The BMW 320d Fanboy Thread

Question, has anyone had their steering rack replaced on their F30 ? If so what were the symptoms/tell tale signs ?
I have the most annoying constant wheel wobble at pretty much any speed and a weird clunking sound coming from the front right at low speeds.
It "feels" as if something is loose/moving around.
The dealership are yet to diagnose the root cause even though they've essentially taken half the car apart thus far. Investigation to continue this week.
Bushings and bearings appear ok, control arms etc seem fine. Shocks passed a shock rebound test. (though I suspect it could be the top shock mount...)
No amount of wheel balancing or rotation left to right/front to rear makes any real difference.
Rims have been checked and are 100% . Alignment seemed in spec too.
Problem is driving (excuse the pun) crazy.
Will see what the dealership find later this week.

Should be able to see if the rack needs to be replaced quite easily.

I just had mine done on my Amarok a few weeks ago, and it was easy as hell to see, there was an insane amount of movement on the rack itself.
 
Question, has anyone had their steering rack replaced on their F30 ? If so what were the symptoms/tell tale signs ?
I have the most annoying constant wheel wobble at pretty much any speed and a weird clunking sound coming from the front right at low speeds.
It "feels" as if something is loose/moving around.
The dealership are yet to diagnose the root cause even though they've essentially taken half the car apart thus far. Investigation to continue this week.
Bushings and bearings appear ok, control arms etc seem fine. Shocks passed a shock rebound test. (though I suspect it could be the top shock mount...)
No amount of wheel balancing or rotation left to right/front to rear makes any real difference.
Rims have been checked and are 100% . Alignment seemed in spec too.
Problem is driving (excuse the pun) crazy.
Will see what the dealership find later this week.
I assumed that you looked at all suspension component including ball joint?

Does it get worse under braking?

Could it be the propshaft needs balancing or flexi-disc

You say Front right wheel when i owned BMWs that side was the common issue for control arm bushing because the exhaust ran past that side .
 
I assumed that you looked at all suspension component including ball joint?

Does it get worse under braking?

Could it be the propshaft needs balancing or flexi-disc

You say Front right wheel when i owned BMWs that side was the common issue for control arm bushing because the exhaust ran past that side .
No, nothing really noticeable under breaking. I.e not a warped disk.
Car is rear wheel Drive. Dont think the prop shaft is the problem, Though I have asked them to check that previously to be sure.
Ja, ball joins have been checked too. Nothing obvious stands out as the problem....We'll see what they find later this week.
 
I do seem to remember there being an issue with F30 steering racks that had an official BMW repair kit. Not sure if it's related to your issue. Lot's of forums posts and youtube videos detailing it
 
CHeck when you change your fuel filter there maybe requirements to prime the fuel system so it doesnt build up air.

On Audi theres an app on OBDEleven that you run after you change the fuel filter and that will prime the system.
That's a good point, on my pre LCI 320d with the M47TU2 motor the fuel filter was replaced by a non BMW specialist mechanic that just let the car crank itself back into priming. But 5-10 seconds of cranking is probably not a good idea on the fuel pumps especially the high pressure units.

I do have a VAG COM cable for my Mk7 Golf but I should probably get the proper cable and software packages for the BMW as well
 
I'm stuck on 7.0L/100KM on the E90 320d Facelift, I do mostly city driving, some highway at most 40KM if I do.
I don't tend to accelerate harshly.
 
I used liquimoly as well but I went for the fully synthetic 5W40 given our hotter climate its the green in colour oil. what does BMW recommend ?
BMW Oil is manufactured by Shell, for the E90 diesel, they use fully synthetic and is rated at 5w30.
 
Actually good for your injectors better lubrication
bad for DPF and EGR
and terrible for the oil - can lead to engine destruction if you font change oil in time

But if you had to use 500PPM and no other choice you can - maybe to get out of a dorpie that doesnt have 50ppm

10PPM has the least lubrication - not the best for the system
I've been filling exclusively 10ppm for last 15 months, seems like i should use 50 ppm for a bit now, just to balance out things
 
That's a good point, on my pre LCI 320d with the M47TU2 motor the fuel filter was replaced by a non BMW specialist mechanic that just let the car crank itself back into priming. But 5-10 seconds of cranking is probably not a good idea on the fuel pumps especially the high pressure units.

I do have a VAG COM cable for my Mk7 Golf but I should probably get the proper cable and software packages for the BMW as well
As the diesel flow through the pumps it lubricated the pumps and its very hard on the fuel pumps running air you can cause some damage.

Not sure if you remember the older diesel they had a handpump under the bonnet you use that to prime the fuel system.
 
As the diesel flow through the pumps it lubricated the pumps and its very hard on the fuel pumps running air you can cause some damage.

Not sure if you remember the older diesel they had a handpump under the bonnet you use that to prime the fuel system.
I haven't gotten round to doing the fuel filter yet, down with flu. I did read on a forum that doing pressing start without the clutch depressed will prime the fuel system so planning on doing that a few times.

My Golf primes when you open the driver door
 
thats your initial priming - Mine does it when I unlock the car remotely you hear the fuel pumps kicking in
 
Anybody ever had rear brake locking?
My car is in workshop for 3 weeks now. Calipers serviced, brake fluid checked, bleeded lines but still keep locking after driving a bit.
Currently having ABS module checked and just the check cost R900+.
 
Close to buying this but I’m getting cold feet vibes. I love it!

2012 BMW 1 Series 120d Coupe M Sport Auto
https://www.cars.co.za/for-sale/use...upe-M-Sport-Auto-Gauteng-Vereeniging/8502813/

It’s pretty, but I’d be weary of the Km, and check it’s service history , it’s last bmw recorded service was at 100k in 2017 , if a car done 100k in 5 years, I’d be expecting roughly another 100k in another 5 years, it’s a few Km short of “expected” that said, I could be totally off

Either way, check service history!

a6161dccdfa1341925ce6d0bfbf36f3e.jpg
 
Close to buying this but I’m getting cold feet vibes. I love it!

2012 BMW 1 Series 120d Coupe M Sport Auto
https://www.cars.co.za/for-sale/use...upe-M-Sport-Auto-Gauteng-Vereeniging/8502813/
Check if oil was changed annually , the last service you have a BMW service in 2017 the owner could have done services independently, if so then its cool. I do my own services, but I have this little black book where I record everything.

Diesel cars just need to make sure the oil is cleans, Filters Fuel, air and oil at 176000kms change the glow plugs if they were not changed they normally last up until 160 000km

Once thing judging from the picture is go get a set of rotors and new brake pads they not expense, Goldwagen actually stocks the ATE brand that BMW uses.
 
Anyone here tried dirty diesel? 500ppm

Some camps are saying its good to add a litre or 2 when you fueling up as the high sulphur promote better lubrication of the high and low pressure fuel pumps and also lubricates the injectors , anyone tried this? I have only used 50ppm from the total near me as they are they cheapest in my area.
There is quiet a following with mixing 2stroke oil with the diesel every few tanks, allegedly has some positive effects
Going from the ridiculous to the absurd.

Follow manufacturer recommendations, and if you really have to - there are loads of reputable products out there (such as this: https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/diesel-purge-p000038.html#1811) to use in conjunction with a modern diesel engine. You are not driving an 1988 Isuzu diesel bakkie.
 
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