Router Battery Backup

Do you run your OTN and router of a single box, or does each device have its own?

Wondering what setup I would need to run my standard telkom OTN + Hauwai router

I run separate power supplies as the ONT and router are in different parts of the house. I am sure a single power supply will work well. I suspect the ONT does not use much power (compared to a router with WIFI).
 
To explain how this works:
The lead acid battery in the alarm system is charged while its being used, and when the power goes bye bye then the battery is supplying the load- there is no switch-over.
The charger is usually strong enough to power the system and charge the battery.

This is why it can work for routers and such devices.

When it comes to an inverter, totally different animal. Inverter draws 100 times more current from the batteries than the actual charging current, so therefore you cannot build a charger big enough to run the inverter and simultaneously charge the batteries. This is why solar power can never really replace the utility for heavy loads such as dishwashers, kettles, etc..

Depends on the design, which then depends on how deep your pockets are.
 
Hi, i got my setup to work. the ONT is 5v so i got another 5.5 power supply i wasnt using, cut that in half and joined the cables with a usb that cant go more than 5v anyway. plugged the 5.5 power jack into the ont and the usb into a power bank. the power bank lasted 3.5 hours (12000mah), loadsheeding was 2.5 hours so that is sorted.

second step was more difficult for me, but ultimately i knew i didnt want a beeping noise from a ups all the time, would drive me and kids insane. so thanks to you guys and a little fine tuning with help of Automation Africa guys, went for the cctv backup power supply 3.2A with a 12Vdc 7.5ah battery. got a small power plug 5.5 mm DC pwer plug jack adapter connector for CCTV (male) , into which i screwed electrical wire and the other end screwed into the cctv box red (+) to red (+) and black (-) to black (-), for those who are not geniuses and had to learn like me, the white electrical cable is white, but has a ridge on the one side you can feel which is the red/positive side.
with some precision screwdrivers, i did the setup this morning (a few times for silly things omitted, like putting the wire through the hole before closing the box, and wiring it up wrong), but am super chuffed to say it works, so bring it on Eskom.......
the whole setup cost me r797 from automation africa (cctv box+battery+cctvadapter), the valuable advice i got from them was worth the extra spend initially.
So thanks very much guys, looking forward to load shedding.... (by the way i ordered that baobab usb2.0to5.5mm cable from takealot but it doesnt work, so dont buy it...gives a power light, no other lights ever come on)
here are some pictures...
 

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I got this for 350 bucks, wondering what will be the cheapest options now for a battery and a charger for the battery
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The smart charger connected to the battery on it's own will work fine but I think once you connect the routers and ONT the constant power they draw will trick the smart charger in thinking the battery is not full and keep on pushing current to it. It will probably get over charged. For this reason you need some kind of relay that will cut power to the battery when it's full.

I stand to be corrected though.
Let me add few words in support. Yes, it is all true. It is why all inexpensive backup chargers have a separate trickle charging circuit for a battery which is offline when on AC power. A relay switch the output from AC power supply to battery when AC fails. A battery backup power is then coupled directly to the output, no regulation, but there is an automatic cut off switch to prevent battery from draining off completely.

These links from Communica for backup unit for alarm systems or security cameras have all-in-one, but I can't comment on the quality. A critical point is how a battery charger is made: safe for a battery or not. It is why for my own project I will be purchasing one of these Mean Well backup chargers:
http://www.mantech.co.za/Stock.aspx?Query=mean+well+pscand
R347 PSC-35A-C output 2.6A, 36W, charging 0.9A
R370 PSC-60A-C output 4.3A, 60W, charging 1.5A
R751 PSC-100A-C output 7A, 100W, charging 2.5A

PSC-60A-C should be sufficient for many applications and will be OK for charging 100Ah car battery. Trade off is, you have to purchase a connector housing with pins and a crimping tool. If you don't like it, there are models with screw connectors AD-55A and AD-155A, but in my opinion charging current is very low, insufficient for a large battery or frequent power cuts.

For a purists, a backup charger can be assembled inside electricity box, using DIN rail mount. The relevant models are DRC-40A, 60A and 100A, but a price is much higher for these units.
 
The smart charger connected to the battery on it's own will work fine but I think once you connect the routers and ONT the constant power they draw will trick the smart charger in thinking the battery is not full and keep on pushing current to it. It will probably get over charged. For this reason you need some kind of relay that will cut power to the battery when it's full.

I stand to be corrected though.
Yes. The charger will continue to charge the battery and the load so you don't have to worry about the battery getting overcharged since the charger will take care of this.
However you need to disconnect the battery when it is fully discharged (when the mains is off) and you have been running on the battery. This is where the cutoff relay comes in. If you over discharge a SLA battery you will kill it in no time.
 
So I'm looking at the Sherlo Tronics 3.2 A power supply with battery cutoff that some guys in the thread are using. Link: http://www.sherlotronics.co.za/power-supply-12vdc-3-2a/

Main concern is that my Wifi AP, a TP-Link Archer C9 (I'm not using the router-part), has a 12V, 3.3A PSU by itself, and combining that with a Raspberry Pi (5V, 2.5A) and my fibre ONT (12V, 1.5A) and my Mikrotik router (12V, 1A) might just blow the fuse if everything decides to draw full current simultaneously.

The second worry is that the 7AH battery might not last long enough to prevent a too-deep discharge. Can you hook two batteries in parallel to provide more battery power?

Sherlo sells a bigger model which is 6A and uses an 18AH battery, but what sucks with that one is that it provides 6 CCTV power supplies of 1A each. So yes, 6A overall, but 1A per channel is pretty useless.
 
So I'm looking at the Sherlo Tronics 3.2 A power supply with battery cutoff that some guys in the thread are using. Link: http://www.sherlotronics.co.za/power-supply-12vdc-3-2a/

Main concern is that my Wifi AP, a TP-Link Archer C9 (I'm not using the router-part), has a 12V, 3.3A PSU by itself, and combining that with a Raspberry Pi (5V, 2.5A) and my fibre ONT (12V, 1.5A) and my Mikrotik router (12V, 1A) might just blow the fuse if everything decides to draw full current simultaneously.

The second worry is that the 7AH battery might not last long enough to prevent a too-deep discharge. Can you hook two batteries in parallel to provide more battery power?

Sherlo sells a bigger model which is 6A and uses an 18AH battery, but what sucks with that one is that it provides 6 CCTV power supplies of 1A each. So yes, 6A overall, but 1A per channel is pretty useless.
yes 2 batteries in parallel is fine so long as they are both fully charged, same size amp ratings and keep your cables as short as possible.
Try and ensure each battery cable is the same length.

Just remember the charger will run for much longer once you have ESKOM again and thus run hot for a long time. So be careful.
 
Yes I can provide the bigger battery option (18Ah) with external battery.
I think this would be a better option.
With that we'll be ok with the router, Wi-Fi & RP (I will provide a converter to 5V for the RP)
I would like to have the cameras on a separate system..
 
So I'm looking at the Sherlo Tronics 3.2 A power supply with battery cutoff that some guys in the thread are using. Link: http://www.sherlotronics.co.za/power-supply-12vdc-3-2a/

Main concern is that my Wifi AP, a TP-Link Archer C9 (I'm not using the router-part), has a 12V, 3.3A PSU by itself, and combining that with a Raspberry Pi (5V, 2.5A) and my fibre ONT (12V, 1.5A) and my Mikrotik router (12V, 1A) might just blow the fuse if everything decides to draw full current simultaneously.

The second worry is that the 7AH battery might not last long enough to prevent a too-deep discharge. Can you hook two batteries in parallel to provide more battery power?

Sherlo sells a bigger model which is 6A and uses an 18AH battery, but what sucks with that one is that it provides 6 CCTV power supplies of 1A each. So yes, 6A overall, but 1A per channel is pretty useless.
You simply connect the feeds in parallel to provide sufficient current.
There are more similar power supplies with battery backup around with even larger current ratings.

You can measure the actual device power consumption at 12V, then decide on the make and model that is suitable and then connect the supplies in parallel to make up enough for each device.

Assuming in your example, that the router indeed draws 3.3A, that would mean 4 of the outputs used in parallel for that device would be required, leaving two more for the other devices. As it is unlikely that ALL these devices are co-located anyway, more than one power supply will be required anyway. The only thing you need to be careful of is that you make sure the connections are correct, all positives and all negatives connected in parallel.
At least all the devices are 12V!.
 
how resilient are these 3.2A PSU + batteries?

It was working great for the first couple of days of the new load shedding (OTN + Router), but for the last 2 days, it is lasting about 5 minutes.

When there is mains power, the LED is green.
When mains is off, it goes orange for a couple of minutes, then red, then flashing red, and then off.
 
how resilient are these 3.2A PSU + batteries?

It was working great for the first couple of days of the new load shedding (OTN + Router), but for the last 2 days, it is lasting about 5 minutes.

When there is mains power, the LED is green.
When mains is off, it goes orange for a couple of minutes, then red, then flashing red, and then off.

Sounds like your battery might be dead?
 
how resilient are these 3.2A PSU + batteries?

It was working great for the first couple of days of the new load shedding (OTN + Router), but for the last 2 days, it is lasting about 5 minutes.

When there is mains power, the LED is green.
When mains is off, it goes orange for a couple of minutes, then red, then flashing red, and then off.
The systems require time to recharge the batteries! What you should be doing is realising life under load shedding is NOT normal and that you can't continue as if nothing is happening.

The same is happening to alarm systems and gate motors. The batteries are being discharged below 20% DoD and then the batteries take even longer to recover if they recover at all. I have reset my gate motors to cut out sooner than the normal 10.7 Volt limit and, I switch over to manual operation. Similarly for alarms systems. I switch off mine completely if we are at home as soon as LS kicks in to save the batteries for when really required.
Doubling up on the batteries may or may not help, PROVIDED there is sufficient recharge time between LS events, which there is not at the moment.

Unfortunately, if LS gets any worse the ONLY viable solution is to rewire your home with an emergency circuit for critical items and a generator if you are that desparate. Both these options are costly solutions.
 
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who said anything about normal?

what is sufficient charging time? is it not possible for the PSU to take a battery from say 50% to charged in 8-10 hours?


I have put the battery on my Optimate to see what it says about the battery's health
 
Once you are reasonably sure the attery is fully charged (Volage across the battery should be above 12.7 Volts), (13. 8 to about 14.2 V in the systems mentioned above) monitor battery voltage the next LS event continuously, and see when your systems fail, what the voltage is. In any event, allowing the battery voltage to drop below 10.7 V is a very bad idea. ( this is a very rough check, but a pretty good indicator).
The only way to now for sure is you must know what the battery charger capacity is to know how long it will tek to recharge a battery from 50% DoD to full.
 
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Mmm, then I wonder if those "mini UPS" devices that work from a Li-ion battery isn't a better deal. At least Li-ion can handle a larger DOD.

They are definitely more expensive but I have one for my kid's baby monitor and they seem to work well.
 
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