Router Battery Backup

[Jolo]

It replaces the external power supplies for the router/Wi-Fi being used. (Only one PUP required for each system)
This then provides power directly to the router/Wi-Fi and has battery backup.
It will keep your system up and running for the whole day during a power outage. The backup time depends on the load of the equipment it is powering but one user survived a 15hr power outage.
It has a built in charger for the battery which will automatically switch over to backup power and then resume to mains power when it's restored. (It has a battery charge LEDs and a low voltage cutout to protect the battery when fully discharged)
So no input from the user is required.

Contact details please

 

[Zuner]

can you post a pic of the connections ?

Measured with a multimeter, got everything right, center pin positive both routers power supplies are also that polarity.

That's an old Samsung galaxy s3 power bank in case somebody wonders.

 

[x7razor]

I bought the exact same one. The input and output voltage is exactly the same. I tested it by connecting it to the power from 5v 2a power bank and used a led as load and tested the voltage by connecting the probes in parallel. Tried turning the screw nut no change in voltage. What m I doing wrong??

i also bought one the other day same problem voltage does not change

 

[Geoff.D]

i also bought one the other day same problem voltage does not change

See my post #320 quoted below for convenience. It is all about reading the manual!

RTFM



CCW = CounterClockWise and that stupid +- means "About or approximately", not plus and minus! Turns presumably means one complete revolution (360 degrees)

 

[Ma’bad]

With regard to the geewiz mini ups.
Will it be able to power netgear orbi which requires 12v3.5A?

 

[chrisc]

The PSU for the Orbi states 3.5A but it draws less than 1 amp

 

[chrisc]

You can get a 9V regulator circuit off the net. The components, less an enclosure, cost under R20.

Suppliers like Mantech, Communica and Yebo stock the regulators. Be sure to include a heatsink

 

[MidnightWizard]

It would appear that one of the advantages of "load-shedding" is that it is turning us ALL into -- Electronics fundis
I am sad to inform you all that I have a STRONG sense of deja-vu.
This is pretty much how things went down in Zimbabwe -- it just goes down and down
The next step was --> "Farm-Occupations"

On a more practical note
No-one has mentioned using solar power ( PV ) panels to charge batteries
When at stage 4 / 5 /6 when there is not enough Eskom power to re-charge batteries

Perhaps one of the very helpful and knowledgeable here will explain how this can be done
YES -- even for a "micro-grid"

You ARE going to need this
( One assumes the SA Internet backbone somehow survives ? )

 

[Geoff.D]

It would appear that one of the advantages of "load-shedding" is that it is turning us ALL into -- Electronics fundis
I am sad to inform you all that I have a STRONG sense of deja-vu.
This is pretty much how things went down in Zimbabwe -- it just goes down and down
The next step was --> "Farm-Occupations"

On a more practical note
No-one has mentioned using solar power ( PV ) panels to charge batteries
When at stage 4 / 5 /6 when there is not enough Eskom power to re-charge batteries

Perhaps one of the very helpful and knowledgeable here will explain how this can be done
YES -- even for a "micro-grid"

You ARE going to need this
( One assumes the SA Internet backbone somehow survives ? )

A very valid point. The panic every time we one of the events never cease to amaze me.

It is long overdue that we all should sit back and re-evaluate what is required in some sort of logic and methodical way, listing the options available.
On this thread, we have seen all sorts of panic buying of bits and pieces by people who may or may not have the knowledge to actually use what they buy properly.

We have of Heath Robinson patched together solutions, half baked attempts to turn UPS's into back up power, semi-proper backup power solutions involving expensive charger/inverters and batteries, generators etc. All of which cost a fortune and in the end just gather dust when the panic is over again.

The way to do this is go all the way back to first principals and list what the options are at a strategic level before buying anything.

ALL communication-related devices in use in our homes are now powered by some sort of AC-DC charger and a battery, and or directly powered by a AC -DC power brick.
LED light bulbs are all finally DC devices as well Forget about the vastly stupid foray we were all duped into using for a while --CFLs.
Even refrigeration and A/C is moving towards inverter technologies.

So, ANY system that involves multiple energy conversion stages is just wasting energy and making things unnecessarily complicated and very often very expensive.

So my advice is first to do a thorough needs analysis of ALL the energy consuming appliance you have and catergorise em based on the power they require

Geyser-AC driven heater element
Stove-AC driven heater elements
A/C - Compressors driven by AC or inverters
Fridge Freezers - Compressors driven by AC or inverters.
Kitchen appliances - mostly AC motors and heater elements? or some small DC motors are driven by an AC -DC power converter - batteries?
TVs - all flat-panel TVs have some sort of power brick or in-built AC-DC power converter
Cell phones - all AC-DC power chargers charging internal batteries to the devices
PC laptops - AC-DC charger charging an internal battery
PCs - ??
Routers, ONUs ONTs APs Wif-Fi routers - AC-DC Power converters.

So for me, assuming you want to be free of external power sources a total solution would be to group all the DC gadgets together and then

Solar-> Charger -> Battery ->DC distribution -> Power conversion from battery voltage to appliance voltage
Avoid DC-AC-DCconversions if at all possible.

Water heating - Solar - end of story.
Cooking - Solar/generator backup - DC charger - Battery - Inverter or Gas
etc. Once this study is done you can decide what is most important for you and tackle the problems piecemeal, or if your pockets are deep enough a once-off large installation.

Sticking to entertainment and Communications only, then the total answer is a

Solar- Charger - Batteries - Conversion

 

[x7razor]

See my post #320 quoted below for convenience. It is all about reading the manual!

What manual it did not come with a manual there is only datasheets available online but anyway i managed to get it working found a solution online had to turn it clockwise until it made a click and then adjusted it anti-clockwise works fine now

 

[Geoff.D]

What manual it did not come with a manual there is only datasheets available online but anyway i managed to get it working found a solution online had to turn it clockwise until it made a click and then adjusted it anti-clockwise works fine now

The datasheet! But then you have to take the trouble to READ the data sheet ALL the way to the bottom. See my extract.
But then there is only so much one can do to try and protect others from their own stupidity. I can't understand that many spend hours on the internet looking for solutions that are right under their noses anyway.

 

[Speedster]

What manual it did not come with a manual there is only datasheets available online but anyway i managed to get it working found a solution online had to turn it clockwise until it made a click and then adjusted it anti-clockwise works fine now

Did your keyboard not come with punctuation either?

 

[Geoff.D]

Check this article on Minigrids:
https://www.economist.com/leaders/2...the-best-way-to-illuminate-the-bottom-billion
They differentiate between the different grid systems which is interesting but I have no doubt that these will challenge the national grids with their massively expensive distribution network, not to mention the equally huge generation infrastructure that supplies this power.

This, of course, is not a new idea at all. Many towns in SA had their own power generation and even power stations in the old days and even well into recent times.

Pretoria had its own network with power stations based on 240Volts. Cape Town had its own power stations for many years.
Small Karoo towns had their own as well, mostly diesel generator setups. There are even a few places in Mpumalanga that for years had their own Hydro plants.

My comment missed your actual point - apologies for that. We are so brainwashed into believing only AC distribution in our homes is the answer.

As soon as you start playing around with Solar, it should very quickly become evident that there are other ways

A 48V DC and higher distribution setup in our homes is a viable solution for many appliances in the home.

 

[Zuner]

You can get a 9V regulator circuit off the net. The components, less an enclosure, cost under R20.

Suppliers like Mantech, Communica and Yebo stock the regulators. Be sure to include a heatsink

Yeah, I wish I stayed closer to these places, shipping kills me if I need one component.

 

[MidnightWizard]

This, of course, is not a new idea at all. Many towns in SA had their own power generation and even power stations in the old days and even well into recent times.

Pretoria had its own network with power stations based on 240Volts. Cape Town had its own power stations for many years.
Small Karoo towns had their own as well, mostly diesel generator setups. There are even a few places in Mpumalanga that for years had their own Hydro plants.

My comment missed your actual point - apologies for that. We are so brainwashed into believing only AC distribution in our homes is the answer.

As soon as you start playing around with Solar, it should very quickly become evident that there are other ways

A 48V DC and higher distribution setup in our homes is a viable solution for many appliances in the home.

Indeed
Natal had an Eskom power station in Pinetown as well as the Colenso station that provided power for the SAR&H
( ALL since demolished / mothballed / vandalised / stripped )

Some small rural towns even have their generators still intact -- as MUSEUM PIECES ....
It does however make HUGE sense for smaller rural towns to look at developing their OWN power reticulation "plants"

For this to work it HAS TO BE -- taken out of the hands of the municipal authorities
They MUST BE local privately initiated and run projects ( for profit -- obviously )
HOWEVER
I CANNOT see the defunct badly run municipalities ( who get much of their revenue from on-selling Eskom power ) letting go of the -- stream of gravy -- very easily !

 

[David DJ]

A very valid point. The panic every time we one of the events never cease to amaze me.

It is long overdue that we all should sit back and re-evaluate what is required in some sort of logic and methodical way, listing the options available.
On this thread, we have seen all sorts of panic buying of bits and pieces by people who may or may not have the knowledge to actually use what they buy properly.

We have of Heath Robinson patched together solutions, half baked attempts to turn UPS's into back up power, semi-proper backup power solutions involving expensive charger/inverters and batteries, generators etc. All of which cost a fortune and in the end just gather dust when the panic is over again.

The way to do this is go all the way back to first principals and list what the options are at a strategic level before buying anything.

ALL communication-related devices in use in our homes are now powered by some sort of AC-DC charger and a battery, and or directly powered by a AC -DC power brick.
LED light bulbs are all finally DC devices as well Forget about the vastly stupid foray we were all duped into using for a while --CFLs.
Even refrigeration and A/C is moving towards inverter technologies.

So, ANY system that involves multiple energy conversion stages is just wasting energy and making things unnecessarily complicated and very often very expensive.

So my advice is first to do a thorough needs analysis of ALL the energy consuming appliance you have and catergorise em based on the power they require

Geyser-AC driven heater element
Stove-AC driven heater elements
A/C - Compressors driven by AC or inverters
Fridge Freezers - Compressors driven by AC or inverters.
Kitchen appliances - mostly AC motors and heater elements? or some small DC motors are driven by an AC -DC power converter - batteries?
TVs - all flat-panel TVs have some sort of power brick or in-built AC-DC power converter
Cell phones - all AC-DC power chargers charging internal batteries to the devices
PC laptops - AC-DC charger charging an internal battery
PCs - ??
Routers, ONUs ONTs APs Wif-Fi routers - AC-DC Power converters.

So for me, assuming you want to be free of external power sources a total solution would be to group all the DC gadgets together and then

Solar-> Charger -> Battery ->DC distribution -> Power conversion from battery voltage to appliance voltage
Avoid DC-AC-DCconversions if at all possible.

Water heating - Solar - end of story.
Cooking - Solar/generator backup - DC charger - Battery - Inverter or Gas
etc. Once this study is done you can decide what is most important for you and tackle the problems piecemeal, or if your pockets are deep enough a once-off large installation.

Sticking to entertainment and Communications only, then the total answer is a

Solar- Charger - Batteries - Conversion

I'm getting really confused here. Notebooks, routers, onts all have ac to dc chargers which become the dc-ac-dc conversions when used with ups/inverter and battery backup, that you advise to avoid if possible. Then there's the issue of modified versus pure sine wave devices where most advice is that the mentioned devices require a pure sinewave input to avoid damage or avoid noise.

 

[PUP Backup]

I'm getting really confused here. Notebooks, routers, onts all have ac to dc chargers which become the dc-ac-dc conversions when used with ups/inverter and battery backup, that you advise to avoid if possible. Then there's the issue of modified versus pure sine wave devices where most advice is that the mentioned devices require a pure sinewave input to avoid damage or avoid noise.

Electronic components these days require 5V or 3.5V to power them.
So the 12V supply to the device (e.g. router/Wi-Fi) is reduced down to 5V and 3.5V on the PCB of the device.
They don't use a lot of power so it's possible to power these devices with a battery..
If you can avoid using an inverter UPS then do so. (Why crank the battery voltage up to 220V only for the devices power supply to bring it back down to the same voltage you started with?)

 

[David DJ]

Electronic components these days require 5V or 3.5V to power them.
So the 12V supply to the device (e.g. router/Wi-Fi) is reduced down to 5V and 3.5V on the PCB of the device.
They don't use a lot of power so it's possible to power these devices with a battery..
If you can avoid using an inverter UPS then do so. (Why crank the battery voltage up to 220V only for the devices power supply to bring it back down to the same voltage you started with?)

I've got 2 requirements. The one is to power the fibre box (15w) and router (15w) for up to 5 hours. The second is for a laptop (85w), low power desktop (90w), monitor (40w) and wifi router (15w), also for up to 5 hours. For the latter I've got an inverter and 2x12v 105 batteries. I'm looking for a safe, not hacked, solid solution for the first which is in an adjoining building. I'm looking for an economic but long term professional solution.

 

[PUP Backup]

I've got 2 requirements. The one is to power the fibre box (15w) and router (15w) for up to 5 hours. The second is for a laptop (85w), low power desktop (90w), monitor (40w) and wifi router (15w), also for up to 5 hours. For the latter I've got an inverter and 2x12v 105 batteries. I'm looking for a safe, not hacked, solid solution for the first which is in an adjoining building. I'm looking for an economic but long term professional solution.

Please provide details of the ONT and the router that you describe in your first option: Make/model and the voltage these devices use (check out their power supply specs)

 

[Geoff.D]

I'm getting really confused here. Notebooks, routers, onts all have ac to dc chargers which become the dc-ac-dc conversions when used with ups/inverter and battery backup, that you advise to avoid if possible. Then there's the issue of modified versus pure sine wave devices where most advice is that the mentioned devices require a pure sinewave input to avoid damage or avoid noise.

I am saying look at the actual power required by the device, not its power brick or charger. Then convert the battery backup you have to that directly, bypassing all the chargers, and power bricks etc.
For all electronic devices that avoids completely, the issues of having inverters all together.
Just have a source of power (AC mains), Generator, Solar, a battery charger, a battery, and direct voltage conversion to the appliance input DC voltage.

If your backup power is solar then all it is solar panels, battery banks, DC to DC conversion.
If your primary power is AC, Charger, battery banks, DC-DC conversion. Leave out the inverter stage.
If your power backup is a generator, it is the same, charger, battery banks, DC-DC conversion.
Could even go back to DC generators!

There only a few voltages, 3.5V; 5V; 9V; 12V; 19V for some laptops. Gone are all the inverter issues.

Then we just need to sort out A/C and refrigeration and heating (cooking) water heating is already direct solar.
We are all slaves to this huge centralised power generation monster that has now let us down spectacularly!

All the stuff we are all worried about when LS happens is completely out of the equation.

Cooking ----- GAS
water heating ----- Solar
A/C ----- DC - inverter compressors
Refrigeration ----- DC - Inverter compressors
Electronics ----- Solar - DC to DC converters.