MyBB Motorcycle Owners Thread

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Archer said:
Donford says it is likely unburnt fuel...
But still doesn't help explain why my oil usage is higher than normal.

I think I know how to solve all this... I'll buy a new bike :D
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Even that indicates something is up with the fuelling being wrong.

As I recall you are all stock as well?
 
Quick question. So Sunday evening I replaced the worn front pads on my bike. Pads only. Didn't touch anything else. Now I have severe brake shudder.

Any ideas what could be wrong?

New pads are EBC HH, I've come across at least one reference that mention they shudder sometimes, suggested remedy is swapping the pads around. Prior to swapping the new pads, there was no shudder at all. So I'm pretty sure it's in fact the new pads that are the issue.

Comments/suggestions?
 
SykomantiS said:
Quick question. So Sunday evening I replaced the worn front pads on my bike. Pads only. Didn't touch anything else. Now I have severe brake shudder.

Any ideas what could be wrong?

New pads are EBC HH, I've come across at least one reference that mention they shudder sometimes, suggested remedy is swapping the pads around. Prior to swapping the new pads, there was no shudder at all. So I'm pretty sure it's in fact the new pads that are the issue.

Comments/suggestions?
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How worn are the discs?

Remember the old pads would have shaped according to the discs over time.

Putting new ones on means you are basically resetting that wear and would cause new resistance.

Running them in slowly should sort them out in a little while. But all depends how bad it really is I guess.
 
Well the bike is coming up on 55k km now, if that is any indication - road only, no track time ever. Tbh I'm not sure how much wear the rotors can take before they need replacing, and I've also not measured them.
 
SykomantiS said:
Well the bike is coming up on 55k km now, if that is any indication - road only, no track time ever. Tbh I'm not sure how much wear the rotors can take before they need replacing, and I've also not measured them.
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Well if we assume those are the original rotors then it could be that.

You didn't bleed brakes at the same time? Did you open the reservoir cover while changing pads?

Try the cable tie trick overnight and see if it makes any difference. Basically engage the front brake as tightly as possible and cable tie it around the handlebar grips.

Will force any air bubbles out of the system.
 
Didn't touch the brake lines/fluid. If there was any air in the system, I would be losing braking power, and if anything, the bike stops better than before, with the exception of the severe vibrations.
 
SykomantiS said:
Didn't touch the brake lines/fluid. If there was any air in the system, I would be losing braking power, and if anything, the bike stops better than before, with the exception of the severe vibrations.
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You should have opened the reservoir when pushing the pistons back into the callipers at the very least.

But yes I agree bubbles would represent themselves differently, but I would still follow due process especially if it was done wrong in the first place.
 
Good day guys, I'm planning to get a bike for myself but i do not know what to get. I want i cruister that i know but what bike keep buget(70000), part, running cost ect. In mind. My best option so far is a honda vt750s, it will be used for going to work and breakfast runs with the wife she is verry light
 
Zuner said:
So today I adjusted my idle rpm, felt like it was too high. I know every bike is different, but what are your idle rpm at operating temp?
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Read the manual it should tell you exactly. Different engine types vary greatly.

What made you felt it was high? Car experience?

My Buell idled at 900, my Triumph at 1800 and my BMW at 1200 odd also assuming the display/clock will be off anyway.

Most modern bikes though will adjust idle as necessary and the idle screw is just to adjust the baseline voltage for the ECU.

Also if your Throttle Position Sensor is out so will your idle in most cases.
 
Waptrick said:
Good day guys, I'm planning to get a bike for myself but i do not know what to get. I want i cruister that i know but what bike keep buget(70000), part, running cost ect. In mind. My best option so far is a honda vt750s, it will be used for going to work and breakfast runs with the wife she is verry light
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I'll get flack for this, but if you want a cruiser buy a Harley.

Second hand Street 750 probably in that range now.
 
They are pretty simple motors to work on, much more so than other Japanese counterparts, so labour hours required are less.

Labour cost per hour will vary from one shop to another.

Being belt driven you don't have the cost of that and sprockets to worry about as frequently either.

Not sure what service intervals are these days.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Read the manual it should tell you exactly. Different engine types vary greatly.

What made you felt it was high? Car experience?

My Buell idled at 900, my Triumph at 1800 and my BMW at 1200 odd also assuming the display/clock will be off anyway.

Most modern bikes though will adjust idle as necessary and the idle screw is just to adjust the baseline voltage for the ECU.

Also if your Throttle Position Sensor is out so will your idle in most cases.
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i just randomly felt like it was too high while standing at a robot, it sounded like i'm holding the throttle slightly open, i guess it is car experience.

it was at 1200 i dropped it to 1000, checked the manual it states 1250-1350 so i guess i'll be upping it again.
 
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