TheFriendlyGhost
Expert Member
my bike is mostly chrome, so i mixed Kleen-green and water in a spray bottle - just spray that on the bike (even the tank and wheel guards) and wipe clean with a fibre-free cloth. Every second week it's a proper wash.
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Question of the Day: Which compact crossover would you choose?
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my bike is mostly chrome, so i mixed Kleen-green and water in a spray bottle - just spray that on the bike (even the tank and wheel guards) and wipe clean with a fibre-free cloth. Every second week it's a proper wash.
NO! :crylaugh:
If we are talking Decals / Stickers you remove it by using a Heatgun or Hairdryer. Get a corner and it peels right off.
Wash with soap and water. Dry it off properly, add new stickers.
SauRoNZA
Honorary Master
NO! :crylaugh:
If we are talking Decals / Stickers you remove it by using a Heatgun or Hairdryer. Get a corner and it peels right off.
Wash with soap and water. Dry it off properly, add new stickers.
No man we know that.
Talking about this spray alternative.
faniebraai
RIP
PhireSide
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Maybe it's like getting a tattoo; once you get one it becomes addictive
Yup they do, the second link I posted is the older KLR.
P.S They are all Fugly
So good though. When the atom bombs fall. We will all be riding KLR's.
Haha. KLR - the ultimate zombie apocalypse survival vehicle
I see it's around R1500 for the stickers and shipping but excluding customs and all that jazz. Might be a plan B if plan A fails. This being a KLR I need to do it on the cheap, you know?
spiderz
Honorary Master
Spray it with the plastic dip ... new color every few months ... protects agains scrathes and stuff ... 
PhireSide
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Spray it with the plastic dip ... new color every few months ... protects agains scrathes and stuff ...
In all honesty I can really deal with some battle scars here and there. But the faded plastics really make my heart a bit sore. That said I don't want to go and spend thousands of rands on a KLR - that's against my religion
I was looking at a two-in-one primer and paint that Rust-oleum sells through Builders Warehouse for around R130 a tin, which isn't too pricey to play around with:
I love Rust-oleum products but I am a bit skeptical as to how well this would work. I would also probably use flatting paper and wax remover to get off any and all grime that is still on the parts before I try. I would also need to go Gloss Black as Matte will not blend in so well with the shiny fuel tank. Which brings me to another issue - if fuel happens to mess on it, the paint will most likely bubble and peel away. Touch-ups should be easy, at least.
I think I will also paint the small semi-translucent windshield as it is also a bit faded. And it's not like you could see through it anyway...
FiestaST
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TheFriendlyGhost
Expert Member
In all honesty I can really deal with some battle scars here and there. But the faded plastics really make my heart a bit sore. That said I don't want to go and spend thousands of rands on a KLR - that's against my religion
I was looking at a two-in-one primer and paint that Rust-oleum sells through Builders Warehouse for around R130 a tin, which isn't too pricey to play around with:
I love Rust-oleum products but I am a bit skeptical as to how well this would work. I would also probably use flatting paper and wax remover to get off any and all grime that is still on the parts before I try. I would also need to go Gloss Black as Matte will not blend in so well with the shiny fuel tank. Which brings me to another issue - if fuel happens to mess on it, the paint will most likely bubble and peel away. Touch-ups should be easy, at least.
I think I will also paint the small semi-translucent windshield as it is also a bit faded. And it's not like you could see through it anyway...
Battle scars can be covered with a putty like substances (not sure of the name, but this can be found at automotive paint places).
The windshield is also an easy one to do, sand it with a light water-paper, it actually goes all smokey, but once you are happy with the smoothness, spray a coat of clear matt and it make see-through again
kfc4unme
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So at work I lock my bike with a chain through the wheel. I must lock/unlock with complete auto pilot. Today I didn't lock it after gym as it was just a couple of hours. When I left, for some reason, my brain running in auto mode, decided to put the chain on. When I pulled off - well obviously didn't make it very far.
SykomantiS
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Dude... :crylaugh:
SauRoNZA
Honorary Master
Exactly why this measure of security along with a disc lock has never seemed like a good idea to me.
Damage?
Willy Strong
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[video=youtube;TnsN4eatARA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnsN4eatARA[/video]
faniebraai
RIP
When I was in college, close to wings beat bar in braamies, our instructor told us he usually went there suiping. And he did the whole disc lock thing... One night he was too gesuip to remember to take it off.
Drunk and windgat, he wanted to take off at speed... apparently he moved a couple of cm forward, then the bike basically flipped over
Willy Strong
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Any low speed parking lot training in Cape Town?
Watch "Police Motorcycle Competition: What I learned & how I did" on YouTube MCrider
[video=youtube_share;GKX6rdmTdu8]https://youtu.be/GKX6rdmTdu8[/video]
Watch "Police Motorcycle Competition: What I learned & how I did" on YouTube MCrider
[video=youtube_share;GKX6rdmTdu8]https://youtu.be/GKX6rdmTdu8[/video]
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I taught a friend riding in a parking lot with water-filled 2l bottles - worked well for the basics
Interesting to see in the video they talked about "time stopped when he put his left foot down" - I always stop, putting my right foot down - want my left foot on the gears and use right hand for brakes
faniebraai
RIP
I do left as well. I don't have gears
SauRoNZA
Honorary Master
In the perfect world should be stopping in 1st with left foot down and right foot on the rear brakes.
But doesn’t always work that way or simply isn’t always necessary.
Also some bikes sitting with the front pads locked against the disc at high heat transfers and burns in the pad residue which leads to early warping or just shuddering brakes. Whether it’s just a paper value or has real world consequence is another conversation.
On my Buell, which granted doesn’t use a standard braking system, I’m convinced this is what had my front disc warped and replaced under warranty, which is why I’ve made more of a habit to do it the “right” way with the rear brake instead.
Does help to be in the habit for crazy inclines.
For me, I find I'm right foot down first, leaving my left in the peg, incase I want to select neutral if the traffic lights take long. Also, just to keep my foot in position as my bike has a short first gear, so don't have to fiddle on the foot peg come time to shift. However, when I hit neutral before the stop, with clutch out, it's both paws on the black stuff....
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