

So top row, left to right: Main breaker, power indicator, stove, geyser, inverter. Then earth leakage with 3 plug circuits.

Bottom row: Inverter main breaker, power indicator, dedicated plugs, lights.

First horizontal neutral bar is for main feed, second is earth leakage and the vertical neutral bar is the inverter section.

All earths are common at the bottom.

Question: Is the inverter section on the bottom row separate enough for me to avoid putting up a separate DB just for that? I'd love to get your input Savage.

I'm still painting and labelling the cover, will post pictures as soon as I get a chance.

 

[JohnHay]

Tell a little more about those indicator LEDs please?

 

[DollyAAAA]

Tell a little more about those indicator LEDs please?

Homemade. I wanted some way of showing power present. You can get DIN rail mounted units that have indicators built in, but couldn't find mini rail equivalents. So I took apart an old broken MCB and mounted a round 10mm 230V LED inside and voila! Power indicator.

 

[Marvo]

.....Question: Is the inverter section on the bottom row separate enough for me to avoid putting up a separate DB just for that?

A separate DB won't be necessary. Highlight the bottom area with red and label it as being supplied by a back-up system. Label the 3 neutral bars as 'main' 'RCD' and 'UPS'. Label the indicator lamps as well because it might be mistaken for a surge arrestor with its end of life indicator on.

I like your indicator lamps, very inventive by the way.

If the two 10A breakers are supplying any plug and sockets you'll need to add a 30mA earth leakage on the bottom rail.

 

[mmacleod]

You should remove that last sticking out wire on the bottom right 10A breaker Assume it is just because you are still busy

 

[savage]

Yup - what Marvo said IMHO. Nothing wrong there in terms of what you have done, it will come down to the labeling now.

- If you are planning to add plugs behind the inverter, yes, E/L will be a must (can be small, 20A or 30A, no overload required)
- Your Inverter's neutral isn't bonded with earth (from what I can see)
- If they are bonded, you definitely can't do that with 2mm cable - get at lest 10mm if your council supply is a 16mm cable
- Same with the bridges at the top of the breakers second row. Either get a copper bridge, or use heavy duty cable between the breaker's supply. I am presuming the bare live wire there is still missing the breaker.

Was initially surprised when I saw the sammite indicator light - wasn't aware that you even get them. But yea, nothing wrong with home made I suppose - it just wouldn't be something that I would personally do in such a installation.