Starting out with Sonoff

AlphaJohn said:
1 For graphs install Mini-graph-card for more options that what the default provides... for example I like a 2 day norm on mine:
View attachment 997544
if you cant "hack" to your liking then I would go the Grafana route as Tinuva suggest above, personally I dont need that much control/power and happy with mini card.

For the Icons you can use a combination of Horizonal cards to get the look you want?

2: Yes you totally can you,like I said automation in Hass.io can go from super simple to the insane. Also note it does support Node-Red as well. You can Google some examples on that to see what some people pull off.

Edit: In Mini graph I just changed the hours to 168 for a week and refreshed to get this
View attachment 997546

Example code for that is:

Code: 
type: 'custom:mini-graph-card'
name: Temperature
entities:
- entity: sensor.sonoff_XXXXXXX_temperature
hours_to_show: 168
show:
labels: true
color_thresholds:
- value: 20
color: '#7FC9FF'
- value: 24
color: '#7FFF8E'
- value: 26
color: '#FF7F7F'
color_thresholds_transition: smooth
Click to expand...

How long is your recorder set to record?
 
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AlphaJohn said:
1 For graphs install Mini-graph-card for more options that what the default provides... for example I like a 2 day norm on mine:
View attachment 997544
if you cant "hack" to your liking then I would go the Grafana route as Tinuva suggest above, personally I dont need that much control/power and happy with mini card.

For the Icons you can use a combination of Horizonal cards to get the look you want?

2: Yes you totally can you,like I said automation in Hass.io can go from super simple to the insane. Also note it does support Node-Red as well. You can Google some examples on that to see what some people pull off.

Edit: In Mini graph I just changed the hours to 168 for a week and refreshed to get this
View attachment 997546

Example code for that is:

Code: 
type: 'custom:mini-graph-card'
name: Temperature
entities:
  - entity: sensor.sonoff_XXXXXXX_temperature
hours_to_show: 168
show:
  labels: true
color_thresholds:
  - value: 20
    color: '#7FC9FF'
  - value: 24
    color: '#7FFF8E'
  - value: 26
    color: '#FF7F7F'
color_thresholds_transition: smooth
Click to expand...

You are a legend sir.
How do I go about creating stacked graphs where say all of the temperature monitors are on the same graph?
Like your servers and power graphs.
 
MDKza said:
You are a legend sir.
How do I go about creating stacked graphs where say all of the temperature monitors are on the same graph?
Like your servers and power graphs.
Click to expand...
Code: 
type: 'custom:mini-graph-card'
name: Servers
entities:
  - entity: sensor.cpu_temp
    name: HassIO
    color: '#FFB27F'
  - entity: sensor.synology_average_temp
    name: NAS
    color: '#7FC9FF'
hours_to_show: 48
show:
  fill: false

^ Like so
 
AlphaJohn said:
Code: 
type: 'custom:mini-graph-card'
name: Servers
entities:
  - entity: sensor.cpu_temp
    name: HassIO
    color: '#FFB27F'
  - entity: sensor.synology_average_temp
    name: NAS
    color: '#7FC9FF'
hours_to_show: 48
show:
  fill: false

^ Like so
Click to expand...

Shot I just figured it out.
Thanks again for your help.
 
Ok so revisiting those DW2's - they are so trash - wouldn't recommend.
You have to met a bunch of ridiculous requirements for them and then they are either delayed by hours or just disconnect and never reconnect to the WIFI at all.
 
I've been reading this thread with much interest and have learned a lot. Using a Sonoff mini in the light itself so I can continue to use my existing light switches is definitely the next project (my flat also has no neutrals at the switch).

What I'm trying to get going for now though is this: I want to use the dry contacts from my Growatt inverter to trigger any device really, but a Sonoff that works with eWeLink for now will get the idea off the ground. I want it to be triggered as soon as the inverter goes into battery mode and using a scene I can kill the coffee machine, washing machine, dishwasher etc. so I don't end up with a battery shutting down to protect itself or just using most of the battery before I realise what's happened.

I would need to use the NO and C contacts on the inverter but what would I connect it to? I was thinking the Sonoff SV Inching/Self-locking but I may be misunderstanding how the NO/C/NC contacts on that guy work, or the Sonoff SV DC DIY but where to connect the inverter's NO/C "switch"? I know I could use a Sonoff Mini for this as well but then I have either tap into the AC output for power from the inverter (which seems like a very bad idea considering it would bypass the breakers etc. on the sub db), but if use a 5V sonoff (or similar) board I can make a plan with the power output from the USB port on the inverter and have a much safer setup that's all neatly contained.

Am I heading in the right direction with this?
 
charliesjc said:
I've been reading this thread with much interest and have learned a lot. Using a Sonoff mini in the light itself so I can continue to use my existing light switches is definitely the next project (my flat also has no neutrals at the switch).

What I'm trying to get going for now though is this: I want to use the dry contacts from my Growatt inverter to trigger any device really, but a Sonoff that works with eWeLink for now will get the idea off the ground. I want it to be triggered as soon as the inverter goes into battery mode and using a scene I can kill the coffee machine, washing machine, dishwasher etc. so I don't end up with a battery shutting down to protect itself or just using most of the battery before I realise what's happened.

I would need to use the NO and C contacts on the inverter but what would I connect it to? I was thinking the Sonoff SV Inching/Self-locking but I may be misunderstanding how the NO/C/NC contacts on that guy work, or the Sonoff SV DC DIY but where to connect the inverter's NO/C "switch"? I know I could use a Sonoff Mini for this as well but then I have either tap into the AC output for power from the inverter (which seems like a very bad idea considering it would bypass the breakers etc. on the sub db), but if use a 5V sonoff (or similar) board I can make a plan with the power output from the USB port on the inverter and have a much safer setup that's all neatly contained.

Am I heading in the right direction with this?
Click to expand...
I would say no. None of those are good ideas. I have done what you want to do, as in, my pool pump turns off when eskom power goes off.

In my case, home assistant connects to my Goodwe over wifi. Growatt will use another method. But I can read from it when there is no grid power then trigger stuff in home assistant.

Maybe that gives you different ideas.
 
I could use HA as well and it will use my Growatt Wi-Fi dongle, but as far as I can tell, anything that comes from the Wi-Fi dongle is not instant and is only polled every 5 minutes, maybe I can change this for one specific function? No idea yet, it's early days so I'm still looking at my options.

I assume your setup has your pool pump turning off instantly when Eskom power goes off?
 
I recently started pulling down neutrals myself. I honestly must say it is not as hard as I thought.

- Bought some fishing tape after watching an electrician use it the first time. He charged me couple of R100 to pull down 2 neutrals, the fishing tape cost me R250.
- I use 1.5mm house wire that one buys at Builders. Probably not the cheapest but it works -- especially since the neutral in the switchbox are not going to be carrying a lot of current to the Sonoff / Shelly.
- I usually go from the lightbox up into the ceiling and try to figure out the shortest route.
- Then I use HelaCon push-in wire connectors to link the neutral at the light together with the light and the new neutral coming up from the lightbox.

Only in one instance did I have a lot of trouble getting the new neutral and fishing-tape through the conduit. Kept up snagging around midway (likely a kink in the earth or existing live wire). I tried different ways of connecting the wire to the tape and taping it all over with electricians tape to get it to be as smooth as possible, but it still kept snagging.

Eventually I took a chance and used one of the existing wires (the live) and tied a new live and the new neutral to it. Taped the whole thing smooth. Tested the pull strength to make sure I don't loose one or both in the conduit and proceeded to pull.

It pulled through easily and effectively in one smooth motion. :)
 
ebendl said:
I recently started pulling down neutrals myself. I honestly must say it is not as hard as I thought.

- Bought some fishing tape after watching an electrician use it the first time. He charged me couple of R100 to pull down 2 neutrals, the fishing tape cost me R250.
- I use 1.5mm house wire that one buys at Builders. Probably not the cheapest but it works -- especially since the neutral in the switchbox are not going to be carrying a lot of current to the Sonoff / Shelly.
- I usually go from the lightbox up into the ceiling and try to figure out the shortest route.
- Then I use HelaCon push-in wire connectors to link the neutral at the light together with the light and the new neutral coming up from the lightbox.

Only in one instance did I have a lot of trouble getting the new neutral and fishing-tape through the conduit. Kept up snagging around midway (likely a kink in the earth or existing live wire). I tried different ways of connecting the wire to the tape and taping it all over with electricians tape to get it to be as smooth as possible, but it still kept snagging.

Eventually I took a chance and used one of the existing wires (the live) and tied a new live and the new neutral to it. Taped the whole thing smooth. Tested the pull strength to make sure I don't loose one or both in the conduit and proceeded to pull.

It pulled through easily and effectively in one smooth motion. :)
Click to expand...
I may end up looking at this too. I have an electrician who will be coming by to sort a light and a switch out because the live is stuffed and a previous sparky ran some rubbish out of the plug to bypass the whole lot. But then there was a time when other electrical issues were causing an earth leakage trip and the lights were eventually removed from earth leakage to fix the problem. But the light in question is tripping earth leakage these days because now there is a live from the plug (on EL) and the neutral in the light (not on EL). It's a mess. So I will bear witness to more than just a neutral being sent there so hopefully I'll have a good idea of how to do it.
 
charliesjc said:
I could use HA as well and it will use my Growatt Wi-Fi dongle, but as far as I can tell, anything that comes from the Wi-Fi dongle is not instant and is only polled every 5 minutes, maybe I can change this for one specific function? No idea yet, it's early days so I'm still looking at my options.

I assume your setup has your pool pump turning off instantly when Eskom power goes off?
Click to expand...
It's not near instant, probably closer to 1 minute. Inverter can handle the pool pump but I want to save battery mostly.
 
charliesjc said:
I've been reading this thread with much interest and have learned a lot. Using a Sonoff mini in the light itself so I can continue to use my existing light switches is definitely the next project (my flat also has no neutrals at the switch).

What I'm trying to get going for now though is this: I want to use the dry contacts from my Growatt inverter to trigger any device really, but a Sonoff that works with eWeLink for now will get the idea off the ground. I want it to be triggered as soon as the inverter goes into battery mode and using a scene I can kill the coffee machine, washing machine, dishwasher etc. so I don't end up with a battery shutting down to protect itself or just using most of the battery before I realise what's happened.

I would need to use the NO and C contacts on the inverter but what would I connect it to? I was thinking the Sonoff SV Inching/Self-locking but I may be misunderstanding how the NO/C/NC contacts on that guy work, or the Sonoff SV DC DIY but where to connect the inverter's NO/C "switch"? I know I could use a Sonoff Mini for this as well but then I have either tap into the AC output for power from the inverter (which seems like a very bad idea considering it would bypass the breakers etc. on the sub db), but if use a 5V sonoff (or similar) board I can make a plan with the power output from the USB port on the inverter and have a much safer setup that's all neatly contained.

Am I heading in the right direction with this?
Click to expand...
I work with a range of devices from Switchbee. If you are using Apple. They have created a link through Apple Homebridge to enable linking various devices like your inverter, security system and more .
Just as a matter of interest one of Switchbee's patents is easily installed 1 gang, 2 gang and 3 gang switches that don't require a neutral. Linking switches as 2 way switches or scenario switches is simple with the Switchbee app available either on Apple or Android
Happy to help anytime should you require more info.
 
Last edited:
I connected a Sonoff to the gate motor so it opens with no issues. Is there a way to get the gate to open only pedestrian width using the sonoff? I have one with 2 switches. So Switch 1 could be full open and Switch 2 would be for pedestrians. Which wires on the gate control board would i need to use?
 
powermzii said:
I connected a Sonoff to the gate motor so it opens with no issues. Is there a way to get the gate to open only pedestrian width using the sonoff? I have one with 2 switches. So Switch 1 could be full open and Switch 2 would be for pedestrians. Which wires on the gate control board would i need to use?
Click to expand...
Instead of trigger you use Ped And yeah you will need two sonoffs or a sonoff that has two relays
 
Hreppix said:
Which dishwasher to choose to connect it to the smart home system? I read about modern models, but there is nothing written about connecting to smart home systems.
Click to expand...

What would the purpose be? It's not really something what benefits all that much from automation, it needs to be packed, filled with detergents and rinse aids etc and then turned on when fitting
 
Hreppix said:
Which dishwasher to choose to connect it to the smart home system? I read about modern models, but there is nothing written about connecting to smart home systems.
Click to expand...
I honestly haven't found a lot of Wifi enabled models around here and I agree with @Steamy Tom -- I see little purpose. I would buy one with a delay start, however.

If you're interested in knowing when it is done, or how much power it uses, just get a smart plug with energy monitoring and connect the dishwasher to it. I have one of those and could measure all the different cycles to really figure out which cycle is the best (turns out it is the ECO one, but it runs for 3 hours, while the normal cycle which runs for 2 hours uses just 0.3kWh more energy).

There are guys online who have used smart plugs to figure out which cycle their washer (clothes) is and then notify it when it is done.

I also have automations in Home Assistant to turn off the dishwasher if Eskom goes out and my inverter's batteries are low -- no need to wash dishes at that point.
 
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