All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

[Kosmik]

Your main eskom wire comes in and gets split (parallel seperation): 1 goes to inverter and 1 goes to non essential db.
The ct coil is placed around the wire ahead of this split.
The ct tells your inverter how much power is being drawn feom eskom and then the inverter backfeeds equivalent or less power which gets absorbed by the nearest requirement ie your non essentials
So very little will go back past your eskom meter

Ok that makes sense then. If it detects nothing, it won't backfeed anything because it thinks nothing is being drawn from the grid or very little ( 100w ) . Also why the load circuit works because it detects gridloss and supplies correctly. Wonder if the CT is faulty then to only give a reading of 100w to 200w.

This is the issue then?



You say before the split, I'm willing to bet the sparky put it after on the inverters aplit and that's why it only shows the minimal needed by the inverter to watch phase, not the house.

 

[Kosmik]

Folks, can I ask someone with a deye to send me a pic of the system when running on grid and then off.

I just want to see the two icons, grid and home but I suspect I've found the issue and they will need to resolve.

 

[Speedster]

Folks, can I ask someone with a deye to send me a pic of the system when running on grid and then off.

I just want to see the two icons, grid and home but I suspect I've found the issue and they will need to resolve.

Which screen are you wanting - just the main screen?

 

[Fcon_Vpro]

Folks, can I ask someone with a deye to send me a pic of the system when running on grid and then off.

I just want to see the two icons, grid and home but I suspect I've found the issue and they will need to resolve.

Check Mike's thread:

Mike's (non-Sunsynk) System

So I didn't really want to start a new thread, but figured this would be helpful for those who don't really want to go the Powerforum/Sunsynk route. Got my system through Solar Advice. Consists of: Deye 8kW inverter 2 x Dyness 4.8kWh LiFePo4 batteries 14 x 455W JA Panels The plan is to run the...

mybroadband.co.za

Think that post shows with no grid
Go through a bit further to possibly find more info

Ok that makes sense then. If it detects nothing, it won't backfeed anything because it thinks nothing is being drawn from the grid or very little ( 100w ) . Also why the load circuit works because it detects gridloss and supplies correctly. Wonder if the CT is faulty then to only give a reading of 100w to 200w.

This is the issue then?

View attachment 1498431

You say before the split, I'm willing to bet the sparky put it after on the inverters aplit and that's why it only shows the minimal needed by the inverter to watch phase, not the house.

Sounds like it might be at the wrong spot

 

[Kosmik]

Which screen are you wanting - just the main screen?

Yep, the one that has on the right grid and home, left has panels and battery, with inverter in center.

 

[Speedster]

Yep, the one that has on the right grid and home, left has panels and battery, with inverter in center.

Here's the on-grid one. Just seen my batteries are at their end, so can't turn the grid off right now.

 

[Kosmik]

Here's the on-grid one. Just seen my batteries are at their end, so can't turn the grid off right now.

View attachment 1498449

Yeah but I can see your grid draw, battery take and balance going to the house. That's what I'd expect.

Do you reckon its right though? That your home is only drawing 800w? Geyser? Stove? Fridges?

@Fcon_Vpro I see in Mike's thread his had the same display as mine pre config so maybe it is something. His later displays show the draws on app.



@Mike Hoxbig does yours still show like that still or did they tweak something? I saw you mentioned your CT a few times?

I see your later ones have the display but what's the "smart"?

 

[Speedster]

Yeah but I can see your grid draw, battery take and balance going to the house. That's what I'd expect.

Do you reckon its right though? That your home is only drawing 800w? Geyser? Stove? Fridges?

@Fcon_Vpro I see in Mike's thread his had the same display as mine pre config so maybe it is something. His later displays show the draws on app.

View attachment 1498453

@Mike Hoxbig does yours still show like that still or did they tweak something? I saw you mentioned your CT a few times?

Yeah. 800w is about right. Geysers are set to run late morning so they're not drawing anything now. Stove is gas (but dinner is done anyway). So 800w is for the fridges, TVs, lights and such. That'll drop down to about 200W when we head off to bed.

 

[Speedster]

There are two pairs of cables. One from mains/eskom and one to the DB (essentials). The cable pair from mains is connected to non-essentials in your DB and the other pair is connected to essentials. The same cable that supplies power from Eskom supplies power to essentials from the inverter based on the demand read by the CT.

I think you mean non-essentials

 

[Speedster]

Something wrong here:

View attachment 1498467

That's not a CT issue, it's not registering anything on the load. What firmware are you on?
Your installer needs to fix that.
If you drop Eskom, do you stay up? Could be a number of things including firmware update or factory reset / reprogram required.

Yeah. That's been puzzling me all along too. @Kosmik, perhaps an obvious question, but does your house have power from the inverter during load shedding?

 

[Speedster]

Both in and out show no arrows as if the inverter is isolated from the home and Eskom. That's not normal. Grid side is correct for load shedding, but no load from the home is not normal. I can't think of any settings that would cause that hence my suspicion that there's a firmware or config issue. It might just need an LCD update.

@kosmic try resetting your LCD:
Hold down esc for 15 seconds

There was a small amount coming in from the grid on an earlier image. Only thing I can think of is that everything is connected to grid and there is nothing connected on the load side.

 

[Mike Hoxbig]

@Fcon_Vpro I see in Mike's thread his had the same display as mine pre config so maybe it is something. His later displays show the draws on app.

View attachment 1498453

@Mike Hoxbig does yours still show like that still or did they tweak something? I saw you mentioned your CT a few times?

Yeah that was before they connected the DB up. Just connected up the panels and batteries, and they came to do the DB connection the next day.

In your case it seems like there is some grid draw, just nothing being pushed from the AC side of the inverter to the load.

The CT issue I had was the inverter was too far from the DB so they didn't install it with the system. They came back a few months later to sort that out, and a month after that I moved everything to essentials anyway after a few outages left us with cold water.

I suspect in your case it's the AC side of the inverter not connected properly to the load. Which is weird because that's the basics of connecting an inverter. Everything wired up correctly should look like this...

 

[Mike Hoxbig]

There was a small amount coming in from the grid on an earlier image. Only thing I can think of is that everything is connected to grid and there is nothing connected on the load side.

If the CT is wired correctly he should still see something on the load side since it's set to zero export to CT.

Could also be looking at a combination of CT installed in the wrong direction and everything connected to grid.

I would start with removing the CT, then moving everything to the load. Confirm that's working then split essentials and non-essentials. Then install the CT last...

 

[Kosmik]

Yeah. 800w is about right. Geysers are set to run late morning so they're not drawing anything now. Stove is gas (but dinner is done anyway). So 800w is for the fridges, TVs, lights and such. That'll drop down to about 200W when we head off to bed.

Not being offensive but should your batteries be run down to 10%? Most I see have safety cut at 20%?

Yeah. That's been puzzling me all along too. @Kosmik, perhaps an obvious question, but does your house have power from the inverter during load shedding?

In the test of killing the mains, yes. AND then you see the draw on the house image which appears correct as I switched appliances on and off and the figures changed.

It could be a firmware thing, they have yet to come and sort the wifi connectivity and software, that's the final tech to come. So right now, from what I can see:

1. Panels are supplying power to inverter correctly
2. Batteries are topping up and showing available.
3. If grid supply is cut manually ( mains off ) , the inverter kicks in and draws from the battery and the Load bearing circuits all work ( essential as they say ).

The only funny is that the "excess" is showing as negative on the battery vs output to the house and I am not seeing the grid draw on the houseside save for 100/200W. My suspicion is around the CT being incorrectly placed\wired and the inverter simply is not aware of the grid load requested so it doesn't know how much power to supply back to the house and for safeties sake, does not output any power to the house EXCEPT in grid failure.

 

[Kosmik]

I see some similar issues on the support forum where the support peeps are telling them to update firmware first then factory reset. Of course make sure cables are connected to load first

@kosmic, if you want, take the small bottom cover off and take a pic for us, particularly where the AC comes in. No worries if you're not comfortable doing it.

If it was my system I would but its a rental and I don't want them moaning/groaning about taking covers off etc. I'm mainly curious as I was tempted for years to look at doing it myself but I don't have the funds and am happier doing it this way rather. Later if I want to, I will invest in a system or consider purchasing it but with the government instabilities and other concerns, happy to just pay a flat fee.



That was pre-db connection, there is a red light on the left panel indicating Eskom load. I'll take a more recent one but that's the only visual difference from the outside.

 

[Speedster]

Not being offensive but should your batteries be run down to 10%? Most I see have safety cut at 20%?

They're rated for 95% DoD. I only use them to 90% so figure that's still plenty safe and should give me many thousands of cycles.

 

[Kosmik]

Yeah that was before they connected the DB up. Just connected up the panels and batteries, and they came to do the DB connection the next day.

In your case it seems like there is some grid draw, just nothing being pushed from the AC side of the inverter to the load.

The CT issue I had was the inverter was too far from the DB so they didn't install it with the system. They came back a few months later to sort that out, and a month after that I moved everything to essentials anyway after a few outages left us with cold water.

I suspect in your case it's the AC side of the inverter not connected properly to the load. Which is weird because that's the basics of connecting an inverter. Everything wired up correctly should look like this...

View attachment 1498477

Mike, those screenshots that show smart on the screen, is that something you added or when does that appear?

 

[Mike Hoxbig]

Mike, those screenshots that show smart on the screen, is that something you added or when does that appear?

Wouldn't worry about that, was just testing that the aux port worked...

 

[ghaye]

My battery is rated for 200A and FW includes a 100A breaker.

The 100A breaker is for the DC current. I stand to be corrected but I believe the inverter charge amp settings is for AC current.

 

[Kosmik]

So just a quick glance at the settings, from my understanding, for the inverter to fedback succesfully, two criteria are needed:

1. Detections draw from the grid so that the system is aware how much it can safely provide.
2. It must output at a higher voltage than the incoming grid to prevent draw from the grid.

Looking at the below when clicking grid



It's showing zero grid and zero CT. Now and then there is a 10w on the grid but CT is flat zero. The LD I assume is the load circuit and that seems about right for what's running right now and I can see it fluctuate as things like my washing machine motor kick in.

Looking at the grid setting, it's configured to output at 230, which is LESS than my supply.



I asked the sparkie originally if the inverter would be able to sense the grid voltage and adjust its output but this seems like it overrides that.

@Speedster can you shot those screens on yours? First is the grid and second is settings/grid settings.