MyBB Motorcycle Owners Thread

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SauRoNZA said:
While I’m not a mod geek I do like to make changes here and there over time that you can take note of.

So I do still want to put a nice pipe on my RS in time but there pretty much all, just for a nicer noise but not anything too over the top.

One thing I however simply cannot fathom is selecting stuff off the factory parts list straight out of the box before I even tried it stock.

How can you spend so much money without getting any real sense of what it brings to the party?

The nicest thing about changing pipes is actually feeling and hearing the difference.
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I used should have mentioned fancy power mods
I have an after market pipe (for better sound), spots, alarm system and a chain oiler
 
SauRoNZA said:
Heh? Then your original post makes absolutely no sense.
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Huh?
"I said: not to rub any noses in it, but, I love riding a bike, that 'out of the box' is 100% what I want - I couldn't be bothered fiddling with pricy after market mods"

By that I meant power mods...
I thought that was obvious, but obviously not
I ride a KTM 1290 SA and the engine and most of the electronics is 100%, but there are some additions that most people make to any bike, and ONLY those I've done.

I had an XT1200Z some years ago and I had to mod the engine, to make it slightly less boring - decided to not go that route ever again
 
Bundu said:
Huh?
"I said: not to rub any noses in it, but, I love riding a bike, that 'out of the box' is 100% what I want - I couldn't be bothered fiddling with pricy after market mods"

By that I meant power mods...
I thought that was obvious, but obviously not
I ride a KTM 1290 SA and the engine and most of the electronics is 100%, but there are some additions that most people make to any bike, and ONLY those I've done.

I had an XT1200Z some years ago and I had to mod the engine, to make it slightly less boring - decided to not go that route ever again
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At the price of exhausts these days they are right up there with the pricey mods so it could be read (and was) that you are against mods as a whole and prefer things 100% stock.
 
Do you guys reckon it would be safe for me to spray Q20 into the handlebar switch housing?

My pass (headlight flash) button works intermittently now. The high-beam button works just fine though so it is not anything to do with the light itself. Just the pass button that flashes the high beam works sometimes and othertimes not. I suspect some rust or moisture inside on the contact.

I don't want to take it apart unless I have to, so thinking of squirting some Q20 through the gaps by the switches. What say you?
 
Nobody Important said:
Do you guys reckon it would be safe for me to spray Q20 into the handlebar switch housing?

My pass (headlight flash) button works intermittently now. The high-beam button works just fine though so it is not anything to do with the light itself. Just the pass button that flashes the high beam works sometimes and othertimes not. I suspect some rust or moisture inside on the contact.

I don't want to take it apart unless I have to, so thinking of squirting some Q20 through the gaps by the switches. What say you?
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personally i wouldn't
 
Nobody Important said:
Do you guys reckon it would be safe for me to spray Q20 into the handlebar switch housing?

My pass (headlight flash) button works intermittently now. The high-beam button works just fine though so it is not anything to do with the light itself. Just the pass button that flashes the high beam works sometimes and othertimes not. I suspect some rust or moisture inside on the contact.

I don't want to take it apart unless I have to, so thinking of squirting some Q20 through the gaps by the switches. What say you?
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I've done it before and it's worked just fine.

But a better bet if you had it would probably be compressed air.

Best would be to simply take it off and open it up and clean it manually with rubbing alcohol.
 
SauRoNZA said:
I've done it before and it's worked just fine.

But a better bet if you had it would probably be compressed air.

Best would be to simply take it off and open it up and clean it manually with rubbing alcohol.
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Okay I'll see how easy it is to open up. I just don't want a situation where I open it up and springs go flying everywhere and its a mission to put back. :X3:
 
Nobody Important said:
Okay I'll see how easy it is to open up. I just don't want a situation where I open it up and springs go flying everywhere and its a mission to put back. :X3:
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Same reason I'm too scared to open things. Had too many instances of **** just going !BOING! as you open the casing... :ROFL: Now days I end up opening casings as if there's a bomb inside... Inch by inch...
 
Nobody Important said:
Okay I'll see how easy it is to open up. I just don't want a situation where I open it up and springs go flying everywhere and its a mission to put back. :X3:
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Work slowly and carefully and all should be well.

But yes there is likely a spring inside, but it could also be cleanable without dismantling the whole thing.
 
Nobody Important said:
Do you guys reckon it would be safe for me to spray Q20 into the handlebar switch housing?

My pass (headlight flash) button works intermittently now. The high-beam button works just fine though so it is not anything to do with the light itself. Just the pass button that flashes the high beam works sometimes and othertimes not. I suspect some rust or moisture inside on the contact.

I don't want to take it apart unless I have to, so thinking of squirting some Q20 through the gaps by the switches. What say you?
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I would just spray contact cleaner in there, while operating the switch
 
You can't spray Q20. It's a lubricant. If the button was physically stuck, then maybe.

If it's an electrical contact, use contact cleaner as stated above.
 
bromster said:
You can't spray Q20. It's a lubricant. If the button was physically stuck, then maybe.

If it's an electrical contact, use contact cleaner as stated above.
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Can and shouldn’t are two very different things. :)

But yes there are better ways and things.
 
bromster said:
You can't spray Q20. It's a lubricant. If the button was physically stuck, then maybe.

If it's an electrical contact, use contact cleaner as stated above.
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Just out of curiosity (not arguing with you if you know better, just want to learn), why not Q20? Is it bad for electrical points? Does it conduct electricity and will cause a short amongst the various switches in the cluster? The label on the can says it can be used to displace moisture in automotive electronics that is why I thought of it first.

But I will not go ahead until I have more clarity.
 
It's ideal for stuff like locks which have rusted and become stuck from rain etc.

It is heavier than water, so it displaces it. And it lubricates. That's about it

The reason I would avoid electronics is because of the sticky mess it leaves after it dries. Electronics cleaner shouldn't leave anything behind.
 
bromster said:
It's ideal for stuff like locks which have rusted and become stuck from rain etc.

It is heavier than water, so it displaces it. And it lubricates. That's about it

The reason I would avoid electronics is because of the sticky mess it leaves after it dries. Electronics cleaner shouldn't leave anything behind.
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Agreed, there is a black and yellow can called Spark which is ideal for electrical components you don't want to strip.
 
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