Router Battery Backup

No I think I need 20V/5A to get 90-100W (sorry, cant remember the exact calcs).

Anyways, this small and portable power bank powers my notebook 2-4 hours supplying 90W, and then I still have the laptop battery left as it keeps it fully charged while working on it:

ZMI PowerPack No20 - 25000mAh/2xUSB-C/1x USB-A/210W PD Power Bank

View attachment 1181272
Finding a DC-DC connector that is compatible with a person's particular laptop is a pain. Tried to find an HP one which was available on takealot and had to send it back as what was shipped wasn't an HP connector.
 
Finding a DC-DC connector that is compatible with a person's particular laptop is a pain. Tried to find an HP one which was available on takealot and had to send it back as what was shipped wasn't an HP connector.
Laptop power and charging is not always that simple. @DA-LION-619 and I had a discussion on this somewhere, although it was for a Dell machine, it can also be applicable to others. With Dell it is just so much more complicated as they have a proprietary thing going to supply 130W via USB C. Non Dell adaptors are limited to 90W only, assuming the adaptor deliver that much. Some older Dell devices are capped at 65W max. Also in general if a laptop does not get enough power to charge and use it at the same time, the battery will still drain.
 
Bluetti who also make portable "power stations" claim that while you can use their device while it's charging it will shorten the Lithium ion battery life. So they don't recommend it.
 
Bluetti who also make portable "power stations" claim that while you can use their device while it's charging it will shorten the Lithium ion battery life. So they don't recommend it.
How does that work? I love it when manufacturers recommend things but don't tell you the reasons why.
 
Some more alternatives for when the power bank/stations DC requirements
can't be matched and AC will have to do.


 
Some more alternatives for when the power bank/stations DC requirements
can't be matched and AC will have to do.




These devices look to be pretty pricey, pure sine wave and whatnot..
peak power, storage capacity, mixture of output options,etc...

 
Some more alternatives for when the power bank/stations DC requirements
can't be matched and AC will have to do.


I wish they stop with the Ah rating and just show the Wh which actually means something. Without knowing the voltage the Ah rating is useless.
 
I wish they stop with the Ah rating and just show the Wh which actually means something. Without knowing the voltage the Ah rating is useless.

if the unit can output different voltages it makes sense to stick with the standard of Ah

  • • Total USB Output: 45W
  • • Type-C Output: DC 20V-2.25A / 15V-3A / 12V-3A / 9V-3A / 5V-3A
  • • USB-A1/A2/A3 Output: DC 12V-1.5A / 9V-2A / 5V-2.4A
  • • Inverter AC Output: 220V~50Hz 150W
  • • Independent AC power output switch
  • • Output Interface: 3 x USB, 1 x US-C, 1 x AC Output
 
I pinged ellies themselves and here is the reply:
View attachment 1181566So it look by all accounts a half decent box.
On the Ellies Cube Nova on Geewiz...

I am pretty sure that the Geewiz description is because of the experience that I had. I bought the unit from Geewiz, tried to use it, followed all the instructions, but it kept inexplicably dying in the middle of the night. Eventually I setup a camera to catch when it died.

Geewiz were really good; they asked questions which I answered, reached out to the supplier, and the supplier provided feedback that it couldn't work as a UPS. They then advised that they had updated the site.
 
if the unit can output different voltages it makes sense to stick with the standard of Ah

  • • Total USB Output: 45W
  • • Type-C Output: DC 20V-2.25A / 15V-3A / 12V-3A / 9V-3A / 5V-3A
  • • USB-A1/A2/A3 Output: DC 12V-1.5A / 9V-2A / 5V-2.4A
  • • Inverter AC Output: 220V~50Hz 150W
  • • Independent AC power output switch
  • • Output Interface: 3 x USB, 1 x US-C, 1 x AC Output
I'm talking about the internal battery voltage. Lets assume the voltage is 3.6V and the Ah is 40 therefore the pack will have a CAPACITY to deliver (3.6x40) 144Wh.

Now you know how long it will last with the various devices you will use in that list of yours.

But we don't know what battery its using, it could be 12V for all we know @ 40Ah in which case it then have a CAPACITY of 480Wh
 
I'm talking about the internal battery voltage. Lets assume the voltage is 3.6V and the Ah is 40 therefore the pack will have a CAPACITY to deliver (3.6x40) 144Wh.

Now you know how long it will last with the various devices you will use in that list of yours.

But we don't know what battery its using, it could be 12V for all we know @ 40Ah in which case it then have a CAPACITY of 480Wh

explain the calulcation then to get to my potential Wh? i.e if i were to then use the 9V output? Ah seems simpler
 
On the Ellies Cube Nova on Geewiz...

I am pretty sure that the Geewiz description is because of the experience that I had. I bought the unit from Geewiz, tried to use it, followed all the instructions, but it kept inexplicably dying in the middle of the night. Eventually I setup a camera to catch when it died.

Geewiz were really good; they asked questions which I answered, reached out to the supplier, and the supplier provided feedback that it couldn't work as a UPS. They then advised that they had updated the site.
Do you have a copy of that to post? You can anon the names.
 
explain the calulcation then to get to my potential Wh? i.e if i were to then use the 9V output? Ah seems simpler
V x A = W

A watt is a watt and is a unit of power. If a device uses 10W @ 19V or 10W at 9V it's still 10W. The 19V will use less amps than the 9V that's all. Using the above 144Wh capacity, both will last 14.4 hours.

10W/19V=0.52A
10W/9V=1.11A

So, the Ah is only half the story, we need to know the voltage (of the battery supplying the amps) aswell. If they just tell us the Wh instead, then that is the whole story, the end.
 
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Anyone run 24v Ubiquiti devices connected directly to 2x 12v batteries? My Mikrotik router, switch, and ONT is connected to a single 12v 33Ah gel battery that gets charged via a 100w panel. I'm thinking of adding a second battery and another panel, so I can power my two tough switches at the other end of the house on 24v, however, I assume the voltage while charging will be over 27v, and the input voltage for the switches are 22-24v 2.5A...

What will be the best way to regulate the voltage from the batteries to 24v? I'm sure I could just wire in a fuse, resistor, and a zener diode to do the job?
 
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