Router Battery Backup

What would you guys recommend for me to power the following for up to 3hrs at a time.

Huawei ONT - 11–14 V DC, 1 A
Tenda Router - 9V DC 1A Power
Reolink NVR - DC 48V 2A

Thanks you.

EDIT: Sorry forgot to add. NVR

Max. Power Consumption​

25W
 
APoc184 said:
What would you guys recommend for me to power the following for up to 3hrs at a time.

Huawei ONT - 11–14 V DC, 1 A
Tenda Router - 9V DC 1A Power
Reolink NVR - DC 48V 2A

Thanks you.

EDIT: Sorry forgot to add. NVR

Max. Power Consumption​

25W
Click to expand...
You could probably get away with a Ratel for the ONT and router, but the NVR will need something with a bit more juice to run it.

What is your budget? My best bet would probably be an inverter with a 100Ah battery.

For comparison, I run the following off a 600W inverter with a 100Ah battery:

Raspberry Pi 3B+
Ubiquiti Edgerouter X
Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC LR
Calix ONT
HP N40L MicroServer
Epson L4150 printer

It drops to around 75% battery at the 2h45 mark.

On the other side of the house I run a 720W inverter with a 100Ah battery connected to the following:

Hisense 65" LED TV
PS4 Slim
Ematic Android TV Box
LG 100W Soundbar
35W worth of heat lamps and pads for the reptile enclosure
Meraki Gateway

This setup gets me around 1h45 when just watching TV before it drops to 75% battery capacity. When playing on the PS4, it drops to 75% at around the 1h20 mark.

Hope this helps! I used to have a Gizzu but it was a pain having it setup with boost converters for the PoE and buck converters for the Raspberry Pi. The inverter setup just makes it a lot easier IMHO.

EDIT: For anyone wondering why I run two inverters as opposed to one, we are currently in the process of moving house and unable to run wires through the ceiling or in trunking to get the power to where I would like it to be. Once we move, I will most likely look at consolidating and only use one inverter with two batteries, which should also be more efficient
 
Last edited:
PhireSide said:
You could probably get away with a Ratel for the ONT and router, but the NVR will need something with a bit more juice to run it.

What is your budget? My best bet would probably be an inverter with a 100Ah battery.

For comparison, I run the following off a 600W inverter with a 100Ah battery:

Raspberry Pi 3B+
Ubiquiti Edgerouter X
Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC LR
Calix ONT
HP N40L MicroServer
Epson L4150 printer

It drops to around 75% battery at the 2h45 mark.

On the other side of the house I run a 720W inverter with a 100Ah battery connected to the following:

Hisense 65" LED TV
PS4 Slim
Ematic Android TV Box
LG 100W Soundbar
35W worth of heat lamps and pads for the reptile enclosure
Meraki Gateway

This setup gets me around 1h45 when just watching TV before it drops to 75% battery capacity. When playing on the PS4, it drops to 75% at around the 1h20 mark.

Hope this helps! I used to have a Gizzu but it was a pain having it setup with boost converters for the PoE and buck converters for the Raspberry Pi. The inverter setup just makes it a lot easier IMHO.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. Already getting a bit better understanding.

Yeah the NVR really throws a spanner in the works.

I'll be completely honest. Was hoping to spend no more than R2000 on keeping them powered on.

I'll have to start reading up a bit more on the inverters and batteries. If I'm going to do it I might as well do something decent and add some lights, TV and laptop charger to the setup.
 
APoc184 said:
Thanks for the advice. Already getting a bit better understanding.

Yeah the NVR really throws a spanner in the works.

I'll be completely honest. Was hoping to spend no more than R2000 on keeping them powered on.

I'll have to start reading up a bit more on the inverters and batteries. If I'm going to do it I might as well do something decent and add some lights, TV and laptop charger to the setup.
Click to expand...
That Sunsynk Pocket Power thingamabob mentioned earlier in the thread looks to be ideal for your use case but the only one I could find online had a price of around R4500. For that price I'd argue, unless you need the portability, that you can rather add another R1000 or R1500 and get an inverter that can power a bit more than just the 300W that the Sunsynk can offer.
 
ginggs said:
What improvements would you like to make?
You could start with an off-the-shelf Ratel and add more batteries.

It might be too expensive to manufacture the PCBs and assemble here.

This person started thinking along the same lines:



...but concluded the Ratel was actually good value for money:
Click to expand...
The ratel is VERY good value for money, @ginggs we are nerds, you know that. We want more, simply because more is possible so why not?

I am busy studying electronics again, but it will require too much time so whilst I study I would like to pay an electrical engineer to create a PCB for me.

I would then want to create a 3D sketch for a housing unit for it, again, just not enough time to make this work in Fusion 360, and will need the PCB first so looking to pay someone for this part as well.

My questions, do any of you know an electrical engineer that I can speak to?

I want to build a bigger version of the Ratel.

Or maybe through sheer luck, we can come up with a solution between all of us.

This is what I want to achieve:

Always-On / Loadshed Olifant (top-end model)

Input
1 x 12V/24V DC-jack Brick or AC cable and then the rectifier is inside the PCB

Output
2 x 9V 1A DC
2 x 12V 2A DC
1 x 24V 2A DC (mikrotiks, normally 700mA, but 24 volt)
3 x USB 5V 1A DC

  • Lithium-ion cell: 18 X 65 mm Cylindrical
  • Cell Capacity: 2200 mAh
  • Cell(s) in Series: 3
  • Cell(s) in Parallel: 5
  • Circuitry: Safety Circuit / Smart Battery System
  • Battery Voltage: 11.1 V
  • Battery Capacity: 11000 mAh
  • Battery Energy: 122.1 Wh
It needs to draw from AC when AC is available and only draw from them batteries when the AC drops and it should not overcharge the batteries.

Then for the "Loadshed Rooikat"

Input
1 x 12V/24V DC-jack Brick or AC cable and then the rectifier is inside the PCB

Output
3 x 9V 1A DC
1 x 12V 1A DC
4 x USB 5V 1A DC

  • Lithium-ion cell: 18 X 65 mm Cylindrical
  • Cell Capacity: 2200 mAh
  • Cell(s) in Series: 2
  • Cell(s) in Parallel: 5
  • Circuitry: Safety Circuit / Smart Battery System
  • Battery Voltage: 7.4 V
  • Battery Capacity: 11000 mAh
  • Battery Energy: 81.4 Wh
It also needs to draw from AC when AC is available and only draw from them batteries when the AC drops and it should not overcharge the batteries.

My personal requirements:

2 x Mikrotik
1 x Fiber Ont
1 x Tenda Router
2 x Raspberry Pi

The idea being, if whoever asks me what can I get to keep my internet on, forever, whilst eskom is down. I can just send them one of these units.
 
Hello helpful internet strangers

I'm not too clued up about inverters / ups devices / much electrical stuff and need to find out if what I purchased for my purposes is going to do the trick or not.

I need to keep our router and POE powered during loadshedding so I purchased a Mecer 850VA / 480W UPS. The router takes DC 9V - 1A and the POE takes DC 24V - 1A.

My concern is whether or not the UPS will actually keep them on for an entire loadshedding period, and if the constant drain on the UPS will over time kill the battery.

Many thanks!
 
Thor said:
The ratel is VERY good value for money, @ginggs we are nerds, you know that. We want more, simply because more is possible so why not?

I am busy studying electronics again, but it will require too much time so whilst I study I would like to pay an electrical engineer to create a PCB for me.

I would then want to create a 3D sketch for a housing unit for it, again, just not enough time to make this work in Fusion 360, and will need the PCB first so looking to pay someone for this part as well.

My questions, do any of you know an electrical engineer that I can speak to?

I want to build a bigger version of the Ratel.

Or maybe through sheer luck, we can come up with a solution between all of us.

This is what I want to achieve:

Always-On / Loadshed Olifant (top-end model)

Input
1 x 12V/24V DC-jack Brick or AC cable and then the rectifier is inside the PCB

Output
2 x 9V 1A DC
2 x 12V 2A DC
1 x 24V 2A DC (mikrotiks, normally 700mA, but 24 volt)
3 x USB 5V 1A DC

  • Lithium-ion cell: 18 X 65 mm Cylindrical
  • Cell Capacity: 2200 mAh
  • Cell(s) in Series: 3
  • Cell(s) in Parallel: 5
  • Circuitry: Safety Circuit / Smart Battery System
  • Battery Voltage: 11.1 V
  • Battery Capacity: 11000 mAh
  • Battery Energy: 122.1 Wh
It needs to draw from AC when AC is available and only draw from them batteries when the AC drops and it should not overcharge the batteries.

Then for the "Loadshed Rooikat"

Input
1 x 12V/24V DC-jack Brick or AC cable and then the rectifier is inside the PCB

Output
3 x 9V 1A DC
1 x 12V 1A DC
4 x USB 5V 1A DC

  • Lithium-ion cell: 18 X 65 mm Cylindrical
  • Cell Capacity: 2200 mAh
  • Cell(s) in Series: 2
  • Cell(s) in Parallel: 5
  • Circuitry: Safety Circuit / Smart Battery System
  • Battery Voltage: 7.4 V
  • Battery Capacity: 11000 mAh
  • Battery Energy: 81.4 Wh
It also needs to draw from AC when AC is available and only draw from them batteries when the AC drops and it should not overcharge the batteries.

My personal requirements:

2 x Mikrotik
1 x Fiber Ont
1 x Tenda Router
2 x Raspberry Pi

The idea being, if whoever asks me what can I get to keep my internet on, forever, whilst eskom is down. I can just send them one of these units.
Click to expand...
Are the mikrotiks POE? If so, the UltraLan 60W micro ups is pretty much your olifant, but with more battery (and no USB). Maybe you could connect up a 12V powered USB hub?
 
Last edited:
Stroomf said:
I need to keep our router and POE powered during loadshedding so I purchased a Mecer 850VA / 480W UPS. The router takes DC 9V - 1A and the POE takes DC 24V - 1A.

My concern is whether or not the UPS will actually keep them on for an entire loadshedding period,
Click to expand...
Difficult to say, the 850VA / 480W tells us how big a load your UPS can handle, but doesn't tell us for how long.
Stroomf said:
and if the constant drain on the UPS will over time kill the battery.
Click to expand...
Definitely.

That kind of UPS is designed to keep a PC running for a few minutes in order for it to shutdown safely, or for your generator to kick in. It wasn't designed to keep even a small load running for hours.
 
Stroomf said:
Hello helpful internet strangers

I'm not too clued up about inverters / ups devices / much electrical stuff and need to find out if what I purchased for my purposes is going to do the trick or not.

I need to keep our router and POE powered during loadshedding so I purchased a Mecer 850VA / 480W UPS. The router takes DC 9V - 1A and the POE takes DC 24V - 1A.

My concern is whether or not the UPS will actually keep them on for an entire loadshedding period, and if the constant drain on the UPS will over time kill the battery.

Many thanks!
Click to expand...
For that application you're looking for a DC UPS with POE such as some of the Ratel, Gizzu or UltraLan models.
 
Speedster said:
Are the mikrotiks POE? If so, the UltraLan 60W microups is pretty much your olifant, but with more battery (and no USB). Maybe you could connect up a 12V powered USB hub?
Click to expand...
I use one of these for powering my Raspberry Pi-alike (Asus Tinkerboard) off 12V:
www.communica.co.za

DGM DC/DC BUCK MOD 12TO5V MCUSB

DC/DC Convertor 12V TO 5V 3A with Inline Micro USB Plug. not for use on IPHONE, IPOD and Samsung Galaxy S4.
www.communica.co.za www.communica.co.za

Input 12V, output 5V @ 3A.
 
Speedster said:
Are the mikrotiks POE? If so, the UltraLan 60W microups is pretty much your olifant, but with more battery (and no USB). Maybe you could connect up a 12V powered USB hub?
Click to expand...
Not quite.

That has 8 x 2200mA Li-ion Batteries my version has 15 x 2200mA Li-ion Batteries
 
Ah crap - I jumped on this buy because Incredible Connection were sold out of the Gizzu. I figured that since it was more or less the same price that it would handle more or less the same amount. So what are your thoughts - should I return the Mecer and try order a Gizzu?
 
Stroomf said:
Ah crap - I jumped on this buy because Incredible Connection were sold out of the Gizzu. I figured that since it was more or less the same price that it would handle more or less the same amount. So what are your thoughts - should I return the Mecer and try order a Gizzu?
Click to expand...
Yes.
 
ginggs said:
I use one of these for powering my Raspberry Pi-alike (Asus Tinkerboard) off 12V:
www.communica.co.za

DGM DC/DC BUCK MOD 12TO5V MCUSB

DC/DC Convertor 12V TO 5V 3A with Inline Micro USB Plug. not for use on IPHONE, IPOD and Samsung Galaxy S4.
www.communica.co.za www.communica.co.za

Input 12V, output 5V @ 3A.
Click to expand...
Yea so currently I use a BlueNova battery and then a couple of these depending on the device - https://www.communica.co.za/products/bmt-adj-dc-dc-module-3a-4-5-60v

but its not elegant & the battery needs to be recharged each time.
 
Stroomf said:
Ah crap - I jumped on this buy because Incredible Connection were sold out of the Gizzu. I figured that since it was more or less the same price that it would handle more or less the same amount. So what are your thoughts - should I return the Mecer and try order a Gizzu?
Click to expand...
Yes, throwing good money after bad. That UPS has standard lead acid batteries that don't like cycles and is also inverting DC to AC which has a loss factor. Gizzu and co is lithium, and is straight DC so no losses.
 
Thor said:
Not quite.

That has 8 x 2200mA Li-ion Batteries my version has 15 x 2200mA Li-ion Batteries
Click to expand...
Apologies. I compared your 11000mAh with the UltraLan's 17600mAh, but you're calculating yours at a different voltage.
 
Speedster said:
Apologies. I compared your 11000mAh with the UltraLan's 17600mAh, but you're calculating yours at a different voltage.
Click to expand...
Yea -- that is the part where I am still a bit in the dark.

IE on this low voltage devices does the efficiency matter that much, IE; should I rather make the voltage 4.2volt and just boost the fck out of it?
 
Thor said:
Yea -- that is the part where I am still a bit in the dark.

IE on this low voltage devices does the efficiency matter that much, IE; should I rather make the voltage 4.2volt and just boost the fck out of it?
Click to expand...
There a specific reason why you want to build your own one?
 
Speedster said:
There a specific reason why you want to build your own one?
Click to expand...

First sentance

Router Battery Backup

Yes, throwing good money after bad. That UPS has standard lead acid batteries that don't like cycles and is also inverting DC to AC which has a loss factor. Gizzu and co is lithium, and is straight DC so no losses. Many thanks to all who have jumped in to help me. So if I get the Gizzu 8800mah...
mybroadband.co.za mybroadband.co.za
 
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