The Home Improvements Thread (2)

[WAslayer]

Interesting. I recently used these on two basins. The plastic is definitely quite stiff but so far I have not noticed any leaks (it's early days though - we've only had these in for two weeks).

I noticed the leaks starting after a few rounds of washing dishes and straining rice etc.. in my case, it appears as though warm water started the issues..

 

[Steamy Tom]

This is the worst thing i have ever had the displeasure of having to deal with.. it does not seal properly at all and nearly every joint leaks.. the plastic is very stiff and very smooth and the seals are hard plastic as opposed to a softer rubber.. these two things are what causes the leaking, I believe..

yeah i like to hard pipe it rather, it is more flexible and cheaper - most importantly no expansion leaks

 

[The_Mowgs]

This is the worst thing i have ever had the displeasure of having to deal with.. it does not seal properly at all and nearly every joint leaks.. the plastic is very stiff and very smooth and the seals are hard plastic as opposed to a softer rubber.. these two things are what causes the leaking, I believe..

Interesting. I recently used these on two basins. The plastic is definitely quite stiff but so far I have not noticed any leaks (it's early days though - we've only had these in for two weeks).

He probably didn't use plumbers tape or the thread stripped from using too much force!

 

[xrapidx]

Franke has these fairly cheap plumbing kits (google "franke spazi") that includes a t-piece manifold: https://plumbitonline.co.za/item/franke__spazi_f_or_2_double_bowl_plumbing_kit_50_or_90mm_outlet
View attachment 774956

I reckon that unused middle inlet on the manifold would do the trick.

*sigh* - looks like a lot of work.

 

[Steamy Tom]

He probably didn't use plumbers tape or the thread stripped from using too much force!

they are compression fittings, you shouldn't use tape. the plastic is so thin though that it expands easily

 

[martin]

I noticed the leaks starting after a few rounds of washing dishes and straining rice etc.. in my case, it appears as though warm water started the issues..

Thank you, I'll be monitoring my setup really closely in that case.

 

[WAslayer]

He probably didn't use plumbers tape or the thread stripped from using too much force!

..

 

[martin]

*sigh* - looks like a lot of work.

Another option is to replace that center horizontal piece with a t-piece and keep the rest of the setup as is.

they are compression fittings, you shouldn't use tape. the plastic is so thin though that it expands easily

Yeah, the instructions made no mention of plumbers tape but I used some anyway.

 

[Steamy Tom]

Another option is to replace that center horizontal piece with a t-piece and keep the rest of the setup as is.
Yeah, the instructions made no mention of plumbers tape but I used some anyway.

that would probably work, just note that pipe is much thinner

 

[ToxicBunny]

Interesting. I recently used these on two basins. The plastic is definitely quite stiff but so far I have not noticed any leaks (it's early days though - we've only had these in for two weeks).

Agreed, I've used those kits a few times, and never had leaks at the joints and such...

Been in my kitchen for nearly 2 years and it hasn't leaked at all.

 

[xrapidx]

Another option is to replace that center horizontal piece with a t-piece and keep the rest of the setup as is.

I was actually thinking of this... might just get a plumber to do it - not really in the mood of wife killing me if I stuff up the cupboards.

 

[martin]

I was actually thinking of this... might just get a plumber to do it - not really in the mood of wife killing me if I stuff up the cupboards.

I'm never in the mood for plumbing. Probably my least favourite DIY jobs along with chasing.

 

[Steamy Tom]

I'm never in the mood for plumbing. Probably my least favourite DIY jobs along with chasing.

external plumbing work like this is the easiest

 

[martin]

Some of my tools have disappeared after a recent renovation. Thankfully they weren't particularly pricey. I ask the following questions with the appropriate amount of caution:

1. Which 18v cordless drill would you recommend and why?
2. Are laser levels worth purchasing? Which brand/model would you recommend?

Current use cases: I need to install wall-mounted drying racks as well as curtain rails and will be drilling into both tile and masonry. My house was built with mampara clay bricks which are challenging to drill into. I'll also be drilling into some pressed wood using hole saws.

I don't mind recommendations of lesser-known brands if you believe the quality to be good enough. It would also be awesome if this post does not devolve into brand fights.

 

[Steamy Tom]

Some of my tools have disappeared after a recent renovation. Thankfully they weren't particularly pricey. I ask the following questions with the appropriate amount of caution:

1. Which 18v cordless drill would you recommend and why?
2. Are laser levels worth purchasing? Which brand/model would you recommend?

Current use cases: I need to install wall-mounted drying racks as well as curtain rails and will be drilling into both tile and masonry. My house was built with mampara clay bricks which are challenging to drill into. I'll also be drilling into some pressed wood using hole saws.

I don't mind recommendations of lesser-known brands if you believe the quality to be good enough. It would also be awesome if this post does not devolve into brand fights.

does it have to be cordless? cordless is nice and handy, especially if you are a trade guy or a constant diy project guy, but for tiles/masonary you imo want corded.

the laser level, again imo if you will use it over and over then sure, otherwise i would use a manual one or measurements (sometimes things arent straight, so you would want to match the skewness, eg a ceiling line or a tiling line)

 

[martin]

does it have to be cordless? cordless is nice and handy, especially if you are a trade guy or a constant diy project guy, but for tiles/masonary you imo want corded.

Nope, it definitely doesn't have to be but it's more than likely going to be if I don't find a compelling reason to avoid cordless. While you'll never mistake me for a trade guy my tools are used a lot between my own home, my sister's place and both sets of parents. I mainly buy cheap tools that get the job done and save up to buy nice tools once the crappy ones are not worth repairing any more (or find new homes in this particular case). I bought my previous drill eight years ago so I have enough saved up in my tool fund for something nicer now and I reckon I've paid my drilling dues at this point in time. I don't want to drag around electrical cords any more if I can help it.

the laser level, again imo if you will use it over and over then sure, otherwise i would use a manual one or measurements (sometimes things arent straight, so you would want to match the skewness, eg a ceiling line or a tiling line)

As above it will see plenty of use but you raise a good point regarding floors, walls, and ceilings not being square. I simply assumed you could adjust a laser level to be square relative to the surface you planned to use it on?

 

[Steamy Tom]

Nope, it definitely doesn't have to be but it's more than likely going to be if I don't find a compelling reason to avoid cordless. While you'll never mistake me for a trade guy my tools are used a lot between my own home, my sister's place and both sets of parents. I mainly buy cheap tools that get the job done and save up to buy nice tools once the crappy ones are not worth repairing any more (or find new homes in this particular case). I bought my previous drill eight years ago so I have enough saved up in my tool fund for something nicer now and I reckon I've paid my drilling dues at this point in time. I don't want to drag around electrical cords any more if I can help it.



As above it will see plenty of use but you raise a good point regarding floors, walls, and ceilings not being square. I simply assumed you could adjust a laser level to be square relative to the surface you planned to use it on?

for example your floor and ceiling might not be square, but you would want to adjust a high item to the roof rather than the floor as it is what the eye will see

 

[Dolby]

Has anyone here bought a simple illuminated mirror for the bathroom ?
I'm guessing they run on batteries, not power (as it's in the bathroom)?
They decent or gimmicky?

 

[Dolby]

Oh.

LINEA LUCE - LED MIRROR 600MMX800MM IR SENSOR MIRROR

LINEA LUCE - LED MIRROR 600MMX800MM IR SENSOR

sanmarcotiles.co.za

Requires electrical connection

 

[WAslayer]

Has anyone here bought a simple illuminated mirror for the bathroom ?
I'm guessing they run on batteries, not power (as it's in the bathroom)?
They decent or gimmicky?

You are allowed electricity in the bathroom, provided it's at least 500mm from any source s of water..