Router Battery Backup

does the red+black wire that goes from the battery charger to theinverter come with the battery charger, and is that a normal 2 prong black plug on the other side of the inverter? can this run a router and fibre for 2.5
The red and black wire is for the inverter - it plugs into a cigarette style socket. The two prong is just a short extension cord. It runs my VDSL router with wifi for several hours.
 
Just want to confirm with those who know before I buy...

What would be the cheap alternative to the following:

Max 60W power supply X 4h max [planning only CPE/Router/Raspberry Pi+sensors so maybe this estimate is overkill]
60AH battery
5-10A charger

https://www.sustainable.co.za/omnipower-opr60-60ah-12v-agm-battery.html
https://www.sustainable.co.za/victron-blue-smart-ip65-charger-12v-10a-dc-connector.html


That will set you back ~R5000. and with a current draw of 1amp will ensure you have it running for 45-55 hours with the 60ah battery ;)

The solution I mentioned earlier will cost you ~R500 and should be sufficient to keep you running for 4-5 hours (with the RPi connected)
The Pi will run at 5V, you'll need to get one of those 2.5-3Amp Car cigarette chargers connected to the system. See the link I posted earlier in this post.
 
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ok iceman, i will get the 12v7ah battery and the communica 12vdec on monday, plus a multimeter i will borrow, im not quite sure of the following :
the fibre box has its own power supply and the router has its own power supply, so i will need to have both connected to the powerbox I'm building, so how do you connect both at same time to the power box? what else do i need.
also confusing is the fact that the fibre box says 12v 0.5a but the mikrotik router box says dc10-28v (what does the last one mean? and is it still suitable for both these boxes to plug somehow at the same time into the powerbox im going to try and make)

I connected both the fibre box power leads on top of (parallel), to wifi router's two wires and screwed them onto the terminals. You could even add more devices if required!. Just keep the polarity (positive and negative wire) correct.

Don't worry about the current rating (0.5amp), the important part is the volts. The mikrotik router accepts any supply from 10 to 28v. So 12V is perfectly in range.

The reason I like this setup is that the battery is maintained via the builtin charger's 'trickle' charge'. Some of the cheap Midas chargers don't have this functionality and will overcharge the battery resulting in diminished life and power output if left connected permanently. This setup is plug in and forget. No manually pluging stuff in everytime there's a power outage. No batteries to manually charge.

You are welcome to bring the items to me if you need assistance with the wiring. I'm based in Bellville. #Payitforward.
(Just send me a PM.)
 
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I connected both the fibre box power leads on top of (parallel), to wifi router's two wires and screwed them onto the terminals. You could even add more devices if required!. Just keep the polarity (positive and negative wire) correct.

Don't worry about the current rating (0.5amp), the important part is the volts. The mikrotik router accepts any supply from 10 to 28v. So 12V is perfectly in range.

The reason I like this setup is that the battery is maintained via the builtin charger's 'trickle' charge'. Some of the cheap Midas chargers don't have this functionality and will overcharge the battery resulting in diminished life and power output if left connected permanently. This setup is plug in and forget. No manually pluging stuff in everytime there's a power outage. No batteries to manually charge.

You are welcome to bring the items to me if you need assistance with the wiring. I'm based in Bellville. #Payitforward.
(Just send me a PM.)

Could you show us a pic of your setup please.
 
That will set you back ~R5000. and with a current draw of 1amp will ensure you have it running for 45-55 hours with the 60ah battery ;)

The solution I mentioned earlier will cost you ~R500 and should be sufficient to keep you running for 4-5 hours (with the RPi connected)
The Pi will run at 5V, you'll need to get one of those 2.5-3Amp Car cigarette chargers connected to the system. See the link I posted earlier in this post.

Best solution. I was looking at the same setup but was going to build it manually with a 12v charger connected to a dc to dc step down connected to the battery to keep it charged. Then a backup battery switch module that will switch to battery once the 12v charger goes off. Would work but complicated to setup and have to get parts all over.

Your solution has a box already for the battery and everything. I like that solution more and Samrand is like 7km from me so I can just pick it up. ;)
 
Could you show us a pic of your setup please.

Sure, I pulled off the front cover.
The top thick white wire(at the top of the box) is plugged into the wall (220V).
At the bottom is where you connect your devices that runs of 12V. ( Routers , Fibre CPE, Raspberry Pi, Media centres etc.)
I connected two devices on the 'ouput' screw terminal : The red and black wire goes to my Wifi router. The white flex wire is where I cut the power adaptor for my Fibre CPE (Raycore). The wire runs to the right and is plugged in to the Fibre device in the background.

In case you're wondering the other screw terminal at the bottom labelled as M/FAIL is provided if you wanted to wire an extra LED to indicate if the Mains power went off.



file.jpeg
 
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Sure, I pulled off the front cover.
The top thick white wire(at the top of the box) is plugged into the wall (220V).
At the bottom is where you connect your devices that runs of 12V. ( Routers , Fibre CPE, Raspberry Pi, Media centres etc.)
I connected two devices on the 'ouput' screw terminal : The red and black wire goes to my Wifi router. The white flex wire is where I cut the transformer for my Fibre CPE (Raycore). The wire runs to the right and is plugged in to the Fibre device in the background.

In case you're wondering the other screw terminal at the bottom labelled as M/FAIL is provided if you wanted to wire an extra LED to indicate if the Mains power went off.



View attachment 620750

Does the Raycore fibre CPE Use 12v? Kinda confused as you mention a transformer.

Thank you for the picture.
 
Does the Raycore fibre CPE Use 12v? Kinda confused as you mention a transformer.

Thank you for the picture.

Hmm it in retrospect, 'Transformer wasn't the best description. I've edited and changed it to: "power adapter".

It's that little box that you plug into the wall and the other end into the router or CPE to power it. (you got one with the router or CPE). It is rated at 12V yes.
 
@IcemanMike

http://www.communica.co.za/catalog/Details/P0717523099
https://shop.communica.co.za/products/psu-cctv-12vdc-3a

Exact same one you are using. R395.02 incl which is not a bad price. I also got me the battery from them and 4x dc input plugs.


The also have the DC to DC stepdown buck for those that have routers that are less than 12V input. R55 which is very cheap.
http://www.communica.co.za/Catalog/Details/P3841571758
Would one of these do the job? https://www.regalsecurity.co.za/pro...ply-access-control-12vdc-3-amp-power-store-2/)

Edit: updated link to 12v product
 
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It should. Looks the same as the one suggested except it's in a metal casing.
Thanks. I get that the 12v psu is more efficient than a UPS, although I'm wondering if there is a battery longevity component to consider too. If I understand correctly the battery in a UPS is basically dormant until the power cuts out at which point the UPS switches to providing power from the battery while inn the psu setup the battery is always being used. Would the battery in the UPS last longer before requiring replacement?
 
Better to power the ont/router from the battery and have it charge again when the power comes on.
 
What I have is a battery with a smart charger that permanently charges the battery.
I connect the Ont/router to the battery.
I had a spare 25ah battery that will run my stuff for 12 hours or so.
 
Thanks. I get that the 12v psu is more efficient than a UPS, although I'm wondering if there is a battery longevity component to consider too. If I understand correctly the battery in a UPS is basically dormant until the power cuts out at which point the UPS switches to providing power from the battery while inn the psu setup the battery is always being used. Would the battery in the UPS last longer before requiring replacement?

Maybe some other people that has got more knowledge than me but as far as I know No the battery is not always being used. In these setups that are suggested they work exactly like a UPS except they are 12V all round. With the UPS you have a 12V battery connected to an inverter taking it to 220V AC then when you plug your router power supply in it takes it from 220V AC to 12V DC again. That up and down causes a lot of power to get lost very inefficient way to power a 12V appliance. It would be ideal for running appliances that require 220V AC input.

The battery setup has a trickle charger which keeps the battery charged. Once fully charged it stops charging the battery. While the whole device is powered on from the 220V AC input the routers are powered by the power supply/charger all the time. It only switches over once the 220V power is lost so essentially it's exactly the same as a UPS.
 
What I have is a battery with a smart charger that permanently charges the battery.
I connect the Ont/router to the battery.
I had a spare 25ah battery that will run my stuff for 12 hours or so.

The smart charger connected to the battery on it's own will work fine but I think once you connect the routers and ONT the constant power they draw will trick the smart charger in thinking the battery is not full and keep on pushing current to it. It will probably get over charged. For this reason you need some kind of relay that will cut power to the battery when it's full.

I stand to be corrected though.
 
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