The Home Improvements Thread (2)

[martin]

If I have learnt anything in renovations, its not to trust the color of the wire. Just because that isolator has a black and a red wire, does not mean it is a live and neutral. It could be used to switch the circuit in an attempt to use only 1 conduit and 1 strand of cable.

Good to know. Thank you! This switch is on its own circuit with nothing else sharing this circuit. I checked at the DB board last time I was there. I'm still leaning towards my theory that this electrician was lazy, realized there was no oven at the time and took a chance with the family member not knowing any better.

That's bad. Chop and retile do it right.....

I agree. The family member does not currently have the finances to do this and buy the oven. I'm a terrible tiler and definitely won't be attempting this (especially against a vertical wall) but I know someone who owes me a favour and might be willing to help her out at a discounted rate.

Thanks for the advice and input everyone.

 

[Steamy Tom]

Any proof of that? Or are you just guessing? It is rated for hot water pipes and permanent bonding.

For the odd connection it's much easier, and just as effective, as soldering.

yeah i have pulled a pipe out that was glued with similar stuff before with my hand

Good to know. Thank you! This switch is on its own circuit with nothing else sharing this circuit. I checked at the DB board last time I was there. I'm still leaning towards my theory that this electrician was lazy, realized there was no oven at the time and took a chance with the family member not knowing any better.



I agree. The family member does not currently have the finances to do this and buy the oven. I'm a terrible tiler and definitely won't be attempting this (especially against a vertical wall) but I know someone who owes me a favour and might be willing to help her out at a discounted rate.

Thanks for the advice and input everyone.

you could also do this without retiling but using a flat strip over it (those stainless metal ones come to mind), i.e grind the slot, knock it out then cover. imo you can also do this with conduit surface mounted.

 

[martin]

you could also do this without retiling but using a flat strip over it (those stainless metal ones come to mind), i.e grind the slot, knock it out then cover. imo you can also do this with conduit surface mounted.

Would surface mounted conduit be considered compliant though? I've seen people neaten up extension cables this way but I worry that it would not be suitable for a stove connection.

 

[Steamy Tom]

Would surface mounted conduit be considered compliant though? I've seen people neaten up extension cables this way but I worry that it would not be suitable for a stove connection.

you can read the rules to confirm but imo yes, the regulation is about safety such as a child being able to touch a bare wire for example, with trunking they cannot. Inverter systems etc are installed surface mount with 10mm cable in trunking carrying a much larger lod.

 

[martin]

you can read the rules to confirm but imo yes, the regulation is about safety such as a child being able to touch a bare wire for example, with trunking they cannot. Inverter systems etc are installed surface mount with 10mm cable in trunking carrying a much larger lod.

Thank you. That's useful to know. I'll see if the regulations make any mention of this.

 

[xrapidx]

Anyone know where to find 16 core alarm wire, drilled through one of the alarm cables today.

 

[WAslayer]

Anyone know where to find 16 core alarm wire, drilled through one of the alarm cables today.

Mantech should have..

 

[alqassam]

20 - Core Solid White | Alarmtec (Pty) Ltd

20 Core Solid cable white These kind of cabling is mostly use for intercom wiring or where a lot of alarm cabling is run surface onto walls or such Video intercom systems long distance but less than 100 meters 100 meter roll

www.alarmtec.co.za

 

[Steamy Tom]

Anyone know where to find 16 core alarm wire, drilled through one of the alarm cables today.

Regal security should have. Are you going to replace the whole cable? Can't you rejoin it?

It is a bit weird to have a 16 core cable running through the house, do you have like 4 sensors in one area?

 

[xrapidx]

Regal security should have. Are you going to replace the whole cable? Can't you rejoin it?

It is a bit weird to have a 16 core cable running through the house, do you have like 4 sensors in one area?

Going to have to rejoin it, will be a complete nightmare redoing the entire run.... It's actually 20 core, checked this morning, but only 10 in use.

It goes to a control panel, door sensor and window sensor.

Will call the alarm company in the morning and see if they can do it, me working with finer things doesn't usually go down well.

Good news is, I finally got PoE to the garage .. and decent camera... Bad news, the orientation is driving insane.

 

[Steamy Tom]

Going to have to rejoin it, will be a complete nightmare redoing the entire run.... It's actually 20 core, checked this morning, but only 10 in use.

It goes to a control panel, door sensor and window sensor.

Will call the alarm company in the morning and see if they can do it, me working with finer things doesn't usually go down well.

Good news is, I finally got PoE to the garage .. and decent camera... Bad news, the orientation is driving insane.

you think you can just rejoin it as is with some slack pulled up or you need to splice in the peice?

 

[xrapidx]

you think you can just rejoin it as is with some slack pulled up or you need to splice in the peice?

Will have to add a piece... The piece that was in the wall is still in the wall

 

[ballboy]

So awesome! Stunning!!

 

[ElixirCoder]

TLDR; I need to replace a deck and thinking of a polished concrete surface. Anyone done something similar?

I have a deck that is in serious disrepair. It's large - about 140sq meters and built around a pool. The deck wood is teak, but the main issue is that about 70 - 80% of the wood is badly cracked and warping, with the entire sub frame disintegrating underneath.

It can't be salvaged without a substantial amount of replacement ... So, I am thinking of alternatives, and need to maintain a good aesthetic as this is the first area of my house seen when entering the property. It is also a core feature to the entertainment area of the house. I am a DIY guy - I don't like paying the man and I am properly skilled in power tools and crafting things by hand.

A while back I visited an acquaintance of a friend of a friend who had a cast concrete floor done on a patio that looked pretty slick. It was ground down (google polished concrete floor) to expose the aggregate and polished to a mirror finish. Obviously I can't go down to a mirror finish given that it is flanking a pool and will be slippery AF when wet. The other challenge is most of the deck is in full sunlight most of the day.

Anyway, fat story thin, has anyone here done something similar? Any advice or things to look out for when doing this?

 

[Smokey mcpot]

TLDR; I need to replace a deck and thinking of a polished concrete surface. Anyone done something similar?

I have a deck that is in serious disrepair. It's large - about 140sq meters and built around a pool. The deck wood is teak, but the main issue is that about 70 - 80% of the wood is badly cracked and warping, with the entire sub frame disintegrating underneath.

It can't be salvaged without a substantial amount of replacement ... So, I am thinking of alternatives, and need to maintain a good aesthetic as this is the first area of my house seen when entering the property. It is also a core feature to the entertainment area of the house. I am a DIY guy - I don't like paying the man and I am properly skilled in power tools and crafting things by hand.

A while back I visited an acquaintance of a friend of a friend who had a cast concrete floor done on a patio that looked pretty slick. It was ground down (google polished concrete floor) to expose the aggregate and polished to a mirror finish. Obviously I can't go down to a mirror finish given that it is flanking a pool and will be slippery AF when wet. The other challenge is most of the deck is in full sunlight most of the day.

Anyway, fat story thin, has anyone here done something similar? Any advice or things to look out for when doing this?

DO the diy Andy once polished add a grip seal coat. This will ensure it's not too slippery and can be maintained easily as the seal is not too pricey and an easy diy

 

[xrapidx]

Replaced the right sink trap, then bought one for the left, and noticed the overflow is connected to the current one, how do I go about replacing it?

 

[Steamy Tom]

Replaced the right sink trap, then bought one for the left, and noticed the overflow is connected to the current one, how do I go about replacing it? View attachment 774878

it looks in good shape, why replace? also what overflow is that, from the sink? i haven't seen an overflow on a sink in forever - or is this a basin?

 

[martin]

Replaced the right sink trap, then bought one for the left, and noticed the overflow is connected to the current one, how do I go about replacing it? View attachment 774878

Franke has these fairly cheap plumbing kits (google "franke spazi") that includes a t-piece manifold: https://plumbitonline.co.za/item/franke__spazi_f_or_2_double_bowl_plumbing_kit_50_or_90mm_outlet


I reckon that unused middle inlet on the manifold would do the trick.

 

[WAslayer]

Franke has these fairly cheap plumbing kits (google "franke spazi") that includes a t-piece manifold: https://plumbitonline.co.za/item/franke__spazi_f_or_2_double_bowl_plumbing_kit_50_or_90mm_outlet
View attachment 774956

I reckon that unused middle inlet on the manifold would do the trick.

This is the worst thing i have ever had the displeasure of having to deal with.. it does not seal properly at all and nearly every joint leaks.. the plastic is very stiff and very smooth and the seals are hard plastic as opposed to a softer rubber.. these two things are what causes the leaking, I believe..

 

[martin]

This is the worst thing i have ever had the displeasure of having to deal with.. it does not seal properly at all and nearly every joint leaks.. the plastic is very stiff and very smooth and the seals are hard plastic as opposed to a softer rubber.. these two things are what causes the leaking, I believe..

Interesting. I recently used these on two basins. The plastic is definitely quite stiff but so far I have not noticed any leaks (it's early days though - we've only had these in for two weeks).