The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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Weirdly, our oven doesn't have an isolator switch - and the renovation received a CoC - and was inspected by the city.

On the electrical side - does anyone have a "dummies" guide type tutorial to electrics?
 
xrapidx said:
Weirdly, our oven doesn't have an isolator switch - and the renovation received a CoC - and was inspected by the city.

On the electrical side - does anyone have a "dummies" guide type tutorial to electrics?
Click to expand...

is your DB board openly accessible close by?
 
xrapidx said:
Its on the other side of the wall, in the garage - if it were an emergency - you wouldn't get there easily.
Click to expand...

yeah that doesn't sound like it meets regulations then, COC's are only worth the guy who does them
 
martin said:
Disclaimer: when it comes to anything electric I know just enough to be a danger to myself and those in the surrounding area, so in the spirit of "there are no stupid questions", I need some advice on the following:

A family member has only been using induction plates for cooking for some time now but has saved up enough for a new oven (not purchased yet). Their kitchen has an isolator switch but bizarrely, there is nowhere to connect the stove's wiring too? I have no idea if this was an oversight, incompetence or simply not a requirement to obtain a CoC at the time (yes, they are in possession of a CoC issued in 2019).

I reckon there may be two options that would not involve chasing and re-tiling. Let me know if I've missed the boat completely on this one though:
  1. Buy a plug-in oven (I don't even know if that is the correct term?). I've read that as long as the draw is less than 16 Amps this is a viable option (I read this on an American forum though). Apparently, Bosch sells some energy-efficient units that can be plugged into a regular socket. Struggling to find which models in particular online but I have not spent a huge amount of time searching.
    1. If this is an option, should that wall socket be on its own circuit?
  2. The other option is to install something like this and run the wiring directly from the isolator itself to the oven:View attachment 772252

I have no clue how feasible (or compliant) the second option is. I also urge you to read my disclaimer at the top again before being tempted to tell me how little I know - I'm painfully aware but hoping to learn.
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If you remove the cover of the isolator are many conduits are connected to do box and where do they lead to?
 
Steamy Tom said:
yeah that doesn't sound like it meets regulations then, COC's are only worth the guy who does them
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Well, this was a dodgy builder - so it only makes sense he used dodgy electricians. He also used a dodgy plumber, which ended up with him having to redo all the plumbing with a more reputable plumber.

A gas compliance certificate was also issued, I would have thought the electrical connection would come into play for that as well. (gas guy was more above board - refused to do his CoC before the builder was finished - builder kept trying to get him to "just-issue" it)
 
alqassam said:
If you remove the cover of the isolator are many conduits are connected to do box and where do they lead to?
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I suspect auto-correct messed with that reply. I'm not completely sure I understand what you're asking, could you repost the question if you don't mind?
 
martin said:
I suspect auto-correct messed with that reply. I'm not completely sure I understand what you're asking, could you repost the question if you don't mind?
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He wants to know how many conduits in the isolater box, and where they go.
 
Fsking autocorrect.

Yes perhaps they put the conduit and have not wired to the stove/oven area.
 
How difficult is it to solder copper pipes for plumbing?

Plumber wants R1500 to connect a low pressure geyser which is basically just an inlet and outlet. It's on top of a flat roof so it should be easy to spot any leaks
 
alqassam said:
How difficult is it to solder copper pipes for plumbing?

Plumber wants R1500 to connect a low pressure geyser which is basically just an inlet and outlet. It's on top of a flat roof so it should be easy to spot any leaks
Click to expand...

it is really not that hard, especially since it is outside i would do it, watch some vids and learn the tricks, particularly prep (cleaning burrs and the pipe) and allowing the solder to suck itself in by heating the joint as well as not quenching it etc.
 
alqassam said:
Fsking autocorrect.

Yes perhaps they put the conduit and have not wired to the stove/oven area.
Click to expand...

Feedback on yesterday's question. I have some photos to share with the thread. We'll file these under the category: "What the faaark was this 'electrician' thinking?"

772986

772988

The wiring terminates at the isolator switch??? As you can tell from the photos there are no additional conduits that the wiring leads to - it ends at the switch. WTF? I confirmed, this was installed by certified electrician. What's the point of this if it doesn't control anything?

At the moment, I want to advise this family member to consider swapping out this isolator for a regular outlet because this switch is purely ornamental. Before doing this I first need to determine whether a plug-in oven is also required to a have isolator switch. I popped in to Hirch's yesterday and discovered that all their Bosch built-in ovens plug into a normal outlet so I'm hoping this could be a cost-effective solution.
 
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alqassam said:
How difficult is it to solder copper pipes for plumbing?

Plumber wants R1500 to connect a low pressure geyser which is basically just an inlet and outlet. It's on top of a flat roof so it should be easy to spot any leaks
Click to expand...

Just For Copper 10g | Cashbuild

Specifications: • Copper Adhesive. Features: • Copper Joining Glue. Quantity Supplied : • 1
www.cashbuildonline.co.za www.cashbuildonline.co.za

Should be easy to find. Works like a charm.
 
If I have learnt anything in renovations, its not to trust the color of the wire. Just because that isolator has a black and a red wire, does not mean it is a live and neutral. It could be used to switch the circuit in an attempt to use only 1 conduit and 1 strand of cable.
martin said:
Feedback on yesterday's question. I have some photos to share with the thread. We'll file these under the category: "What the faaark was this 'electrician' thinking?"

View attachment 772986

View attachment 772988

The wiring terminates at the isolator switch??? As you can tell from the photos there are no additional conduits that the wiring leads to - it ends at the switch. WTF? I confirmed, this was installed by certified electrician. What's the point of this if it doesn't control anything?

At the moment, I want to advise this family member to consider swapping out this isolator for a regular outlet because this switch is purely ornamental at the moment. Before doing this I first need to determine whether a plug-in oven is also required to a have isolator switch. I popped in to Hirch's yesterday and discovered that all their Bosch built-in ovens plug into a normal outlet so I'm hoping this could be a cost-effective solution.
Click to expand...
 
Steamy Tom said:
be a man, man. in seriousness though, this will not have the longevity of a solder, especially on a hot water pipe exposed to the elements.
Click to expand...

Any proof of that? Or are you just guessing? It is rated for hot water pipes and permanent bonding.

For the odd connection it's much easier, and just as effective, as soldering.
 
martin said:
Feedback on yesterday's question. I have some photos to share with the thread. We'll file these under the category: "What the faaark was this 'electrician' thinking?"

View attachment 772986

View attachment 772988

The wiring terminates at the isolator switch??? As you can tell from the photos there are no additional conduits that the wiring leads to - it ends at the switch. WTF? I confirmed, this was installed by certified electrician. What's the point of this if it doesn't control anything?

At the moment, I want to advise this family member to consider swapping out this isolator for a regular outlet because this switch is purely ornamental at the moment. Before doing this I first need to determine whether a plug-in oven is also required to a have isolator switch. I popped in to Hirch's yesterday and discovered that all their Bosch built-in ovens plug into a normal outlet so I'm hoping this could be a cost-effective solution.
Click to expand...
That's bad. Chop and retile do it right.....
 
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