Router Battery Backup

Quick question on these Gizzu 8800mAH units...

I run my router and ONT on a unit like this. It survives for 3h on loadshedding, but not 4h hours. Usually not a problem, but lately I have been cought during work hours with an hour without internet.

I have a few options - get a bigger UPS with 14400mAH or 17600mAH capacity, but I don't really want to add another unit or a bigger unit.

Would it be possible to simply buy 18650 cells with a 3400mAH capacity and swop them out with the 2200mAH cells currently in the unit? Does the BMS sit on the cells itself or is it managed by the electronics board in the Gizzu?
 
Quick question on these Gizzu 8800mAH units...

I run my router and ONT on a unit like this. It survives for 3h on loadshedding, but not 4h hours. Usually not a problem, but lately I have been cought during work hours with an hour without internet.

I have a few options - get a bigger UPS with 14400mAH or 17600mAH capacity, but I don't really want to add another unit or a bigger unit.

Would it be possible to simply buy 18650 cells with a 3400mAH capacity and swop them out with the 2200mAH cells currently in the unit? Does the BMS sit on the cells itself or is it managed by the electronics board in the Gizzu?
If you can afford to then just get a bigger unit. Playing with the BMS and cells is just too much effort. Cost wise you might come out fairly even or even ahead if you tried to swap the cells but in reality its not worth the effort.

Unless you really know whats cooking with electronics and this is not a critical piece of hardware for your system then go ahead.
 
If you can afford to then just get a bigger unit. Playing with the BMS and cells is just too much effort. Cost wise you might come out fairly even or even ahead if you tried to swap the cells but in reality its not worth the effort.

Unless you really know whats cooking with electronics and this is not a critical piece of hardware for your system then go ahead.
From my research so far cost wise it's a R1200-1500 for a bigger unit, vs R400 for the higher capacity cells
 
Would it be possible to simply buy 18650 cells with a 3400mAH capacity and swop them out with the 2200mAH cells currently in the unit? Does the BMS sit on the cells itself or is it managed by the electronics board in the Gizzu?

Most likely the BMS is external, but if it's tightly integrated like in a laptop battery, then disconnecting the old cells is the point at which you risk bricking the device.

I would probably rather try putting 4x new 2200 mAh cells in parallel in an external box. Not ideal given different cell conditions but this way the old ones don't go to waste & capacity is near double rather than 50% more.

Just run the UPS down to dead and then get the new cells to that same voltage first.

You still have potential issues with firmware preventing you from utilising the full increased capacity.
 
Quick question on these Gizzu 8800mAH units...

I run my router and ONT on a unit like this. It survives for 3h on loadshedding, but not 4h hours. Usually not a problem, but lately I have been cought during work hours with an hour without internet.

I have a few options - get a bigger UPS with 14400mAH or 17600mAH capacity, but I don't really want to add another unit or a bigger unit.

Would it be possible to simply buy 18650 cells with a 3400mAH capacity and swop them out with the 2200mAH cells currently in the unit? Does the BMS sit on the cells itself or is it managed by the electronics board in the Gizzu?
I did that with my Guzzu about 18 months ago. I installed Samsung 3000 mAh batteries, though.

When new, the Gizzu lasted about 3.5 hours - that was in the good old days, where Stage 2 was the flavour of the day. After about 2 years, they were not lasting 2 hours. That was when l fitted the Samsung ones.

The 3000 mAh batteries lasted about 5 hours at first. After almost 18 months, they still survived the recent Stage 6. Unfortunately this week the unit is switching off at 3.5 hours .

I am now building a unit using the SecuriProd 7Ah 12v battery. I recently built one for my sister and this is still going strong, even after running overnight. I tested it for more than 12 hours and it was still going fine...
It's probably a bit of an overkill, but it's cheaper than the pre-made units and my time is my own...
 
I am not sure if it was in this thread or another on MyBB that a user suggested the below, but anyone know if this will work with these mini-inverters that use the small 12V lead acid batteries:

 
Hi all,

Forgive me for my request for being slightly OT - can someone advise on what to use as power backup on a 16-port POE Switch, the only info it gives me is as follows:
max power per port: 30W
max power budget: 150W
Voltage: 100-240V / 50-60Hz

Currently I am using a mini inverter/12V battery backup, but have to manually unplug switch, and plug it in the inverter ( hope it make sense ) - the plug is the std 3-pin IEC plug/cord...
I am already using several of these mini up's on my routers & AP's - I now just need a plan for my switch.

Thanks,

My ideal setup would be to use 1 of those auto switches on the mini-inverter to power up the above switch..
Any help much appreciated,
 
Last edited:
My ideal setup would be to use 1 of those auto switches on the mini-inverter to power up the above switch..
Any help much appreciated,

After much (fruitless) investigation into DC Solutions that can a power a 60W PoE switch, I've decided to go with a small inverter (375-500) and a 12v 50Ah lithium battery to power my two switches and 4 AP's (total draw is around 90W).

That will keep WiFi up in the whole house and people can use laptops, phones and tablets without any issues.

At present I only have one AP up during loadshedding running off the same Gizzu powering my Router which enables WiFi in my bedroom and study - this was fine while the kids were at school but during the holidays it means that they invade my space to come and leech wifi.
 
Would it be possible to simply buy 18650 cells with a 3400mAH capacity and swop them out with the 2200mAH cells currently in the unit? Does the BMS sit on the cells itself or is it managed by the electronics board in the Gizzu?

Finally found my dud, [and struggled with parsing errors when I tried to upload]. BMS is on the battery, not on the Gizzu board:

20221217_091439.jpg
 
I've ended up with an overspecced (and probably overpriced for what it does) solution but on the upside, it works. For the load that I'll be putting on it (around 60W) it should run for 6-8 hours on the 12V/50Ah battery.

12V/50Ah battery (see pic) connected to an ACDC 600W Inverter (built-in 10A Charger and two 3 prong style output plugs) (Link) - permanently connected to power - when LS hits, seamless cutover and the switches (Unifi US-8-60W + Unifi US-8), 4 x AP's (2 x UAP-AC-LR + 2 x USP-AC-Lite) and Unifi Cloudkey don't miss a beat - when the power comes back on the inverter starts charging the battery again - so far, after a 2 hour LS session, the battery recharges within 40 minutes.

In the end, the solution cost me 7K (4K for the battery, 3K for the inverter) - the cost can likely be brought down by going with a smaller battery and a smaller inverter but I ran out of time and patience looking for a cheaper appropriate combination that would do the job.

It's rudimentary though in terms of being able to monitor (can't monitor increments of charge - it's either 'red' (charging) or 'green' (fully charged) and the inverter will beep and shut down if the battery is depleted.

Overall, needs must and I'm happy that it works (the network stays up and fully operational) but it's certainly not the most cost-effective solution I could have gotten nor does it give me the option of fine-grained monitoring and management.

ACDC UPS-TYPE 600W PURE-SINE INVERTER​


1671562771482.png 1671562819368.png
 
I've ended up with an overspecced (and probably overpriced for what it does) solution but on the upside, it works. For the load that I'll be putting on it (around 60W) it should run for 6-8 hours on the 12V/50Ah battery.

12V/50Ah battery (see pic) connected to an ACDC 600W Inverter (built-in 10A Charger and two 3 prong style output plugs) (Link) - permanently connected to power - when LS hits, seamless cutover and the switches (Unifi US-8-60W + Unifi US-8), 4 x AP's (2 x UAP-AC-LR + 2 x USP-AC-Lite) and Unifi Cloudkey don't miss a beat - when the power comes back on the inverter starts charging the battery again - so far, after a 2 hour LS session, the battery recharges within 40 minutes.

In the end, the solution cost me 7K (4K for the battery, 3K for the inverter) - the cost can likely be brought down by going with a smaller battery and a smaller inverter but I ran out of time and patience looking for a cheaper appropriate combination that would do the job.

It's rudimentary though in terms of being able to monitor (can't monitor increments of charge - it's either 'red' (charging) or 'green' (fully charged) and the inverter will beep and shut down if the battery is depleted.

Overall, needs must and I'm happy that it works (the network stays up and fully operational) but it's certainly not the most cost-effective solution I could have gotten nor does it give me the option of fine-grained monitoring and management.

ACDC UPS-TYPE 600W PURE-SINE INVERTER​


View attachment 1445159 View attachment 1445161
Link to the battery please?
 
Can anyone recommend a decent quality +/- 200W inverter?
I just need to run my printer and maybe a quick boot of my desktop to get a file from time to time during load shedding and I’ll get one of those 7Ah lithium gate motor batteries to run it.

Sorry this might not be the best place to ask this, if not which thread would I do better asking on?
 
Can anyone recommend a decent quality +/- 200W inverter?
I just need to run my printer and maybe a quick boot of my desktop to get a file from time to time during load shedding and I’ll get one of those 7Ah lithium gate motor batteries to run it.

Sorry this might not be the best place to ask this, if not which thread would I do better asking on?
Not sure if those gate motor LFP's can handle 200W (15.6A) which would have to be a 2C or 3C battery.
 
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