The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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So the isoboard has been delivered. Paid R2500 just for delivery. And the rock up here with the wrong delivery. 1st quote I got did not have enough boards so I asked for a revised quote. The revised quote was accepted and paid. So they delivered short. Means they have to come back. Someone fscked up.

Lovely email trail so i am in the clear. This just postpones the installation a bit.
 
W@P said:
So the isoboard has been delivered. Paid R2500 just for delivery. And the rock up here with the wrong delivery. 1st quote I got did not have enough boards so I asked for a revised quote. The revised quote was accepted and paid. So they delivered short. Means they have to come back. Someone fscked up.

Lovely email trail so i am in the clear. This just postpones the installation a bit.
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Where did you get it from? Looks like a lot of boards you're getting but still R2500 seems a little high.
 
DrJohnZoidberg said:
Where did you get it from? Looks like a lot of boards you're getting but still R2500 seems a little high.
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From Isoboard direct. Ja look I could have taken the trailer and a full tank of diesel that would have cost the same. And much more effort. We worked out about 76 sqm of ceiling that needs to be installed. Came to 43 boards. Think there will be a couple left over. Rather get a few more than come short.
 
schuits said:
I've installed rollerspikes. Looks much better than barbed wire that makes your house looks like a prison.
And dude with a crowbar can easily remove it, but I guess that's with everything.

Regarding the plain concrete. I've acid washed and painted 2 courtyards. They look ok, but require repainting pretty often, especially where water drops onto the floor. I think I used fired earth floor coat. A contractor said I should have used roof paint, does the same thing and costs less.
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Where did you buy the roller spikes, and how much did it cost per meter?
 
I am looking for a company in Cape Town northern suburbs that installs whirly birds.
The one I have is making a shst lot of noise on wind days. I think the ball bearing fell out or something.
Anyone have a contact?


image_2023-02-16_095327165.png
 
Scenario:
Gas geyser is on its lowest gas setting and highest water flow rate but the water is still too warm.
Opening the cold water tap lowers the temperature but not enough before the geyser eventually turns off and the water becomes ice cold.
There is a non return valve on the hot water outlet of the geyser.
The taps and showerhead is connected as indicated in the attached sketch.

Theory:
When opening the cold water enough it pushes against the incoming hot water (at the t-coupler) to eventually restrict the flow which causes the geyser to switch off.

Is this plausible or what other causes could there be?
 

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abudabi said:
Scenario:
Gas geyser is on its lowest gas setting and highest water flow rate but the water is still too warm.
Opening the cold water tap lowers the temperature but not enough before the geyser eventually turns off and the water becomes ice cold.
There is a non return valve on the hot water outlet of the geyser.
The taps and showerhead is connected as indicated in the attached sketch.

Theory:
When opening the cold water enough it pushes against the incoming hot water (at the t-coupler) to eventually restrict the flow which causes the geyser to switch off.

Is this plausible or what other causes could there be?
Click to expand...
I read something similar on the 4x4community forums. Take a look here and hopefully this will help:

Hope its not a waste of time.
 
abudabi said:
Scenario:
Gas geyser is on its lowest gas setting and highest water flow rate but the water is still too warm.
Opening the cold water tap lowers the temperature but not enough before the geyser eventually turns off and the water becomes ice cold.
There is a non return valve on the hot water outlet of the geyser.
The taps and showerhead is connected as indicated in the attached sketch.

Theory:
When opening the cold water enough it pushes against the incoming hot water (at the t-coupler) to eventually restrict the flow which causes the geyser to switch off.

Is this plausible or what other causes could there be?
Click to expand...
That does happen because the cold water is usually at higher pressure since hot water loses pressure going through the geyser first. Not sure if this effect is as big with a gas geyser though.

Maybe install a temperature regulator on the outlet of the gas geyser like the solar geysers have? This is to ensure the water going to the tap is at a safe temperature.
 
furpile said:
That does happen because the cold water is usually at higher pressure since hot water loses pressure going through the geyser first. Not sure if this effect is as big with a gas geyser though.

Maybe install a temperature regulator on the outlet of the gas geyser like the solar geysers have? This is to ensure the water going to the tap is at a safe temperature.
Click to expand...
Thats because typically you have a pressure regulator infront of the geyser which do reduce the pressure. This is part of any geyser installation. Though unsure about gas geyser. If you really want to equalize the pressure on both cold and hot, install a pressure regulator that match the one at the geyser, but then install it for the whole property.
 
W@P said:
Ok, so I am gonna get someone out to come and quote me on installing a ceiling with insulation under my carport roof. I was thinking of going the isoboard direction but was wondering if it would help if install more insulation like isotherm between the isoboard and the roof sheeting.

Would it be beneficial at all in doing isoboard with isotherm or would isoboard by itself be enough? Or should I look at putting in some of the foil stuff and isoboard? Bear in mind it gets farking hot under that roof. The cars display an outside temp of 30 degrees and it gets so hot inside the car I could have just as well parked it outside in the sun.

What say you?

View attachment 1471269

View attachment 1471275
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They are almost done with the Isoboard ceilings. Then I need to paint it. Some imperfections here and there, will tidy up with the finishing work.

1676905721542.png
 
abudabi said:
Thanks for the link. Exactly what I experienced and exact same solution worked for me. Guess I'm going shopping for a gushing non-watersaving showerhead.

Any suggestions of which one will work ?
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Can you notjust modify the one you have? Just need to make the holes a little bigger. It depends of course where you lay on the diy vs open the wallet scale.
 
abudabi said:
Thanks for the link. Exactly what I experienced and exact same solution worked for me. Guess I'm going shopping for a gushing non-watersaving showerhead.

Any suggestions of which one will work ?
Click to expand...
The gas geyser powered shower I used this past weekend had a shower head that looks like this. Not sure if flow is correct but think it is.

leroymerlin.co.za

Shower rose small knuckle joint cp

Easy DIY
leroymerlin.co.za leroymerlin.co.za
 
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