General Photography

Apart from the tying off when I tilt it ... a bit bothersome :) And I also can't swivel it coz it pegs in the ground.
 
Mephisto_Helix said:
Apart from the tying off when I tilt it ... a bit bothersome :) And I also can't swivel it coz it pegs in the ground.
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I take it you're using the self timer to trigger the camera for these long exposures?
 
Yeah, the 2second and the 15 second for now ...... I'll play with the others later on. I know there's a setting that takes 2 pics after like 15 seconds and 3 seconds in between that I want to play with somehow.
 
Rouxenator said:
Nice, but with point and shoot camera like ours you really want to keep the ISO at 100 or less.
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My lowest ISO setting is 100! I have a 100, 200, 400, 800 and 1000 setting. I only use up to 400 because the rest are fairly noisy.
 
Just_Ice said:
My lowest ISO setting is 100! I have a 100, 200, 400, 800 and 1000 setting. I only use up to 400 because the rest are fairly noisy.
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Strange - these days they tend to span from 64 or 80 up to 1600 or more. My Kodak is usually set to 80 but I can take it up to 800 without worrying too much. It does do a lot of noise reduction though...
 
Was your F Stop at the lowest possible value ?
I guess in your case you will need a higher ISO then. I am used to 16seconds at ISO80 and that is just enough (sometimes a little to dark).
 
My normal max is 8.4 and I found out tonight that the minimum and maximum gets bigger when you zoom ..... yes, very noob but at least I found it out :D
 
The opening of the aperture actually remains the same. The F stop (F number) is actually the diameter of the aperture opening over the focal length. As you zoom your focal length increases and this the value changes.
 
Night shots on a point and shoot - the lowest F you can get. That will result in the widest aperture opening. Just keep in mind that the lower F values result in a shallower depth of field. But explaining that will really be off topic here - why not read : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F_stop

(bwana, if you wanna move all this technical stuff out of this thread to somewhere else I would be happy as well)
 
Noob question time again - how does one go about doing a panorama? Like not the software but the actual picture taking. Do you take a picture, slightly move the camera, take another picture, etc?
 
Mephisto_Helix said:
eish, a highly technical description :o
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You want to try and get a bit of overlap. The built in pano mode on my nikon seems to want almost 1/4 of the frame.

If you have a tripod available then use it. I usually do mine freehand by facing the area I want to end at and then twisting my torso around to the starting point.

Camera work - fix the focus and the aperture - you dont want the DOF changing. If fact if you can freeze everything (shutter speed, aperture, focus) it makes life easier.
 
Thanks bwana, that makes a lot more sense for us noob types .......

(P.S - And then ICE would probably be the software of choice?)
 
Mephisto_Helix said:
Thanks bwana, that makes a lot more sense for us noob types .......

(P.S - And then ICE would probably be the software of choice?)
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I did a test yesterday for my own interest and PS3 did a better job with the stitching (less misaligned objects) but ICE wasnt bad and, if you dont have PS, the price is good. :)
 
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