Router Battery Backup

wingnut771 said:
Never heard of an 12V AC pump. So, the transformer is stepping down 220V to 12V. The converter you speak of is a normal inverter which would convert 12V to 220V then you use the supplied transformer with the pump as normal. Not aware of 12V DC to 12V AC inverters, that's beyond my knowledge.

I would look for a pure sine wave inverter UPS and deep cycle or lithium battery. R10k easy but then you can watch tv too. Or maybe get a 12V DC pump and charger for battery?
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Haha - ya - we're actually busy with quotes for doing solar and batteries - but was hoping for a short term solution.

Now looking for a DC pump - but also need to replace the LED light as its also 12V AC. (the LED light runs on a day/night timer - so is a real pain after load shedding as it just stays off until set)
 
xrapidx said:
Haha - ya - we're actually busy with quotes for doing solar and batteries - but was hoping for a short term solution.

Now looking for a DC pump - but also need to replace the LED light as its also 12V AC. (the LED light runs on a day/night timer - so is a real pain after load shedding as it just stays off until set)
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Best option for sure - just get a cheap DC pump. They don't cost a lot. And most LED strips are 12V DC, you can go multicolour, waterproof etc. Also cheap.
 
FNfal said:
I have one of those units running my security gate lock with a Bluenova 8Ah battery in it and it runs for more than 8 hours , adjusted the voltage to 13,8V , it works well .
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i only get just over 2 hrs running my router with my setup, normal gel lead 7.2, stating to think the battery is on its way out? just a router connected with a internal ont built in
 
tyerone said:
i only get just over 2 hrs running my router with my setup, normal gel lead 7.2, stating to think the battery is on its way out? just a router connected with a internal ont built in
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What charge voltage are you using? What float voltage is written on the battery?
 
wingnut771 said:
What charge voltage are you using? What float voltage is written on the battery?
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standby use 13.5 - 13.80
cyclic 14.5 - 14.90

12v 8ah 20hr

if i measure with a voltmeter the power coming out the the charge cable to battery is 13.50v
 
tyerone said:
standby use 13.5 - 13.80
cyclic 14.5 - 14.90

12v 8ah 20hr

if i measure with a voltmeter the power coming out the the charge cable to battery is 13.50v
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Perfect for that battery. Battery still stuffed though, how old is it? As a test, try increasing it to 14.5V for 24 hours.
 
wingnut771 said:
This will solve everything. Set charge to 13.8V.
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should i change the output voltage of the board from 13.5 to 13,8 ?

the lithium im getting has a BMS module and is a drop in replacement for a lead acid
 
tyerone said:
should i change the output voltage of the board from 13.5 to 13,8 ?

the lithium im getting has a BMS module and is a drop in replacement for a lead acid
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:thumbsup:, lithium likes to float at 13.4V but charges/absorbs slowly below 14V so it's a bit of a happy medium as lithium doesn't like to sit at high voltage (max is 14.6V). If you are running out of capacity, you can increase to 14V during blackouts, then go back afterwards. You can also try it on 13.5V and see how it goes but I think it will take too long to charge.

The BMS is just there to monitor low and high volts (and cut out if necessary) and balance the cells.
 
The_Ogre said:
Eisiest for the lay out there would be to get hold of an old 12v UPS, rip out the battery and replaces it with one of Thor's LiFePo4 7ah drop in replacements.

If you have a UPS lying around, all you need is the battery (R590). It will easily do 3000 cycles. So around 15 years of Eksdom's bullshit if they don't load shed every day.
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I have done this. 2 things should be noted. the max discharge current of those securi prod batteries are 10A so that translates to 120W that can be drawn from them. If you manage to drain the battery dead, you'll have to open the unit again, add 12v to the battery from an external source to get the UPS to start charging again.
 
Park@82 said:
I have done this. 2 things should be noted. the max discharge current of those securi prod batteries are 10A so that translates to 120W that can be drawn from them. If you manage to drain the battery dead, you'll have to open the unit again, add 12v to the battery from an external source to get the UPS to start charging again.
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I've seen guys paralleling a LA with a LFP, so the LFP does 90% of the work, then the LA takes over when voltage starts dropping. :ROFL:
 
I have done it with a small PSS UPS and this VERTIV:

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The VERTIV seems to have a timer build in that only allows to run for about 2 hours. This can help prevent the battery from draining completely but wont be useful if you would like to run something from it for longer than 2 hours.
 
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