The Home Improvements Thread (3)

Wrath of Khan said:
you're stuck with the popcorn effect for now unless you want to replaster, which you can over that but is it really neccesary?

1) you don't need to remove all the paint, just brush it with a wire brush to remove loose flaky pieces.
2) You can then use a plaster primer on the wall
3) and then a universal undercoat
4) then you can paint the wall
Click to expand...

no no, the popcorn effect isn't a "visual" issue

it's that it prevents me from just using a scraper to scrape all the paint off (gets stuck on every little uneven bump"

I am scared that if I only remove the flaking areas, when I go to paint over it, the 'gaps' will become more prominent with the new paint layer

the paints I was going to use are these 2:
www.chamberlains.co.za

Duram Plaster Primer White 5L

Duram Plaster Primer White 5L is a high-quality water-based primer specifically designed to seal and prepare new or unpainted plaster, masonry, and cement surfaces before applying topcoats. This essential primer ensures optimal paint adhesion and a professional, long-lasting finish on porous...
www.chamberlains.co.za www.chamberlains.co.za
www.chamberlains.co.za

Duram Bathroom & Kitchen White 1L

Duram Bathroom & Kitchen White 1L is a high-quality acrylic sealant specifically formulated for sealing and waterproofing in wet areas such as bathrooms and kitchens. This flexible sealant provides excellent adhesion and a professional finish for joints and gaps around baths, showers, basins...
www.chamberlains.co.za www.chamberlains.co.za

I am liking the Duram range stuff that I have used so far so trying to stick with that range
 
Off-The-Chart said:
no no, the popcorn effect isn't a "visual" issue

it's that it prevents me from just using a scraper to scrape all the paint off (gets stuck on every little uneven bump"

I am scared that if I only remove the flaking areas, when I go to paint over it, the 'gaps' will become more prominent with the new paint layer

the paints I was going to use are these 2:
www.chamberlains.co.za

Duram Plaster Primer White 5L

Duram Plaster Primer White 5L is a high-quality water-based primer specifically designed to seal and prepare new or unpainted plaster, masonry, and cement surfaces before applying topcoats. This essential primer ensures optimal paint adhesion and a professional, long-lasting finish on porous...
www.chamberlains.co.za www.chamberlains.co.za
www.chamberlains.co.za

Duram Bathroom & Kitchen White 1L

Duram Bathroom & Kitchen White 1L is a high-quality acrylic sealant specifically formulated for sealing and waterproofing in wet areas such as bathrooms and kitchens. This flexible sealant provides excellent adhesion and a professional finish for joints and gaps around baths, showers, basins...
www.chamberlains.co.za www.chamberlains.co.za

I am liking the Duram range stuff that I have used so far so trying to stick with that range
Click to expand...
Paint the patches first with a brush, to fill it a bit and then paint the entire wall..
 
after your plaster primer... universal undercoat (that helps paints adhere to it)
I also wouldn't bother with that bathroom magic paint, it's quite a high gloss and you're paying more for it... I painted that on my ceiling in the bathroom to prevent mould, yeah no painted over it straight away because it was shiny.

you don't need to scrape the paint back to the plaster, just a wire brush and in 5min all the loose flakey bits are gone, the paint that remains is no problem at all.
 
Had the Jojos hooked up to the house last month. Fed with municipal water, just a backup for the week-long annual outage in Ekurhuleni.

But now while running on municipal supply with the feed from the Jojos off, I've noticed pretty severe water hammer.
Now a loud sound reverbs through the houses pipes when closing any tap fast (and especially the washing machine when it starts).

Suspect that it's something to do with the NRV fitted on the municipal line that we never had before.
Think I'm going to have to get a plumber to have a look and see if there's a water hammer arrestor that can be fitted, or perhaps the municipal feed is too high and the house needs a PRV, cant recall ever seeing one.
 
NR7 said:
Had the Jojos hooked up to the house last month. Fed with municipal water, just a backup for the week-long annual outage in Ekurhuleni.

But now while running on municipal supply with the feed from the Jojos off, I've noticed pretty severe water hammer.
Now a loud sound reverbs through the houses pipes when closing any tap fast (and especially the washing machine when it starts).

Suspect that it's something to do with the NRV fitted on the municipal line that we never had before.
Think I'm going to have to get a plumber to have a look and see if there's a water hammer arrestor that can be fitted, or perhaps the municipal feed is too high and the house needs a PRV, cant recall ever seeing one.
Click to expand...

but did you have this issue before the Jojos got hooked up?

does sound like a PCV

when plumbers came to change some pipes, the guy mentioned people getting that vibration from high feed

but weird if you only get it now and not before the tanks were hooked up
 
Off-The-Chart said:
no no, the popcorn effect isn't a "visual" issue

it's that it prevents me from just using a scraper to scrape all the paint off (gets stuck on every little uneven bump"

I am scared that if I only remove the flaking areas, when I go to paint over it, the 'gaps' will become more prominent with the new paint layer

the paints I was going to use are these 2:
www.chamberlains.co.za

Duram Plaster Primer White 5L

Duram Plaster Primer White 5L is a high-quality water-based primer specifically designed to seal and prepare new or unpainted plaster, masonry, and cement surfaces before applying topcoats. This essential primer ensures optimal paint adhesion and a professional, long-lasting finish on porous...
www.chamberlains.co.za www.chamberlains.co.za
www.chamberlains.co.za

Duram Bathroom & Kitchen White 1L

Duram Bathroom & Kitchen White 1L is a high-quality acrylic sealant specifically formulated for sealing and waterproofing in wet areas such as bathrooms and kitchens. This flexible sealant provides excellent adhesion and a professional finish for joints and gaps around baths, showers, basins...
www.chamberlains.co.za www.chamberlains.co.za

I am liking the Duram range stuff that I have used so far so trying to stick with that range
Click to expand...
Rent an HP machine with a power nozzle? Will blast off any loose paint
 
Fun times - my geyser burst today and I'm busy arranging with insurance for a replacement.

I currently have a 150L geyser. Is it worth upgrading to a 200L one while I'm at it?
 
Not ever run out of hot water no, that's with it running 24/7.

But yes, it likes to chow power... I'm feeling dumb, please explain the part about the geyser using too much power - how does that correlate to size?
 
ny152 said:
Not ever run out of hot water no, that's with it running 24/7.

But yes, it likes to chow power... I'm feeling dumb, please explain the part about the geyser using too much power - how does that correlate to size?
Click to expand...
More volume to heat, more electricity used .
 
Need to redo the outside municipal pavement section of our house. All grass we had destroyed by both Eskom and CoJ in the past few years. It's completely barren, and Eskom (or their contractor) has not remediated it. I waited a year.

It's about 20m x 2.5m I guess.

Area is flat and just sand now (with small weeds).

What is cheaper to do? Re lay grass or use a combination of large square slabs and small stones, or just gravel. Want people to be able to park there and want to do it as cheaply as possible.

There is irrigation system installed which I need to fix. Was newly installed , just before the fsckers called govt came and ruined everything.
 
ny152 said:
Fun times - my geyser burst today and I'm busy arranging with insurance for a replacement.

I currently have a 150L geyser. Is it worth upgrading to a 200L one while I'm at it?
Click to expand...
Insurance will only pay out on the 150l. I’d go 200 just because they are way better insulated these days and hold their heat well.
Be sure to use a registered plumber and get a COC when done.
 
ny152 said:
Fun times - my geyser burst today and I'm busy arranging with insurance for a replacement.

I currently have a 150L geyser. Is it worth upgrading to a 200L one while I'm at it?
Click to expand...
I went through this a year or so ago.

At the time the family size was growing and I wanted more hot water.
Insurance appointed a plumber, Iasked to upgrade to 200l.
Plumber fitted and i had to pay the difference in price between a 150l and 200l
Insurance covered the rest of the bill.
 
The average person would use (summer) 50 liter and (winter) 75 liter of hot water.
So a 150 liter geyser should be adequate for a family of 3 in summer with maybe running short in winter.
 
I can't find another thread close to what I need,

My front door key keeps on getting stuck opening and closing I think it's the cold weather and the fact it's easily over 40 years old.
Any suggestions on what to use on the lock?

I only have WD40 on the lock and only afterward read online that doesn't help I think ive made it worse any help would be great
 
purple face said:
I can't find another thread close to what I need,

My front door key keeps on getting stuck opening and closing I think it's the cold weather and the fact it's easily over 40 years old.
Any suggestions on what to use on the lock?

I only have WD40 on the lock and only afterward read online that doesn't help I think ive made it worse any help would be great
Click to expand...
Is it a lever lock or cylinder..? Builders has Yale lock lubricant which you can give a try..

Unlikely to be the cold though, probably just dirty..
 
purple face said:
I can't find another thread close to what I need,

My front door key keeps on getting stuck opening and closing I think it's the cold weather and the fact it's easily over 40 years old.
Any suggestions on what to use on the lock?

I only have WD40 on the lock and only afterward read online that doesn't help I think ive made it worse any help would be great
Click to expand...

Out of curiosity is it just attachment to an over 40 year old lock or you truly believe there is nothing better?
 
purple face said:
I can't find another thread close to what I need,

My front door key keeps on getting stuck opening and closing I think it's the cold weather and the fact it's easily over 40 years old.
Any suggestions on what to use on the lock?

I only have WD40 on the lock and only afterward read online that doesn't help I think ive made it worse any help would be great
Click to expand...

Weird euphemism but I will roll with it. It's caused by menopause and you could use some KY.





In seriousness though I would start by inspecting the key, does it look like it could be worn or broken in any small way? Do you perhaps have a spare or notice any difference between different keys for the same lock?

Yes WD40 isn't the best thing to use, you should just change the lock, hard to believe it hasn't been changed in 40 years.

Is the issue with putting the key in or turning the lock? What kind of lock?
 
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