MyBB Motorcycle Owners Thread

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It's amazing how I haven't needed ABS since getting it.

Largely because my personal responsibility and rising style have changed drastically since getting back on.

Much like I haven't had a puncture since getting a repair kit.

I'll never again go without the ABS.
 
Just to give you an idea of seat heights... the shape also comes into play, and you can get shaved-down seats:

At 1.68m, without boots the NC750X seat at 830mm requires me to stand on one toe.
The CBR500 seat at 784mm lets me easily flat foot.
To me that helps a lot with the comfort.

How do shaved seats work? Is it a DIY jobbie or do you get someone to do it for you? It obliviously impacts comfort right (less padding/foam)?

Go do the training first. After that see if you are still keen. Then you've only waste a couple of rands instead of tens of thousands.

Best is to measure the bike. Go sit on one and see if you can flat foot it.

NC might be a bit tell.

Next best bet is the Kawasaki ER6 series.

Flat footing isn't a requirement but does put new riders at ease and generally better to start there.

Otherwise there is the new BMW G310 on the way, but I'm still not convinced my these small motors.

The baby 650GS also isn't a bad option.

Can one go to training without owning a bike? How does it work? You borrow the training schools bike? How long does training generally take and what does it cost?

If you have slow to still standing traffic, look at a scooter.
It your traffic is faster than 60km/h ... then rather a bike.

Scooter is good for up to 80km/h ... after that, they are to sluggish.

I would definitely rather get a bike over a scooter, want to at least be able to go on the N2 to Khayelitsha/Somerset West and N1 to Monte Vista/Bellville. Also if I use it as a daily commute I would take De Waal Drive...

Honda nc750. That seems to be the best commuter around.

Wouldn't a 750cc or 500cc be a bit much for a first timer? I was thinking of maybe a 250cc or will that be too 'pap' for the highways?

my 2 cents - if you are around 80kg and less, get yourself a nice 2nd hand CBX Twister 250cc (2008 around R15k) - very nice bike, runs forever and you could easily get up to around 120km/h - 140km/h if needed. The best part about it, is once you are confident with your riding ability and decide to upgrade, you could still sell the twister for around the price that you paid - your gear will probably cost you about the same as the Twister, but buy wise not cheap and you find that if you ever move to a bigger bike, you wont need to shell out for gear again

I would definitely go for second hand, not new. I am less than 80kg :o (need to put on some weight :p)
Are most motor bikes manual or do you get automatic ones too? Is manual preferred or does it come down to personal preference like with cars?

One other thing, I have a Cochlear Implant, which doesn't seem to fit well when I'm wearing a helmet and loses connection with my implant so when wearing a helmet I would be 100% deaf, would this be a major safety issue?
 
How do shaved seats work? Is it a DIY jobbie or do you get someone to do it for you? It obliviously impacts comfort right (less padding/foam)?

A professional basically cuts/shaves the foam out to make it flatter or thinner.

Yes it removes comfort but for many it's a case of rising said bike or not.

Another option is dropping the forks and changing the rear spring but that's always a massive compromise on handling.


Can one go to training without owning a bike? How does it work? You borrow the training schools bike? How long does training generally take and what does it cost?

Yes most beginner schools give bikes.

Anything from a backyard mechanic style setup for R500 for 5 hours to the BMW 2-day course which is a grand a day I think. Ask Sinbad he did it recently.

Wouldn't a 750cc or 500cc be a bit much for a first timer? I was thinking of maybe a 250cc or will that be too 'pap' for the highways?

Cc is not a CC is not a cc.

Vast difference between a 85-100kw 600cc-class inline four Japanese superbike or Triple and a Parallel Twin 650-750cc with half the power and more torque.

A 250cc is way too little in modern 4-stroke terms for the highway. It will do 120km/h at absolute full tilt.

These modern 390cc class bikes are a better option but I still reckon a 650-750cc Parallel Twin second hand will be a better deal than a 390cc new.

If money is the concern then a second hand 390 class is probably not a bad deal.


I would definitely go for second hand, not new. I am less than 80kg :o (need to put on some weight :p)
Are most motor bikes manual or do you get automatic ones too? Is manual preferred or does it come down to personal preference like with cars?

Scooters are mostly automatic. The only proper automatic bike right now available locally is the Honda NC700/750 DCT. It's technically a manual with an electronic clutch but works the same. Yamaha have an automatic FJR1300 but not sure if you get it here and not what you are looking for anyway.

So manual is really the norm.

There are also the quickshifters on bigger more expensive bikes. Still have a clutch to pull away but can shift up and down without it after that. It's my preferred middle ground option for "automatic".

One other thing, I have a Cochlear Implant, which doesn't seem to fit well when I'm wearing a helmet and loses connection with my implant so when wearing a helmet I would be 100% deaf, would this be a major safety issue?

Not really. Over 80km/h you can't hear jack **** anyway due to wind noise and should be wearing ear plugs anyway.
 
Well, my 250cc can pull a 145kmh on level, and hit 175 on red line going down Tygerberg hill going to Cape Town.... Really not a bad option to get your feet wet...
 
Thanks for the insight. It seems it can get really complicated when you start examining the details specs. Guess it's like with anything really (pc's, cpu's, DSLR's, etc).

Any thoughts on something like the Honda crf250r/crf250, the Yamaha yz 250, Kawasaki kxf 250? They all seem to go for R25 000 and less...

Or is it ill advised to use an off-road bike for commuting/road driving?
 
Thanks for the insight. It seems it can get really complicated when you start examining the details specs. Guess it's like with anything really (pc's, cpu's, DSLR's, etc).

Any thoughts on something like the Honda crf250r/crf250, the Yamaha yz 250, Kawasaki kxf 250? They all seem to go for R25 000 and less...

Or is it ill advised to use an off-road bike for commuting/road driving?
There seems to be quite a few of these dual sports bikes around, so I assume it's OK. Personal preferences I guess. Have you considered a naked bike, 250cc? Honda Twister, there's that new SYM Wolf bike, apparently extremely good
 
Well, my 250cc can pull a 145kmh on level, and hit 175 on red line going down Tygerberg hill going to Cape Town.... Really not a bad option to get your feet wet...

Yes, but those are peaks.

But when you are doing 120km/h and open the gas to pull a quick move away from something does much of anything at all happen?

What it's ability to "cruise" at 120 like? And how long does it take to get there?

But sure the feet wetting is exactly the problem. You'll want to buy a new bike within a year and will definitely buy one within two.
 
Thanks for the insight. It seems it can get really complicated when you start examining the details specs. Guess it's like with anything really (pc's, cpu's, DSLR's, etc).

Any thoughts on something like the Honda crf250r/crf250, the Yamaha yz 250, Kawasaki kxf 250? They all seem to go for R25 000 and less...

Or is it ill advised to use an off-road bike for commuting/road driving?

With road tires on it won't be a problem.

With knoblies and the distance you want to do it will cost you a fortune in tyres and it won't handle very well.

Also they are aerodynamically disadvantages and downright unstable at highway speeds.

That being said you can ride ANYTHING anywhere if you put your mind to it.

There are just better tools for specific jobs.

Also conversely to what you might think the Honda NC700/750 is one of the lightest bikes on fuel you can get using less than 3.5l/100.
 
Yes, but those are peaks.

But when you are doing 120km/h and open the gas to pull a quick move away from something does much of anything at all happen?

What it's ability to "cruise" at 120 like?

But sure the feet wetting is exactly the problem. You'll want to buy a new bike within a year and will definitely buy one within two.
To be honest, you could fall pregnant whike waiting for a miracle at 120kmh... They are city bikes, so at 120,you at the top end of the midrange rpm, where all the power is... Anything about 8000rpm is a bit of a waste of fuel on the 250cc bikes...

Fully agreed on the progression from the 250cc, I felt the need to upgrade 2 months after getting the bike. Maybe I just acclimatized too fast....
 
He he.

See that's the thing.

If you aren't doing long stretches of highway then the 250cc class is perfect.

As you say they are city bikes and purely for that purpose they are perfect.

But it's as good a place as any to start, but I like to recommend the longer game to people starting out when I can.

There's a different "right" bike for every person/purpose.

Jeez if I lived within 10km from work I would buy a scooter...maybe even an electric one.
 
Thanks for the insight. It seems it can get really complicated when you start examining the details specs. Guess it's like with anything really (pc's, cpu's, DSLR's, etc).

Any thoughts on something like the Honda crf250r/crf250, the Yamaha yz 250, Kawasaki kxf 250? They all seem to go for R25 000 and less...

Or is it ill advised to use an off-road bike for commuting/road driving?
I love em. XT250 being the dual sport I really want.

You can always look at the Z300 ...road bike and better looking than the ninja

/ducks
 
So looks like I've pulled the trigger on a KTM 1050 :) hopefully should have it by Wednesday!
 
Should I buy and fit a centre stand, or just get a wheel stand thing? For servicing, chain lube etc.
 
Should I buy and fit a centre stand, or just get a wheel stand thing? For servicing, chain lube etc.

i have seen different techniques:
Paddock stands (but you would need on for the front and and one for the back)
lift - but if you have the luxury of securing two ring-type rawl bolts to the floor of your garage, then at least you can secure the bike while it is on the lift - cheapest that I have seen is R799 @bike tyre warehouse in midrand
you can also secure hooks to steel beams and then be able to lift the bike off the ground - I have seen this in the tyre-fitment centres (almost like a block and tackle)
 
Should I buy and fit a centre stand, or just get a wheel stand thing? For servicing, chain lube etc.

If it doesn't have a factory option then I would say hell no.

If it does have a factory option then it's really a matter of cost.

You don't need either to do basics and chain lube.
 
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