Router Battery Backup

Both ap's are powered from a central point next to router and oNT. But I've got those covered. Just need solution to power the AP's. Let me check the ultralan UPs out. Do u have a link?

The Micro UPS offers various voltages on it's PoE output port to power any of your devices. A selectable toggle can switch between 15V, 24V, or 48V
 
Hi All. Not sure if this is the right thread. What is the simplest way to power 2 x unifi access points that powered with poe injectors.

I have a gizzu to power a Nokia ont and rb4011.
Again this question - do the APs have a NON-PoE plug / input? If so, wire that directly from the Gizzu or whatever, since it'll probably want 12V or less. (You may need a buck converter to adjust the voltage if it's not an exact match to your output ports, i.e. 12V, 5V etc.)

Yes it's a bit of effort and extra cost but still way cheaper than buying more UPS's especially since you probably don't need the extra power anyway.
 

UltraLAN Micro UPS (DC & PoE) - 60W 17.6AH​

I picked up this one for a bargain on Takealot last week.
Only gripe is that bright LCD screen. It is in an are close to the bedroom, so I have to turn it for the screen to shine into the cabinet, and not light up the whole room
 
Again this question - do the APs have a NON-PoE plug / input? If so, wire that directly from the Gizzu or whatever, since it'll probably want 12V or less. (You may need a buck converter to adjust the voltage if it's not an exact match to your output ports, i.e. 12V, 5V etc.)

Yes it's a bit of effort and extra cost but still way cheaper than buying more UPS's especially since you probably don't need the extra power anyway.
No they dont as far as I am aware - the unifi AC-LR & NanoHD from Ubiquiti. the one AP requires 24v and the other 48v.

I have since read up that my router (mikrotik rb4011) has POE output on port10 which I am going to test - then if i can power the mikrotik via mini UPS on the Mikrotik (24v) i should be okay for one of the AP's at least..
 
Inside the Omnipower Ratel 860P. Did not do anything just opened it to have a look inside :)

Battery Pack 18650 4S2P. Chinese Cells

Easily add another pack for more runtime. Mounts already there just need to wire it up to exiting pack or make a new 4S4P pack

Inside Guts

Place to add a small 30x30 Fan. Cutouts, mounting and connector already there
One of the reasons I chose the Ratel ... the fact that it uses packed 18650s. Relatively easy to replace should you need to
 
Inside the Omnipower Ratel 860P. Did not do anything just opened it to have a look inside :)

Battery Pack 18650 4S2P. Chinese Cells

Easily add another pack for more runtime. Mounts already there just need to wire it up to exiting pack or make a new 4S4P pack

Inside Guts

Place to add a small 30x30 Fan. Cutouts, mounting and connector already there. (Still need to check voltage)
This is amazing.... adding another set of batteries will mean I can move it fully to solar. With the current capacity, it dies 4 hours before sunrise which meant it lasts 10 hours.

It would also be interesting to know if a fan is needed....
 
This is amazing.... adding another set of batteries will mean I can move it fully to solar. With the current capacity, it dies 4 hours before sunrise which meant it lasts 10 hours.

It would also be interesting to know if a fan is needed....
If anyone is going to attempt this, please DM me. We can share info and work together. I plan to do this in the next month.
 
Just post here lets all partake.
New Thread created as not to derail this thread

 
If anyone is going to attempt this, please DM me. We can share info and work together. I plan to do this in the next month.
I might consider it, if I can get the packed batteries easily.
I have moved from ONT and Mikrotik on the Ratel 860p to ONT, Mikrotik X 2, Deco S4 and security camera ... might need the extra capacity quite soon
 
Again this question - do the APs have a NON-PoE plug / input? If so, wire that directly from the Gizzu or whatever, since it'll probably want 12V or less. (You may need a buck converter to adjust the voltage if it's not an exact match to your output ports, i.e. 12V, 5V etc.)

Yes it's a bit of effort and extra cost but still way cheaper than buying more UPS's especially since you probably don't need the extra power anyway.

Hi when you talk about buck convertor and you speaking about these type units..will check the forum if there are any threads

 
Hi when you talk about buck convertor and you speaking about these type units..will check the forum if there are any threads

NO that's more of a power supply.

This, but a less fancy version with no display and smaller and cheaper. Altho under 50 bucks ain't bad:
(They don't seem to have stock of the basic versions that just do voltage step-down which you adjust with a multimeter).

 
NO that's more of a power supply.

This, but a less fancy version with no display and smaller and cheaper. Altho under 50 bucks ain't bad:
(They don't seem to have stock of the basic versions that just do voltage step-down which you adjust with a multimeter).

thanks so based on what im reading these step down voltage and as per specs:

Input Voltage : DC 4~40V(the input voltage should be higher than output voltage at least 1V)

should i not be using something that steps the voltage up?
 
thanks so based on what im reading these step down voltage and as per specs:

Input Voltage : DC 4~40V(the input voltage should be higher than output voltage at least 1V)

should i not be using something that steps the voltage up?
unlikely but depends on your devices. If you're connecting to a battery backup system it's definitely outputting 12V. It may also have other outputs, like 5V etc.
Chances are you're gonna need somewhere between 5 and 12, so you need to check what the input voltage is on your device.
Don't worry about the current, most AP's and routers are like 1 Amp or less.

So, for example, one of my devices (AP?) ran 7volts 1Amp I think. So I connected the buck converter to a 12V output, then adjusted the voltage to 7V. Then add a 'barrel plug' (DC Jack) to the output end of the converter and plug that into the device. In the case of an AP, you then need to connect your LAN cable separately.

Of course this assumes you have a DC input as well as a PoE input, which most consumer devices will have but commercial or higher end devices may not support both.
 
Thanks. I have one access point requiring 48v and the other 24v so looking for unit to supply simultaneos differing voltages been crap. Might have to replace one access point. I don't know.

The Ratel 860p has 24VDC output.
I also use a DC-DC buck boost converter to get 48VDC and feed that into a TP-Link PoE injector for my Ubiquiti AC Pro 802.3af AP. Had no issues for the past couple of years with the setup and it's cheaper than replacing access points.

 
The Ratel 860p has 24VDC output.
I also use a DC-DC buck boost converter to get 48VDC and feed that into a TP-Link PoE injector for my Ubiquiti AC Pro 802.3af AP. Had no issues for the past couple of years with the setup and it's cheaper than replacing access points.


thanks! think the ratel seems like it would power the mikrotik router (just need to confirm the amps).
 
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