The Home Improvements Thread (2)

Status
Not open for further replies.
WAslayer said:
You need to find and affix the loose parts of the pipe, which is moving when the washing machine closes its valve after filling..
Click to expand...
Ended up fixing this today by buying some Mitek from Buco and some long nails. Will give the machine a whirl again sometime and see if it’s sorted out.

I tried reproducing the issue by opening a tap all the way and shutting it real fast (mixer tap), but I couldn’t emulate the sound. That solenoid that controls the washing machine inlet must be damn quick
 
PhireSide said:
Ended up fixing this today by buying some Mitek from Buco and some long nails. Will give the machine a whirl again sometime and see if it’s sorted out.

I tried reproducing the issue by opening a tap all the way and shutting it real fast (mixer tap), but I couldn’t emulate the sound. That solenoid that controls the washing machine inlet must be damn quick
Click to expand...
The solenoid would be virtually instant..
 
Mosgi said:
Looks I've never really been going me to judge a person by their ability to be accurate on quote...

Anyway thoughts on the quote below - it's around 350sqm of steel roof with a 20 off degree pitch.

This quote excludes materials - and I own the scaffolding the charge noted is to setup and dismantle my own...

This worked out to 5x the cost of the next quote. Also I have my own industrial size pressure cleaner.



7d1f955fe698b12da8547568100a849e.jpg
Click to expand...
Quote is actually very good.
Maybe too good.
How do you apply 2 coats of good quality roof paint for only R85/m2.

But I wouldn't accept the Quote.

When a guy can't spell 'Pressure' how good can his 'Presser' washing be?
 
Mannydefreitas said:
Quote is actually very good.
Maybe too good.
How do you apply 2 coats of good quality roof paint for only R85/m2.

But I wouldn't accept the Quote.

When a guy can't spell 'Pressure' how good can his 'Presser' washing be?
Click to expand...
The quote excludes materials..
 
WAslayer said:
The quote excludes materials..
Click to expand...
Then I definately wouldn't accept it.

I have other issues with it:
He is going to lightly sand the roof ~ surely all rust should be removed.
If there is no rust ~ why sand.

Also, no decent contractor let's the client supply all materials.

But his pricing suggests he doesn't either...
 
xrapidx said:
Way I read it 100,000 / 240 = 416m2

I've never actually worked out the wall m2 of a property, so no idea if that's a realistic number.

I'll probably do it over the weekend. My house has many corners, so a pain to do
Click to expand...
I’ve done mine.

R1500 for a Bosch pressure washer.
R1500 for a Bosch spray gun. Using the spray gun for harder to paint areas like pipes and corners.

Rollers, crack fillers, scrapers etc, about R1000.

Undercoat. Used Fire and earth 5 in 1. 20 liter.
4 x R1000
Put 2 coats on the crappy areas and then spot primed where needed.

Paint. Micatex 20 litre exterior.
7 x R1100.

Used a guy to help me on weekends.
 
Need advice on repairing concrete wash trough. There are no major leaks. It's only the metal beams beneath the casting that is starting to become exposed. Will tile cement and plaster key do the job?

WhatsApp Image 2023-08-28 at 10.26.15.jpeg
 
SHL said:
Need advice on repairing concrete wash trough. There are no major leaks. It's only the metal beams beneath the casting that is starting to become exposed. Will tile cement and plaster key do the job?

View attachment 1578100
Click to expand...
Definitely need to open up the exposed bits a bit more, so you can get a good amount of filler in there and it has more surface area to bond to.. also use some rust converter on the rebar before filling in..

As for filler, I wouldn't say tile cement is right for the job.. ready mix plaster, followed by a waterproofing agent, something like one suitable for ponds..
 
  • Like
Reactions: SHL
My shower floor which is cement and pieces of tile has what seems to be become pourus and water is leaking to the walls around and outside the shower.

Anyone used a sealant product inside the shower on the floor that actually works?
 
SHL said:
Need advice on repairing concrete wash trough. There are no major leaks. It's only the metal beams beneath the casting that is starting to become exposed. Will tile cement and plaster key do the job?

View attachment 1578100
Click to expand...
Bliksem how many washes had that through had?
 
  • Haha
Reactions: SHL
Hemi300c said:
My shower floor which is cement and pieces of tile has what seems to be become pourus and water is leaking to the walls around and outside the shower.

Anyone used a sealant product inside the shower on the floor that actually works?
Click to expand...

It's either seeping through the floor or there is plumbing leak at the trap.
I've repaired dozens of these - more often a plumbing issue.
But it doesn't matter, the solution is the same:
  • Carefully chop up the shower floor.
  • Fit a new shower trap - correctly.
  • Cast a new concrete floor leaving it about 20mm lower than required.
  • Apply a 5 - 10mm thick screed using Coprox Waterproofing additive - correctly.
  • Re-Mosaic using Mosaic Fix - add Bonding Liquid to the Mosaic Fix.
 
I have a 2.7m x 0.6m x 3cm pine desk top I'm re-purposing that I want to attach to the wall - and put legs in the front. I'm looking for a beam to mount against the wall for it to rest on - if anyone has experience with this sort of thing, a size recommendation for the beam would be great. (I'll probably do two sections - one on each side - so was thinking of 2x 1m long pieces, reason for this, I have cable holes in the center at the bank.


Plan on using legs similiar to this, one on each side - or three in total - depending on how they handle the weight.
 
Last edited:
xrapidx said:
I have a 2.7m x 0.6cm x 3cm pine desk top I'm re-purposing that I want to attach to the wall - and put legs in the front. I'm looking for a beam to mount against the wall for it to rest on - if anyone has experience with this sort of thing, a size recommendation for the beam would be great. (I'll probably do two sections - one on each side - so was thinking of 2x 1m long pieces, reason for this, I have cable holes in the center at the bank.


Plan on using legs similiar to this, one on each side - or three in total - depending on how they handle the weight.
Click to expand...
Pretty much any width beam that's about 30mm thick will suffice.. attach to the wall with some coach screws.. I would suggest doing a single 2m length though, just to avoid potential sagging in the middle..

Also, those linked legs are pretty tall.. look for something around 700mm or so..
 
WAslayer said:
Pretty much any width beam that's about 30mm thick will suffice.. attach to the wall with some coach screws.. I would suggest doing a single 2m length though, just to avoid potential sagging in the middle..

Also, those linked legs are pretty tall.. look for something around 700mm or so..
Click to expand...
Yeh, looking at 700m - was too lazy to google for one :D

A single beam will cover the cable holes, they're quite far back - almost flush with the edge - happy how-ever to do 1m on each side though.
 
Mannydefreitas said:
Are those measurements correct?
2.7m long.
But 6mm x 30mm?
Click to expand...
Urgh - 60cm x 3cm - meant to type 0.6m

Basically this desk from my old office that I'm attempting to use in my new office that my wife is moving into.

Previously it was cut to the width of the room and mounted with shelving brackets - I'd like to do it differently this time, as the room is 1.5m wider than the desk.

IMG_20170215_162648.jpg


Capture.PNG
 
Last edited:
xrapidx said:
Yeh, looking at 700m - was too lazy to google for one :D

A single beam will cover the cable holes, they're quite far back - almost flush with the edge - happy how-ever to do 1m on each side though.
Click to expand...
Be extra precise when mounting in that case, ensure both are level at the same height..
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X